Sweet Nothings Crochet: VIKARNA TOP 1

VIKARNA TOP 1

Vikarna means diagonal in Hindi. While looking through the different languages to find some exciting new name for this top, I was intrigued to find that ‘diagonal’ is spelt and pronounced similarly in so many languages across the world.

Vikarna a.k.a diagonal just sounded so fantastic in Hindi, I couldn’t help but tongue-twist you into saying it. 😃

Hear how to pronounce this via Google translate – it’s a soft sweet word!

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Now I’ve used this pattern in so many different ways – it’s such a great idea.

I’ve made this into a spectacle case https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/02/reversible-diagonal-spectacle-case.html ;

and bags https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/04/smashing-diagonal-clutch-purse.html ; https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/04/smashing-diagonal-clutch-purse-2.html

and https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/04/smashing-diagonal-clutch-purse-3.html and now I am going to make this into a top.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size. Just please read through all my detailed instructions before you pick up your hook.

Come along then and let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use our Anchor knitting cotton, Red rose knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton , Pony cotton as well as Laura yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : The yarn I’ve used is a 3-ply light fingering yarn.

Among the other international knitting cotton yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)

This is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need. The yarn you require will depend on the size you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made. Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

trc : Triple / Treble crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern. This is a slightly complicated pattern and I’ve got loads of notes – bear with me.. they’re all useful!

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

I’ve been inspired to make this project with this free pattern from Ananda Judkins at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/diagonal-dishcloth-3

This project was for a dish cloth – but as you can see it is so flexible and usable in so many different ways.

We are going to use the diagonal dishcloth pattern to make two large rectangles that will fit the length and width requirements of your top. We will then join the two shoulder bits, leaving a boat-necked opening for the neckline, and then join sides, leaving an armhole opening.

After that, optionally, we could work on a small sleeve around the armhole opening.

This pattern works best if you use at least two colours of yarn.

It will also work with self striping or variegated yarn.

In case you want to work this in just one colour, you will need to work in back loops to get a raised effect that will show the diagonal striping.

So with one dishcloth pattern you are going to get two different tops. Isn’t that such fun? Come along then.. let’s start on this one.

You can make this to any size, just ensure that you get the length and breadth that you wish for the person you are making this for.

Your breadth will be half your round bust or round waist measurement.

Your length will be the full length you want for your top.

1) Take measurements for length and breadth (ie round bust /waist) of your client. For breadth, please choose the larger measure between bust and waist.

2) I strongly recommend that you either keep a well-fitting garment of the client, or you make a rectangle paper draft for the length and breadth you have just measured.

3) Now all you need to do is work with the pattern from the link above.

When you start the pattern, you will be starting from the left bottom corner and you will be working from the left hand side of your project to the shoulders and top right hand side of your project. As you increase with every row, you will be increasing both the length and breadth/width of your project – all the way till you reach the breadth (which is the right hand side bottom corner of your paper draft) or the shoulder (which is the right hand side top corner of your draft). At this point, you will stop increases, and start decreasing – and this end will then become a straight end.

The diagrams below are for instruction only and not to scale.

Make two rectangles which we will then join to make our top.

I have tweaked the pattern just a bit for our top – only because I am bone lazy and do not want to fuss around with sc through the whole project ;)

Using the same idea, I have worked in hdc instead.

So just for this difference, I will write down what I did.

Please visit the main link for the original pattern.

Start Row 1 : (Using Colour 1 ) :

with a magic circle and 3 hdc in that circle.

Pull lightly but do not close. Turn. (3)

Row 2 : Increase row (Using Colour 1 ) :

2 hdc in the 1^st hdc ; hdc in the next hdc ;

2 hdc in the last hdc. Turn. (5)

Row 3 : Increase row (Using Colour 2 ) :

2 hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the last hdc. Turn. (7)

Row 4 : Increase row (Using Colour 2 ) :

2 hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

hdc in each hdc till the last 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the last hdc. Turn.

Continue increasing till you have reached either the length or breadth of your top, at which point you will stop increases only at that end and work a hdc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.

Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.

Check the video tutorial at https://youtu.be/jdaXTr7Lcig

Once you get the project to the width you need (which will be the half round waist or half round hip measurement), you will decrease at one end and continue decreasing only at this same end, till you get the length you need for your top.

So this is a one-side decrease

Decrease Row instructions for one side decrease :

hdc 2-tog over in the 1^st 2 dc ;

hdc in each hdc till the last hdc ;

2 hdc in the last hdc. Turn.

Once you get the length you need, you will decrease both ends.

You will continue decreases till you have just 3 sts left, and work a hdc 3-tog over the last 3 sts.

Decrease Row instructions for both side decrease :

hdc 2-tog over in the 1^st 2 dc ;

hdc in each hdc till the last 2 hdc ;

hdc 2-tog over the last hdc. Turn. (9)

Half double crochet 3-tog : hdc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/E-WbOP531a4

Here's a video tutorial to give you an idea of how to get this pattern done.

In case this video does not come on , please go go https://youtu.be/9BNZeMS1k14

and that’s it.. our pattern all done ! This is our pattern all the way to the shoulders. You will get a lovely rectangle that will be in a beautiful diagonal pattern.

Easy peasy, right?

You will make two similar rectangles – one each for the front and back.

Now here’s where your creativity comes in and you can do a different set of things for finishing.

Finishing ideas :

Shoulder :

Join the shoulders and sides, leaving an opening for the neck and armhole. You will get a lovely boat-like neckline and a gaping hole for the armhole. This is Option 1.

OR Option 2, you can decide to work a set of rows to show off the diagonals.

If you decide on this option, then re-attach your yarn at any one end of your work, and run a row of sc or hdc all the way down. Remember when working along the horizontal bar of your hdc, you will work 1 sc / hdc in each hdc till end.

When you finish that first row, check that it sits flat. There is no pattern or stitch count needed here – but it must sit flat.

Now have fun, and change colours as desired to get a flat-line pattern for the shoulder bit. I worked 2 rows each in my two chosen colours per side.

I then joined the ‘shoulder blades’ of the front and back, leaving a scooped boat-like neckline for my top.

Sleeves :

If you are happy with it being just slightly off-the-shoulder and sleeveless, then run a round of sc or hdc all around the armhole and you’re done.

In case you want a small sleeve, then first you need to run a round of sc or hdc all around the armhole and then work a ‘similar’ pattern to whatever you have worked for the shoulder. So in my case, I once again alternated my two chosen colours for two rounds each.

For a slight shaping under the arm (arm pit), I started and ended with a hdc 2-tog over the first two and last two stitches from Rounds 2 – 4. For the rest of the rounds, I just worked a hdc in each hdc all around. As you can see, I worked a total of 10 rounds per sleeve.

More ideas

1. With this beautiful creation, if you make it short then you get a neat off the shoulder cropped top as well.

2. Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. This will mean that you will make two rectangular halves for the front and one larger rectangle for the back. Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using a sc or hdc all around.

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Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html