A
SIMPLE SPECTACLE CASE
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I
found a chart for a coin purse on a Pinterest board, which I made, and then
thought that a small tweak in this would probably give me a nice spectacle case... and here are my notes for this
creation.
and the photograph that got me started ...
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : ~ 6.75” x 3.5”
You can make this project to any size to fit any pair of spectacles, using any yarn with a suitable hook
Gauge : 5 sc (across) x 4 sc rows (high) = 1”.
Gauge is not important
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced
Stitches used :
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
How to line your bag : Check this link below
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience, I've added links just above the row we need to use it as well.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
We will start with a fsc row.
We then work till the end of that row, then work
around and along the bottom of our fsc chain.
The following rows will then be worked back
and forth to give it this classic shape and effect.
Our flap will be worked in
at one end as we grow the sides of our little coin purse.
I just changed colors as I went along - but I'm not going to ruin your creativity by telling you when to change.
How cute is this, right? So let’s get
started.
This pattern is worked from the top to the bottom,
along the length of the case.
So, you will start with as many fsc as you want
depending on the length of the case you want.
So, if you decide you want a case that is a
finished length (without including flap) of 6” (which is the approx. length of
my spectacles), then you will be working a total of 12”. Our pattern is a total of 9 rows.
So here are your calculations
Work a swatch and check your gauge. While gauge is not important, you need to know how long and large your bag will turn out.
Work out how many rows you will get for per
inch, and according to that you can work out how many fsc you start with.. or
you just go along with my start stitches, and then figure out how many more /
less you want for your next project
I started with 55 fsc. Turn
(and my fsc chain was just over 10” for the length I needed. You start with as many as you need with the yarn and hook you are using)
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st sc ; and each sc till last fsc ;
3 sc in the last fsc ;
Turn and we’ll work all along the bottom of the fsc
row with 1 sc in each sc till end. Turn
Note :
You may want to place a marker in the last sc (of that 3 sc set at the end of
the fsc row)
So here's a video on how we are going to work around the fsc . The video, however, works on both ends of the fsc row, but in our case here today, we'll only work around one end of fsc, but see the video to see how we're turning around and working under the row as well. In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/DwkKgtGaJMY
Row 2 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked sc ; 3 sc in the next sc ; 2 sc
in the next sc ;
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked st ; 2 sc each in the next 2 sc
;
sc in the next sc ; 2 sc each in the next 3 sc
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 4 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the marked st ;
2 sc in the marked st ; 1 sc in each of the next sc
;
[2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sc in the
next 2 sc ;
rep [to] 3 times
(Move marker to the 2nd sc of this last
sc of the 2 sc set just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 5 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till the one sc before the marked
st ;
ch 1, sk the marked st ; sc in the next sc ;
[ch 1,
sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the sc after the last ch-1 sp just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
We will use a Special hdc 2-tog in this row. For a quick
refresher, check the video links below.
As there is a small change in our stitch, I'm calling it a Special hdc 2-tog here.
We will do this stitch in the same ch-1 sp
each time.
So for our Special hdc 2-tog , we will do the following :
[yo, insert hk in ch-1 sp, yo and pull up a lp] ;
[yo, insert hk in same ch-1 sp, yo and pull up a lp] ; (5 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 5 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
It is a little tricky, but we get this really cute little
plump Special hdc 2-tog stitch that is well worth the little extra concentration.
Row 6 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till 1st ch-1 sp / marked sp ;
Special Hdc 2-tog in that 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 2,
sk the next sc ; Special hdc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last hdc 2-tog just made) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 7 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till 1st hdc 2-tog / marked sp
;
sc in the 1st hdc 2-tog ;
[2 sc in the
next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next hdc 2-tog] ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
(Move marker to the last sc – over that last hdc 2-tog)
;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 8 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till one sc before the marked sc ;
ch 1, sk the marked sc , sc in the next sc ;
[ch 1,
sk the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Move marker to the last sc – over that last ch-1
sp) ;
sc in each sc till end. Turn
Row 9 : sc
in the 1st sc and each sc till one sc before the marked sc ;
Special hdc 2-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk
the next sc ; Special hdc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 13 times ;
(Put marker away) ;
sc in each sc till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
As we have a nice flat purse right now, I’d suggest
that you line it (if desired) first and then sew the sides up. You will then attach your button before
you’re finally done with this oh, so cute and awesome little purse.
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