LACED
POTLI BAG 1
I
have made a few of this sling swag bags, and someone wanted a simpler version..
well, I think this qualifies as simple. .. Well, with a slight twist
Throw
in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an evening
out.. or just to carry your mobile phone and keys. The beauty of this bag is that you can make
it in just about any size you want.
So
what’s a Potli ? (pronounced {poTali} = SWAG)
is the Hindi
equivalent for Swag bag.
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no
drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
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Inspired
by this free chart I found on the internet, here are my notes and few additions
to this lovely design.
The
beauty of following my blogs is that with this one simple creation, you will
also get links for allllllllllll my earlier bag projects .. so come along and
check them all out.
This
yarn has a 4-ply or sport ply thickness, but do check gauge if you’re using a
different yarn.
Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn. You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
The
designer has used dc so this is how I’ll write the pattern out. You may use the hdc , or dc for this lovely
creation.
Oh if you decide to use beads or work with 2 colors, here you go
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start
with a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the
magic circle.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 1 :
2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 3 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 4 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the
next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 5 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the
next 4 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 4 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rounds 6 - 9 : Rep
Round 5, increasing by 6 sts every round.
Check the size of the bottom of your bag, and decide if you want to
increase any further. The size of the
bottom of your bag does not make any difference to the pattern, so go ahead and
get it to the size you want.
Remember
though that you will be increasing only 6 sts every round.
Last round (Optional) : In this last
round for the base, sc in back loops only (blo), with 1 sc-blo in each hdc all
around ; so that we get an edge that will not just look good, but also hold the
bag base down flat.
If
you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please work
your chosen regular st all around and continue without fastening off for the
sides of the potli bag.
Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag
For
the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase.
For
convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from 1. Please do not confuse these rounds
with the numbers above. For all
instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your
bag only.
Rounds 1 & 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc and
in each hdc all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
In
the following round, we will use a dc 3-tog.
Round 3 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; sc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc ;
*ch
2, sk next hdc, dc 3-tog in the next hdc ;
(ch
2, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc ;
sc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc)*
;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
Round
4 is similar in pattern to Round 3.
So we will work the combination of (hdc ,
sc ; hdc) but we will work this on the dc 3-tog ; and we will work our dc 3-tog
for this round on the sc of the earlier round.
Round 4 :
sl-st past the 1st hdc and into the 1st sc ; dc 3-tog in
the same 1st sc ;
*ch
2, sk next hdc, dc 3-tog in the next hdc ;
(ch
2, sk next hdc, [hdc ; sc ; hdc] all in the next dc 3-tog ;
ch
2, sk the next hdc, dc 3-tog in the next sc)* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2, join with a sl-st
to the 1st dc.
We
will use a “V”-st in our following round.
Our “V” stitch (“V”-st) here is (dc ;
ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Round 5 :
sl-st into the 1st dc 3-tog, “V”-st in the same dc 3-tog ;
*sk
next hdc, “V”-st in the next sc ; sk next hdc, “V”-st in the next dc 3-tog* ;
rep *to* till end ;
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 :
hdc the 1st dc (of the 1st “V”-st) ;
*hdc
in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around,
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
And
that’s one repeat done So stop your work
and look at the beauty you’ve created.
Our
repeat rounds are Rounds 3 – 6.
Continue
repeats till you have a bag of the length you desire. (Please read Notes below
before you decide on length)
Note : Just before you reach the final length,
here’s a thought / idea for you.
You could work all the way to the end with this pattern, and end with a Round 5
(“V”-st round). We can then work the
final round off this last round
OR
you stop at Round 5, and then work a few more rounds of “V”-st (as per the
chart) and finally work the border.
Just
so you have options, I am writing this as charted, and you can decide what you
want to do.
So
after you have almost reached the length needed, end at Round 5. There are three more rounds that I will put
down as Border rounds 1 – 3.
Border Rounds 1 & 2 : sl-st into the 1st
“V”-st ; “V”-st in the same 1st “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the next
and each “V”-st till the end.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
In
this round we will work a larger “V” in the ch-1 sps of every alternate “V”-st.
Border Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st ;
(dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp of the “V”-st] ; rep [to] once) all in the same
1st “V”-st ;
*sc
in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
In
our last round, we have two options. You
can either work just a ch all around, OR you can work in a picot.
If
you are working a picot, may I suggest a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st into
the 3rd ch from hk).
I
am giving you both options below.
Border Round 4 : (Option 1 : as charted) :
sc the 1st
“V”-st ;
(dc ; [ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp of the “V”-st] ;
rep [to] once
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Now
rather than have a ‘hole’ row to thread in our I-cord, I have just used the
spaces between the shells, such that these shells then stick out on top and
look really neat.
Finishing :
Easiest I-cord : https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
So
we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; or you could (like I have) get
a nice shiiiiiiny lace and thread that through the spaces .. and you could also
use the same (or another similar one) for the “V” stitches in the centre of
your bag (as the designer has done).
Add a few beads on that last round, in the middle of your "V"-sts.. or the last 2 rounds..
Each new addition gives this lovely bag a new look.. and of course makes
it uniquely yours. You may line your bag
(there are ideas given at the top of this blog) … and voila! We’re ready to
show off this lovely creation !
Enjoyed
this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
If you'd like to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
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