MULTI COLOURED SHELLED TOP
This is a special top for a really special
person. I love that the pattern I’ve
chosen is simple and yet a little complicated. I think this one is going to be
a stunner not just because of the simplicity, but thanks to the lovely yarn
I’ve chosen for this pattern.
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As I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838940998/
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 250 – 275 gms of the stunningly lovely Ice
Batik baby acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.
or Pradhan Mumbai https://www.facebook.com/PradhanEmbroideryStores/?fref=ts
Size : M / 34” bust
Note : While my project has been made for a 34” bust, do read on to see
how you can make this for the size you wish as well.
Skill level : Easy to Intermediate
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Part 1 : Lower part or body of the top
This is a straight simple
pattern. I have divided this into two
parts for convenience.
For Part 1, we
will start our top from the bottom and work our way up to the armhole and
shoulders. We start the top with half
the round measure of the waist or hip, depending on how long you want your
top.
For Part 2, which will be the sleeves
and yoke : We will work this in one continuous motion – so we will
work this one long rectangular ‘strip’ that will be worked from one end to
another – that will be one sleeve, then the yoke and down the second sleeve all
at once.
Got the picture? Let’s pick up
our hooks and get underway.
We start with a plain lower
part for the top and we will work a lovely shelled pattern only for the
continuous sleeves + yoke.
So for the lower part, no
pattern or stitch counts. We will work
it in plain simple dc, hdc or sc, -whatever stitch suits you.
So you will just work half
the measure of the round body (i.e waist or hip) and get started.
While this is not part of the
pattern (or chart), I’ve decided to give an edge for the top and will be
starting with a few rounds of post stitches.
I will write that down here,
but if you do not want to do that, then just ignore the first few rows and work
all plain stitch from the first fsc start row.
Start : with fsc for the
half the round waist / hip measurement.
As I mentioned above, you can
choose whatever stitch you want for the following rounds till you reach the
yoke/armhole level.
I am going to write dc, but
work the stitch of your choice.
The
first few rows are going to be the post stitches, but if you do not want that,
then start with Row 1 below.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st
fsc and in each fsc till end. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till you reach the
yoke / armhole level.
In case you want the post
stitch start then here’s what I’ve done.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Alternate Row 1 : dc in the 1st
fsc ; fpdc in the next fsc and in each fsc till end. Turn.
Alternate Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc ; bpdc in the next dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Alternate Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc in the next dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Rep Alternate Rows 2 & 3
once or 2 times ; then Rep Row 2 till you reach the yoke / armhole level.
The pattern is a really easy
one, so maybe for this, you may want to give a slight shape for the armhole.
What I have done is work
without a change in number of stitches till I was about 3- 4” from the armhole,
and then I added 2 sts per row every alternate row to give a slight
shaping.
That said, I am using a thicker
yarn, so my 3 -4” and my 2 sts per row are probably a lower addition of
stitches than the yarn you’re using. So
basically if you are using a thinner the yarn, and you follow the instructions
above, you will be adding more stitches in the same 3 – 4” that I am.
And how do we add these 2 sts
per row? Elementary my dear Mr. Watson
You start and end every increase
row with 2 dc ; and for every other non-increase row, you work a dc in
each dc all the way end to end.
For all these suggestions and
ideas, I will always maintain that all this works best if you
have a template or a well-fitting garment of the person for whom this is
intended.
So what do we do if this is meant to be a surprise or a gift? Well, if it is for a good friend, well, then go ahead and slip one of her tops out of her room when she isn’t looking.. I’d do that
And if this is just for a
regular order, then you’ll have been told what size they are .. so say a
M/ L/ XL, right? So if you don’t have that size in your home, head on down to the
closest shop and get one for regular size check up. Easy ain’t it?
Part 2 : Yoke &
sleeves
Great! so we’re all done with
the lower part of our top and are now at the armhole / yoke point. As you can see from the pattern, we’re going
to work one long continuous section for this bit.
Our pattern repeat for the
shelled yoke/armhole piece is 15.
So first off, go ahead and
count the number of stitches across and see if that is in multiples of 15. If
it is, then yaay, half your work is done. If not, you have a few calculations
to make.
a) Check your gauge. You
need to check how many stitches make an inch.
b) Calculate the number of stitches you will need per arm
depending on the length of sleeve you are going to make.
So how do you calculate the
number of stitches? Point (a) above was
to check your gauge, which means calculating how many stitches make an inch across. So lets say you have 5 sts making an inch,
and you need 15” for your sleeve length, then you will need a total of (15 x 5
sts) = 75 sts that will make one sleeve length. As we’re working a continuous sleeve, then
you will need (75 x 2) = 150 sts for both sleeve lengths.
These are the 150 sts that you
will add on to the yoke bit, (75 on either side) to make the sleeve +
yoke continuously.
For convenience, I will
re-start numbering for this section.
Please note that all instructions henceforth will refer to the numbering
only in this section.
Note that I will write work a dc in each dc, but I am not sure
what stitch you have used for the lower section of the top earlier. IF you have used a sc or hdc, then you
will work a sc or hdc in each sc or hdc for the body of the top.
Row 1 : Start with chain in
multiples of 15 for the number of stitches that you need for the first sleeve ;
sl-st in the 1st st of the body of the top and work a dc in each dc
till end ; add the same number of chain plus 2* at this end as you have
started with at the other end.
*Note : The plus 2 ch :
When we start our 1st dc, we will work it in the 3rd st
from end, so our 1st 2 ch will make our 1st dc.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
st ;
*(ch 4, sk next 6 sts, dc in
the next st ; ch 5, dc in the next st) ;
ch 4, dc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st
st ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
*sk next dc, 4 dc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, 4 dc in the same ch-5
sp ; sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the
next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, dc in
the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st
st ; ch 2, dc in the same 1st st ;
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the
next ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the
next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc in the same ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last dc ; ch 2, dc in
the same last dc. Turn.
Do you see what we’re doing?
We’re creating the next set of shells in the centre of the earlier set.
So basically it’s the same two pattern
repeat, but just moving it a little. Got it?
Row 5 : dc in the 1st
st ; 4 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4,
sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
(sk next dc, 4 dc in the next
ch-5 sp ; ch 2, 4 dc in the same ch-5 sp)* ;
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp ; 4
dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.
Turn
Row 6 : dc in the 1st
st ;
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the
next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc in the same ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk next 4 dc, dc in the
next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
I am sure you know it, but our
repeat Rows are Rows 3 – 6.
Rep these
four rows till your project reaches the shoulder level.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
We have successfully completed one half of our top.
Repeat all these instructions
for the other side of your top.
Finishing :
Join your two halves along one
side of the sleeve and then join at the shoulder, leaving a large section free
for the neckline.
Our neckline in this
project is a cute boat-like slit.
So
depending on whether you want it to fall off your shoulders or not, work the
shoulder bits… the less you join along the shoulders, the more it will “fall
off”, and become the “off-the-shoulder” you desire.
Join along the lower part of
the sleeves as well, continuing down along the sides of the top to finish it
off neatly.
Weave in and glue down all
ends, before either gifting this or modeling it off yourself.
And can you believe how
beautiful this project is !
You can give yourself a huge
pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a
real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
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