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Friday, 26 October 2018
GRANNY SQUARE BOHO BEACH TOP - 4
GRANNY
SQUARE BOHO BEACH TOP - 4
I
started with one Boho Granny Square beach top and now am inundated with ideas
and orders for me.Expect a few more
such patterns on this space.Mark your
presence here – add your email id and/or follow me via the blog or on Facebook.
Once
again, this is a granny square adapted to make a top.I found this handy chart and think it will
make a neat pattern – let’s see how this works out.
Come
along and let’s work on this beauty together.
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For
Indians :
Our lovely Indian White rose and Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good
substitute.I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn
For
Non-Indians :
The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting
cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting
cottons.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this pattern.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
The
“Advanced” skills are not for the stitches used (stitches are basic).It applies to the use of techniques to join
the squares and finishing.That said,
this is not that hard – so come along and enjoy this creation.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. Video tutorials are also added all along the blog as we use the stitch.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This
pattern uses granny squares to make the front and back of the beach top.Before we head off let’s work on a few ideas
and see what we are creating.If you
have worked on my first beach boho granny square top, you know what I am
talking about and you can get these measurements done faster
You
will need the following measurements
a)Round Chest
b)Neckline
depth
You
will need to decide whether you are working a back to this creation.You could do just the front and have strings
to hold the back together.If you do
this, this is one afternoon’s work – literally decide you are going to the
beach tomorrow, and whip this up today!
I
am going to give you the basic pattern for a granny square, without indicating
colours.This is where you creativity
and combinations come in.
I
will then tell you how to attach the squares to get the basic top and tassels
done – and you are free to do a little beach craziness too
Part
1 : Basic granny square pattern
Make
five pieces for working back and front
What is an easy way to increase the size of my granny
square ? Use a longer stitch.So if you
find that you need *just that little bit more* for your square to get the round
chest measure, change the dc to a trc and you’ll get the slight increase.
As per chart, there is a (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) worked in
each corner.I wanted a slightly
‘fuller’ corner stitch, so have worked (3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc).I am, however, going to write the pattern as
charted.Decisions and choices are all
yours!
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and
work 12 hdc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.One dc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Note : Working a dc instead of the last
ch-3 means that you are now in the middle of the last ch-3 sp, which is one of
the corners of your granny square, OK?
We start Round 3 in a corner ch-3 sp.
Round 3 :2 dc in the 1st corner ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same corner ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc ;
(ch 2, 2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc)
all in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 4 :sl-st into the 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner ch-3
sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
In our next round, we will work a dc 5-tog.
Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA
Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
Round 5 :sl-st into the 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner ch-3
sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, dc 5-tog over the next 5 dc ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc 5-tog , dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 7 : sl-st into the 1st
corner ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next
2 dc ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st
corner ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 2, sk next dc , 2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the
next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc} ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] 2 times ;
sk next dc , rep {to} once ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st
corner ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc} ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
sk next dc , rep {to} once ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 10 : sl-st into the 1st
corner ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next 6 dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc} ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} once ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 11 : sl-st into the 1st
corner ch-3 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same 1st corner
ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 8 dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc} ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} once ;
sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once in the corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Fantastic work!We have completed one beautiful granny square.
Check the size and make a total of five squares.
Part
2 : Joining Granny squares
Using one of the joining techniques given below, join
your granny squares.
To join, turn your squares to the right, so that they
become diamond shaped and then join two sides of the centre one to one side
each of the side diamonds.
We have spun our squares into diamonds, Ta .. da!
Look at the diagram below to get an idea of how to
place them before joining.
How do you join the squares evenly?
a)Count the number of stitches you have on each side and
place a marker at the 2 corner points of two squares
b)Join the squares neatly till the two corner points
c)After having joined Squares (diamonds) 1 & 2,
ensure that you once again place a marker for the two corner points of the 3rd
square and join this one neatly too.
d)Ensure that you have a neat join at the “V” between the
3 squares / diamonds which will form your neckline.
e)Work with the same care for the other side of your top
as well.
f)You now have a “V” (facing downwards)>We will work your shoulder straps from the top
2 points of the side diamonds.
g)We will join the back and front from the side two
points of the two side diamonds.
h)We will hang tassels off the lower two points of the
diamonds.Got it?
Part
3 : Border around diamonds
Now that you have the diamonds joined, let us run a
small border all around, before we make our shoulder straps and join the back
to the front.
a)Re-attach your yarn at any point on the side of one of
the diamonds / granny squares.
b)Mark the corner points of the top.
c)Run a round of sc all around the squares, with 3 sc in
each corner st.
d)Work a sc 2-tog (single crochet 2-tog) over the 2 sts
in the “V” point / neckline.Check the
top of this blog for a “how to”
e)Work stitches such that you get a stitch count in multiples
of 3 all around.
Once you have finished this preparation, lets’ start on
the actual border.
Just so it looks really good, you must ensure
that you get a dc in that centre stitch of the “V” of your top and in the two
corners where you will work your shoulder straps.So in case it’s easier for you, re-attach
your yarn at one of these points, counting off to ensure that you will
get the dc in these three points.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner marker ;
[ch
2, dc in the same corner marker]* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
We will work 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and work 3 sc in
each ch-2 corner sp.
The corner sp for
the following round will be the (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same sp that forms a
“V”.Got it?
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc ;
(3 sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next dc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner “V” sp ;
3 sc
in that corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Now in the final border round, we will work a shell in
every alternate ch-3 sp.
For the sake of
getting it all right and perfect, please check how you need to work your
shells.
How do we do that?
a)You must
have a shell in the corner ch-3 sps.
b)So work back from the corner ch-3 sp and see where you
need to start working your 1st sc.
c)We will be working our shell Stitch in the centre sc
of each 3-sc set.
d)We will work an sc in every alternate 3-sc set, and
once again in the centre sc of the set.
e)Our Shell st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) once] all
in the same sc.
f)Our Corner Shell st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) 3
times] all in the same sc.
Following the above ground rules, let’s work this last
border round.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st
centre sc of the 1st 3-sc set ; sc in that same sc ;
(sk next 2 sc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc,
sc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner 3-sc set ;
sk next 2 sc, Corner Shell st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Part
4 : Shoulder & side Straps
For the straps I have worked a row of foundation half
double crochet for the length I needed for my straps – two each for the
shoulders and two for the sides.
Foundation half double crochet is like the fdc, but instead of working a dc,
you work a hdc chain.
If you find this too confusing, you can
a)Work a fsc chain for the length needed ; Turn and then
work an sc in each fsc all the way back to the start.Fasten off and attach onto the top ; OR
b)Work a regular chain length for the length needed ;
Turn and work a hdc in each chain all the way to the start.Fasten off and attach onto the top.
c)Attachment : Check the photo above.Ensure that you allow your work to hang for a
bit before tightly securing the ends – no matter what yarn you are using.Even cotton yarn tends to stretch a bit on
hanging / wear.
This is one kick-ass (oops) boho top, don’t you agree?
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