Sweet Nothings Crochet: COLD SHOULDER CHEVRON TOP

COLD SHOULDER CHEVRON TOP

If you have been following my blogs, you know I love chevrons.. and I have worked with the chevron pattern in many ways. When I saw this top, I knew I had to get this one done too. Thanks for joining me as we work on this new adventure together.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used local superb Indian unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

If you have worked a chevron pattern before, this will be an intermediate skill level for you.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.

View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is a bottom up construction.

I started this pattern off with the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

Right, let’s get started. I've used this chart below as my template for this project.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 16 + 7

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 16 + 7 for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.

Right off the bat, we start on our chevron pattern.

As you know, we manage to get the wavy chevron pattern because of the way we work stitches together.

In this pattern we will work a dc 5-tog over 5 different stitches, and then a set of 5 dc together in one stitch. This fanned formation gives us the chevron pattern.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA

Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8

Row 1 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 fsc ;

sk next fsc, 5 dc in the next fsc ;

*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sk next fsc, dc 5-tog over the next 5 fsc ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, 5 dc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 fsc,

dc 2-tog over the last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in each st all the way to the end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ; sk next sc, 5 dc in the next sc ;

*(ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sk next sc, dc 5-tog over the next 5 sc ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, 5 dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 sc,

dc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

and that’s our chevron pattern done… and here’s where it gets fun. You get to decide how far up along your project you want to work this pattern. You can work a total of 5 repeats for a shorter crop top, or work it all the way to the armholes.

In case you want a longer top, you just increase the number of repeats.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you decide you have a lovely chevron pattern done.

Once you reach the armhole, the pattern all the way to the shoulders is just plain sc / hdc or dc. You choose which stitch works for you.

You will now work one st in each st all the way to the end. Ensure that you have the same number of stitches that you started with when you complete your first row. Then continue working 1 st in each st till end.

For the armhole, I worked a small shaping as follows. In case you can read charts, do use the one above.

(Decrease for armhole shaping) : sl-st in the 1^st 2 or 3 hdc ;

(sl-st in the next ch-1 sp and sl-st in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) till 1^st marker

*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the next marker. Turn.

Once again for the neckline, if you are making it a slightly lower one than a boat neck, then you need to work in a small shaping decrease.

First mark the center of your work. Now work one st in each still till you are 2 sts away from the marker ; work a 2-tog in the last 2 sts.

I say just 2-tog as I am not sure what st you have used for this portion.

So if you have worked in sc till here, you will work a sc 2-tog over the last 2 sts ; or a hdc 2-tog if you have worked in hdc till here. Got it?

You will then work back to the armhole, leaving the rest of the stitches (on other side of marker) unworked.

For a slightly deeper or more curved neckline, work back from armhole end till neckline end, and work a 2-tog once again.

You will then continue working 1 st in each st all the way till you reach the shoulder level.

For the next side, re-attach your yarn on the marked st, and work a 2-tog in the next 2 sts. If you have worked 2 decreases on your first side, you will repeat that this end too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work the same for the 2^nd half of the top as well.

For a boat-like neckline (like in the original photo), all you do is work two rectangles, and then join the shoulders and sides (leaving armhole opening) and you will get an automatic boat-like finish. You will need to work a row of sc or hdc along the neck edge for a neat finish.

In case you'd like a sleeveless top, after you finish working both front and back portions, join sides and shoulders. Then work a row of sc or hdc all around the neck and armhole portion for a neat finish and you are done!

Part 2 : Cold shoulder and sleeves

For the sleeves, re-attach your yarn at the bottom armhole point. You will be working the sleeves only after you have joined shoulders and sides, obviously.

Now decide how large a hole you'd like for your cold shoulder, and place markers on the 2 sts on either side of the shoulder joint row.

For the 1st row, work a row of sc all around.

For all other rows, use the same st that you have worked for the yoke portion.

Now here's where the pattern is slightly tricky again. To get the hole done, we will work a set of chain that will be about 1.5 times more than the number of sts skipped. The actual number of chain varies depending on how loose you'd like the sleeve bit. Remember that the top part of the arm is usually fleshy and not the same size as the shoulder or the lower part of the arm - so there is a bit of trial and win.

As there is no pattern for this section, you just start with adding about 1.5 times the number of chain, and then work that many sts in the chain in the following row.

You may need to reduce or add in a few sts after trial - but that's half the fun in creating something new, isn't it? ;)

Next row : Work 1 st in each still till the marked st ;

then work 1.5 times the number of chain you have skipped stitches ;

and work sts from the next marked st all the way to the end.

Next row : Work 1 st in each st and 1 st in each ch all the way to the end.

You will now work one st in each st till you have the length needed for your sleeve.
May I suggest that for this creation, you keep the sleeve short.

In case you want a longer sleeve, you must keep it a little looser (as against a more fitted) around the top of the arm, so that it flows down better.

Keep a note of your stitch additions for the first side, and mirror it for the other side.

When you finish one side, join the sides. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html