SHELLED
TWO-TONED POTLI BAG
I
have made a few of this sling swag bags, and someone wanted a simpler version..
well, I think this qualifies as simple. .. Well, with a slight twist
Throw
in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an evening
out.. or just to carry your mobile phone and keys. The beauty of this bag is that you can make
it in just about any size you want.
So
what’s a Potli ? {poTali} = SWAG
is the Hindi
equivalent for Swag bag.
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no
drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
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Inspired
by a free photo tutorial I found on the internet, here are my notes and few
additions to this lovely design.
This
yarn has a 4-ply or sport ply thickness, but do check gauge if you’re using a
different yarn.
Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn. You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.
Stitches used :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
As
usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what
we’re working on today. For our potli /
swag bag, we’re going to start with a circular base and then work on a small
edge (optional) as we finish our base.
We will then continue working in rounds for the top / sides of our
bag.
We
will work our complete project in rounds.
You
can add beads into your project at any time.
I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to
add beads in). Work a small swatch with
just the pattern for the ‘sides / top’ of the bag, and calculate where you want
your beads. One pattern repeat for the
sides will also give you the ‘length’ that you’re gaining, so you will be able
to calculate how many rows of shelled pattern you need to reach the top, and
accordingly you will be able to work in how many beads you need.
As
always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for .. jus in
case.
Right
then.. let’s now waste any more time.
Part
1 : Base of the Potli bag
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start
with a magic circle and 8 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the
magic circle.
You
can work with sc / hdc or dc for the rounds.
It does not matter which stitch you choose, as we are only interested in
reaching the diameter needed for your base.
Remember though that I am writing this pattern for working with hdc, so
if you decide to use any other stitch, you will need to work as many rounds as
needed for your project accordingly.
Oh and if you decide you want to add beads, go ahead
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 1 :
2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ; hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 3 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ; hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 4 :
hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 5 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the
next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ; hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep
Rounds 4 and 5, increasing by 8 sts every alternate round, ending with Round 5,
till you have a base of the size you want for your bag.
Remember that
increasing every alternate round means that your bag base grows slower.
So
if you want a faster diameter growth, then work the increase round every
round. This will also give a flatter,
softer finish for the base. See what
works best for you with your yarn.
Next round : In this last round for the base, sc
in back loops only (blo), so that we get an edge that will not just look good,
but also hold the bag base down flat.
If
you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please end with
Round 4 or 5 and start with the pattern for the sides / top.
Part
2 : Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag
For
the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase.
For
convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from
1. Please do not confuse these
rounds with the numbers above. For all
instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your
bag only.
Here
are a few ideas before we start on the shelled pattern for the sides. If you decide to work in one colour all
through, then you just work without any yarn change.
If
you decide to change colours, then you will work with the yarn color change(s)
given below. I am giving you an idea of
how to change colours. What you do (or
what I have done) is totally up to you ;) .
Create and enjoy!
MC is the Main Colour, and CC is the Contrast Color.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Round 1 :
(Using MC) :
sc in the 1st sc ; sk next 3 sc, 11 dc in the next sc ;
*sk
next 3 sc, sc in the next sc ;
sk next 3 sc, 11 dc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
We
will now work a small shell st in all of our sc’s all around.
Our Small Shell Stitch is (dc ; ch 2, dc),
all in the same st or ch-sp.
Round 2 :
(Using CC) :
Small Shell st in the 1st sc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 dc, Small Shell St in the next sc ;
*ch
2, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 sc, Small Shell st in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
In
the following round, we will work our 11 dc (which makes that wonderful large
shelled pattern) all in the ch-2 sp of our Small Shell st.
I
repeat this here, as we have a set of ch-2 sps all around, and there should be no
confusion about which ch-2 sp we are using here.
Round 3 :
(Using CC) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st Small
Shell st ,
11 dc in that same 1st ch-2 sp ; sk next ch-2 sp, sc in
the next sc ;
*sk
next ch-2 sp ; 11 dc in the ch-2 sp of the next Small Shell st ;
sk
next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Change
over to MC.
Please
check the top of this blog for the many “how to” links for when working with
two colours of yarn.
Round 4 :
(Using MC) :
Small Shell st in the 1st sc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 dc, Small Shell St in the next sc ;
*ch
2, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, sk next 5 sc, Small Shell st in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 5 :
(Using MC) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st Small
Shell st ,
11 dc in that same 1st ch-2 sp ; sk next ch-2 sp, sc in
the next sc ;
*sk
next ch-2 sp ; 11 dc in the ch-2 sp of the next Small Shell st ;
sk
next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
And
that’s our pattern with two colours of yarn for you.
Rep Rounds 2 to 5 till your project is the
length / height needed, ending with a Round 3 or a Round 5. I have chosen to end with a picot on my last
round.
I have worked a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch
from hk) all around. So in the 11-dc
set, the 6th dc is the middle one, so I worked a picot in that
middle dc, and then I worked a picot in the sc.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Now
rather than have a ‘hole’ row to thread in our I-cord, I have just used the
spaces between the shells, such that these shells then stick out on top and
look really neat. Instead of working
with the last round, you could decide to slip your cord around the shells in
the row one under.
Finishing :
So
we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; line our bag and voila!
b) Easiest I-cord : Easiest I-cord : https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
I
also chose to add a few beads on that last round (using a sewing needle) as I
felt it just need a little more ;)
We’re
ready to show off this lovely creation too.
Enjoyed
this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns
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