DIAMOND TOTE BAG
I’ve made
several tote / swag / potli bags in the past and this is just one more to add
to my large growing collection. Use this
pattern to make a variety of bags – not just one tote / swag / potli bag ;)
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General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate
to Advanced
Abbreviations used :
(Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)
sc
: Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp
: Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
The beauty of
this creation is that you can make it using any yarn with a suitable hook and
make it to any size.
We start our
bag at the base and have a plain base (without pattern) till we have increased
to the width we need for our bag. We
will then start the cute and simple pattern that we will take all the way to
the top.
Right on top,
we will once again have a plain pattern to finish it all off neatly.
Now here’s
where it gets fun – you can decide to have a plain top, or leave it with the
pattern and a picot edging. I will give
you information for all of this and leave the creativity to you.
Come along
then, let’s create something beautiful today.
Our stitch
count for the pattern is in multiples of 3.
We work our pattern in rounds.
So though you
do not need to start in multiples of 3, by the time you are done with
the base, you should have stitches in multiples of 3.
Start Round 1 : with 30 fsc.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st fsc ; and in each fsc till
the last one ;
5 hdc in the
last fsc ;
Turn and work
under the fsc row ;
hdc in each fsc till the last one ;
3 hdc in the
last fsc.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Place a marker
in the centre hdc (of the 3-hdc set) on both ends
Rounds 3 - 4 : 3 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
hdc in each hdc
till one hdc before the marked st ;
3 hdc in that
st ; hdc in the marked st ; 3 hdc in the next st ;
hdc in each st
till one hdc before the marked st ; 3 hdc in that st ;
hdc in the
marked st.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st. Move marker.
At the end of
Round 4, remove markers.
You can start
your pattern right here.
However if you
want an extended base section, please work Rounds 5 & 6.
Rounds 5 - 6 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each
hdc till the end.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Assuming you
have worked the above two rounds without increase, I will continue numbering.
Round 7 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till the
end.
Before we start the pattern, check that we have the stitch count (multiples of 3) for this round. Keep a number check, as you will need to work this number again on the last round for finishing and neatness.
Our pattern
stitch is a combination of four stitches all worked together in one stitch or
ch-sp. It has two sections that make the diamond stitch. Both sections of the diamond are made up of
the same four stitches, in a different combination.
For the bottom
half we will call it our “V-1 st” which is (dc ; ch 3, sl-st in the same st ;
ch 3 ; dc) all in the same st.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Round 8 : “V-1 st” in the 1st hdc ;
*sk next 2 hdc
; “V-1 st” in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We have the lower “V” section of our diamond stitch done.
The top section of our diamond is as simple, but will sound
complicated.
So before we look at the instructions, I need you to
visualise the stitch.
We will once again have 2 dc and 2 sets of ch-3 to make
this half.
We will be working one set of ch 3 and dc on one half of
the “V-1 st” and the second dc and second ch 3 on the second half.
Now, the dc that we work will be a dc 2-tog but we
will work one half of the dc 2-tog over one side of the “V-1 st” and the second
half of the dc 2-tog over the second half of the “V-1 st”.
Sounds terribly complicated, but it isn’t now, is it?
So our “V-2 st” is (ch 3 ; dc 2-tog over the 2 legs of
the “V-1 st” ; ch 3) all over the same “V-1 st”.
This will make it a diamond stitch.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st st ; “V-2 st” over the 1st
“V-1 st” ;
*sl-st into the
next st ; “V-2 st” over the next “V-1
st” * ;
rep *to* all
around.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
See what a
beautiful diamond stitch – that looks a little like a faux Solomon’s knot too.
Round 10 : “V-1 st” in the 1st st ;
and in each st all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : st : means the top of the V-2 st or that dc 2-tog.
Once again, we have the lower “V” section of our diamond stitch done.
Now all you
need to do is basically rep Rounds 9 & 10 working the V-1 and V-2 sts to get
the diamonds.
Here's a video tutorial for the stitch.
Now note that in the tutorial, I have not worked in rounds - so I start and end with a dc and that looks different from our start and end here.
The video is just to show you the stitch - so do NOT follow it totally for making this tote bag. In our tote bag we are working in rounds, and join at the end of each round.
For Round 10,
you will start your “V-1” stitch on the pinnacle (or top bit) of the diamond. In Round 11 you will work your “V-2” st over
the “V-1” st as before.
Rep Rounds 8 & 9 till you have the length needed for
your bag, ending with Round 9.
You could work one round of sc all around the top for a neat finish.
Remember I've asked you to keep a number count - so check now that you have the same number of stitches as when you started the pattern (Round 7)
For the last round, I suggest you work 1 sc on each V-2 st and 2 sc in each ch-3 sp in between. Check at the end of the round that you have the same number of stitches as Round 7 for neatness.
For edging, you could leave it with this last sc row, or work another row and work picots along that row. There is no specific pattern for the picot addition, but I'd say you could add it at the top of every "V" diamond stitch.
Fyi, I have not worked picots along my bag edge.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your
bag up.
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