C 2 C CLUTCH PURSE
After a long
break, I am back to making a purse.
The idea of using the C-2- C pattern for making a bag is probably not an
old one, but it’s brand new for me.
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So here I am
back again, making something new and different, and I’m glad that you’re here
with me as we work on this project together.
I found this chart for a C-2-C on the net, which
I am using for this project..
Materials used : Indian
Polyester cone yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate
to Advanced skill level.
The pattern we’re using here is the C-2-C, so if
you have done this before.. come along and see how we’re making a square into a
rectangle.
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
dtrc : Double triple crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
MC : Main color
CC : Contrast color
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Extended single crochet (e-sc) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
The beauty of this pattern is that you could
work with either an dc or an e-sc. I
love the e-sc and often have replaced that stitch for the dc, as I love that it
gives you the length needed (almost same length as a dc), but is a ‘lighter’
stitch.. well, to know what I mean, you just gotta try it too... tee hee.
Before we head off, let’s try to visualize what
we’re going to create here today.
The C-2-C pattern starts is one you have
probably done before, in which case this is going to be a really easy project
for you.
The pattern is worked from side to side, in
a seeming straight line, but due to the way we use our stitches, the end result
looks complicated and diagonal.
Just to throw in the curve (and difficulty), you
can add in a second color, which will not only accentuate the stitch but make
it look awesomely complicated.
We may be working different sizes for our
pattern, so as always, I’ll give you a general idea and write up and you go off
and create your genius product. Just
remember to share my blog (with the full URL or blog link) please when you make
your beautiful bag. Thanks.
How will our C-2-C work? Our pattern will work
side to side, either for the length or breadth of your purse. You need to decide that first. Then after the first line (say you have
worked the first strip to be your length), you will work the same pattern all
through to get the width of your purse and vice-versa. Simple enough, right?
So let’s get started.
I am going to give you instructions for a change
of colour (using 2 colours) BUT you can work the whole pattern in one colour as
well.
Start Row 1 : (using MC) :
with
6 ch ; Turn and work dc in the 4th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
*ch 6, Turn and work dc in the 4th
ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch*. Turn.
If not changing
colours,
please just continue with pattern.
If changing colours, please
change to your CC yarn now, attaching it at top of the 1st dc from
end.
There are two ways to continue with our changing
of colours. You can either carry the
unused colour yarn along OR you can fasten off and weave in ends when you
attach your 2nd colour, and re-attach it again when you are done
with your row.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
As we’re working diagonally, we will have a
little “square” made of the 3 chain and 3 dc each time. We will attach our rows at the corner of each
“square” each time so that we get a neat, tight finish.
That said, if you’ve done a C-2-C before, you
know this.. I’m just making all these notes, as it’s my first time!
Row 2 : (using
CC) :
6 ch ; Turn
and work dc in the 4th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
(sk next 3 dc, sl-st and join with the
corner of the last square)
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp [which is the 4th dc of the 1st set]. Turn.
Row 3 : (using
MC) :
6 ch ; Turn
and work dc in the 4th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
(sk next 3 dc, sl-st and join with the
corner of the last square)
*ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once*
;
rep *to* once ,
ending with 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
I am sure you have understood the
pattern, but let’s work one more row together.
Row 4 : (using
CC) :
6 ch ; Turn
and work dc in the 4th ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
(sl-st and join with the
corner of the last square)
*ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once*
;
rep *to* once, ending with 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
And this is the basic pattern. You will continue working Row 4 for
the pattern, increasing one repeat every row.
Now here’s where we need to work out a new
idea. If we continue working the C-2-C
all through, you will end up with a square project.
So at some time, you will need to figure out
what length and width you want for your project.
At that time, you will need to stop adding the 6
ch and work a slightly different start to your row.
So let’s visualize this. As you reach the length of your project,
instead of working 6 ch, you will sl-st along the last 3 dc made, till you
reach the 1st ch-3 sp, and then you will work your pattern in that
ch-3 sp, and continue all the way to the end.
So what happens when you reach the width of your project?
Same thing.
You will work all the way till the end, and then
you will sl-st along the 3 dc’s and work your next set of sts in the ch-3
sp.
Once again, this is exactly how one works the
C-2-C. It’s just that as far as I know,
I have seen the C-2-C worked for afghans and scarves / wraps – which are way
larger projects and our purse is a tad smaller !
Our Row 5 then is just for the change of pattern
when you have reached the length of your project
Row 5 : sl-st
ch ; Turn and work dc in the 4th
ch from hk ;
dc in the next 2 ch ;
(sl-st and join with the
corner of the last square)
*ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once*
;
rep *to* 2 times , ending with 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Once you reach the length needed for your
project, fasten off and weave in ends... and ta da, you're done!
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up.
a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
c) How to attach a zipper : Check this link athttp://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
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