CHANDRA’S FRILLED DRESS
If you’re following my blogs, you’ll know that
recently I met with some old friends, and after all the superb food, I was also
gifted all of this lovely yarn. The
young lovely daughter of our host immediately dove in on some of this yarn and
said “I love this” – so here’s what I’m making for her
Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used 100 gms of Baby Show cotton yarn knitting yarn ; and and just under 100 gms of Traditional 5 Plus knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; buttons ; sewing needle ; buttons ; wooden buttons
For Indians : You could use Anchor knitting cotton as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made :
Chest : 22” ; Length 24”
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced level
The stitches used are regular ordinary ones –
the combinations used are complicated.
This is not one of the projects that you can do watching T.V .. well,
not for parts of it anyway. But it’s a
beauty, so come along.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Inspired by the photo, here are my pattern notes
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, which is worked like a
square.
Two parts of this square will be
the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of
the yoke.
As usual, here are your choices. You need to
decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you need
to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it for
the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the yoke.
If however, you want only a single button around
the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and
then work in rounds.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start
on our yoke.
However, we will only use that for the first
row, and then we will move off into the pattern for this dress.
The yoke, on this dress, as you will see, has a simple dc section for the front and back of the yoke, and from the 2nd row of the yoke onward, we work a really lovely shelled pattern for the sleeves.
Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off two sides of this yoke, and the other two sides will be worked with a really cute sleeve pattern.
Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest
you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square
yoke) given above.
You will then
calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.
This one is going to be a bit troublesome to write out.. let’s hope we get it right .. of course that said, creativity and tweaks are what make each project individual and exclusive
Part I : Yoke
Start: with fsc as per the chart given above for
square yokes.
The chart also gives the
number of stitches per side.
Please place markers to mark the four corners of
your yoke.
We’re going to work in rows from the centre back
so that there is an opening for the button placket.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st
fsc and each fsc till the 1st corner marker ;
(2 dc in the next fsc
; ch 2, 2 dc in the next fsc) ;
*dc in
the next fsc and each fsc till the next corner marker ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep
*to* 2 times ;
dc in each fsc till the end.
Turn.
Move markers to the ch-2 sp which will be our
new corners.
Now let’s understand where our armholes are
coming in. We started at the centre back, and then came to our 1st
corner.
The section between that 1st
and 2nd corner will form the first armhole section.
The next armhole section is between the 3rd
and last corner.
So obviously, the section between our 2nd
and 3rd markers is the front chest of the dress. Got it?
Here’s also where this gets a little tricky just
for this first row.
1. We’re going to work ch-5 sps for the first part of our shelled pattern. Now as we’re all working with different counts here, I am not going to be able to write this down exactly. I am just going to write down what is written per chart.
This calculation may not work for you.
So what do you do? Well, I suggest that you count the number of dc you have on
each side, and divide it equally such that you have an equal number of ch-5
sps. So what will differ is the number of sts that you sk in between
the ch-5 sps. The more sts between
the ch-5 sps, the less the number of shells .
2. For the front and back sections of the yoke,
(if you look at the pattern / dress made), you will see that we are slowly
increasing it by 1 dc at each end. This means that you must count
each row for front and back sections of the yoke, ensuring that you are
increasing it by 2 sts to get that pattern in.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till the 1st marker ;
(ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in
the next dc) ;
rep (to) till the 2nd marker ;
dc in each dc till the
3rd marker ;
rep (to) once ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Now remember that we’ve got to get that front
and back shape .. and the shaping will only be at the armhole sides.. so at the
end of each row, before you start on the shell pattern, you need to check that
you have got the stitch count increased as needed.
In the following row, please note that the
instructions are general.. and may not suit the number of ch-5 sps you’ve got
exactly.
So just ensure that the first ch-5 sp as well as the last ch-5 sp for
the armhole (i.e the ones that are just after the front yoke and before the
back part and vice-versa) have the 10 dc set on them.
That last ch-5 sp should not be empty
– so if needed, rip back a row, and add a ch-5 sp in so that you get it to the
required number.
Unfortunately, I am unable to figure out a
‘formula’ for this bit – but this is the last hurdle for the sleeve
pattern (fingers crossed)
Row 3 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ;
2 dc in the last dc before
the ch-5 sp ;
(10 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sc in
the next ch-5 sp) ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc along the front of yoke
till the last dc ;
2 dc in that last dc ;
rep (to) once ;
2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in each dc till end.
Before you start on the next row, please place a
marker on that 1st dc and the last dc of the ch-5 sp for each
armhole side.
So you have two markers
that show you the start and end dc for the armhole.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ;
2 dc in the last dc before
the ch-5 sp ;
(10 dc in the next ch-5 sp and in each ch-5 sp for the armhole) ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc along the front of yoke till the last dc ;
2 dc in that last dc ;
rep (to) once ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till
end. Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ;
2 dc in the 1st
marker ;
*(ch 5, sk next 3 dc and 2 ch-1 sps, sc in the
next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 5, sk next 2 dc and sc, sc in the next
ch-1 sp]* ;
rep *to* till the next marker,
2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in each dc
till the next dc and 2 dc in that 3rd marker ;
rep *to* till the
last marker ;
2 dc in that last marker and dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 three times ; adding three ch-5
sps followed by one large shell every two rows - till your yoke is of the
length that you want, ending with a Row 5.
Note : For all
the following Row 5 repeats, ensure that you skip 3 dc and two ch-1 sps, and
also that you have three extra ch-5 sps from the last time you did this repeat
and you’re going the right way.
Now once you’re done with your yoke, I’d suggest
we work in rounds.
For that I’ve joined
the two armholes at the 2 dc sts.
Ensure that this section fits around the chest
of the little child, else you could add
a few stitches around the armhole – as you can see in the original
photograph.
If you are deciding to change colours, please
re-attach new coloured yarn.
I’ve decided to start from the centre back.
Our pattern repeat for the skirt section is 9,
so ensure you have a multiple of 8, or tweak it such that you get a multiple of
9
Skirt instructions :
Part 1 : Belt
We will be working on the other side of the
first start fdc row for the skirt. This
first section is like a belt – and we will get the frilly portion thereafter.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st fdc
; ch 1, sc in the next fdc ;
*sk next 3 fdc, 7 dc in the next fdc ;
sk next 3
fdc , sc in the next fdc ;
ch 1, sc in the next fdc*;
rep *to* all around and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following row, we’ll use a dc 2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Round 2 : dc 2-tog in
the 1stch-1 sp ;
(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to)
once ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in
the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following row, we will work our 7 dc on
top of the centre dc 2-tog set – i.e the 2nd dc 2-tog in this
set of three dc 2-togs.
Round 3 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-2 sp and 7 dc on top of the centre dc 2-tog ;
*sk next dc
2-tog, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, sk next sc and sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc 2-tog and 7 dc on the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sl-st into
the 4th dc [of this 7-dc set] ;
sc in that same dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next
ch-1 sp ;
(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) once*;
rep *to* all
around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-2 sp and 7 dc on top of the centre dc 2-tog ;
*sk next dc
2-tog, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, sk next sc and sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sk next dc 2-tog and 7 dc on the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : Rep Round
2.
There is a flat belt-like portion on the
pattern, but I am not quite sure what it’s doing there.. hmmm.. don’t quite
like it.. so in my creation, I’m going to take that bit off.. and I’m going to
work the frilly portion of the skirt right away.
Part 2 : Frilly skirt portion of the
dress :
Just for convenience, I am going to re-start
numbering for this skirt portion.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6.
Round 1 : Work sc in
the stitches and ch-sps in multiples of 6 all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 : 5 dc in the
1st st ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 st, sc in the next st ;
ch 2, sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ;
(dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the same dc) ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
*ch 3, dc in the
next 2 dc ;
rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ;
(2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same
ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 1, sk next 4 dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep
*to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sl-st into
the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
(3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch
2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ;
*sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; rep
(to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 6 : sl-st into
the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
(3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch
2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ;
*sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following row, we will be in between 2
dc.
Usually we work in / on a st, but in this row, we will work our
trc or treble / triple crochet st between 2 dc.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Round 7 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-2 sp ;
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 5, 2 dc in the same
ch-2 sp) ;
*ch 2, sk next 6 dc, trc in the space between this dc and the next
dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following last round for this frill, we
will do a lovely decorative round of picots. We will use a ch-3 picot.
Our picot is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd
ch from hk)
Round 8 : sc in the 1st
2 dc ;
[(sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times all in the same
ch-5 sp] ;
*sc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next trc, sc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
And as you can see, we’ve finished one beautiful
frilly round for our lovely dress.
For all the next sets of frills, we will follow the same 8 rounds.
We will, however, start our first round under
this set of frills, and the first two rounds of will be ‘hidden’ under this set
of frills.
So go ahead and re-attach your yarn from
under these frills to the stitches of Row 2.
I have therefore attached my yarn from
underneath to that first set of 5 dc.
Part 3 : Attachment of base for the
next set of frills
Remember that our first row is being worked from
under and around the first round of stitches.
So you will be basically using a sl-st to fix this first round of
stitches on, and this will form the base for your second round of frills.
Just so that we don’t get confused with the
earlier Round for the frills, I am going to label these rounds 1a – 4a
Round 1a : sl-st in
the 1st st ;
*ch 2, sl-st in the next sc ;
ch 2, sl-st in the next
5-dc set* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We now have our base secure. Now we will work a row of dc off this base
Round.
Round 2a : dc in the 1st
st ;
*ch 2, dc in the next st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 3a – 7a : Rep
Round 2.
We have now completed the base of the
second row of frills. You can now work
the second set of frills off this base row, using Rounds 2 – 8 of Part 2 – Attachment of frills.
The only
difference (which I am sure I need not even mention, but I’m going to anyway)
is that when we work Round 2 for the next sets, we will just be working on each
of the dc’s – as we already have our ready-made ch-2 sps separating them.. so
one dc will have the 5 dc set, and the next dc will be the sc (of Round
2). Sounds a bit confusing, but once you
start working the next set, you will totally understand what I mean.
OK better
still.. let me just write out that New Round 2 again..
New Round 2 :
5 dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 2, sc
in the next dc ; ch 2, 5 dc in the next
dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
The
following Rounds 3 – 8 are unchanged.
For the third
set of frills, you will first do Part 3, which is the base for the
attachment of frills (i.e Rounds 1a – 7a), followed by the New Round 2 (above)
and then Rounds 3 – 8 from Part 2 – Attachment of frills.
So continue
this repeat for each set of frills till you have the length of dress
needed.
Oh Phew.. I
did tell you at the start that this one was going to be a really wordsy one,
and a little confusing, but yaay we got through it.. and all in all, I’m
fantastically thrilled with the end result. Hope you have lots of fun creating
your little dress too.
Oh just for
kicks (and because I had matching beads), I’ve added beads on that last round
with the picots – but then that’s what creativity is all about.. doing
something just a little bit different. Have fun creating, and remember to tag
me when you’ve made your beautiful dress.
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet
another beautiful dress made for your young lady.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
I should
also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink
beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely
as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a
little fabric. I then sewed in the beads
onto that little fabric top. The base of
the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I
think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?
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