Sweet Nothings Crochet: March 2016

SLEEVED SHELLED PINK TOP

I was gifted this really lovely cotton yarn and thought I’d go through yet another lovely top from my “to-do” list. I really need to start thinking of some whacky names for my tops now, don’t you think? So if you have something that’s appropriate for this one, do tell.

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As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837355484/

Materials used : Today I’ve used a really lovely(unbranded) seemingly worsted weight cotton yarn, with a 4.5 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : This cotton is a lot like our Laura knitting cotton in thickness.

For non – Indians : This cotton feels a lot like Sugar n’ cream or Cotton ease knitting cotton in thickness.

I started with about 800 gms for a size 36” chest, and my yarn is insufficient. I think I’d need about 1000 gms for this size. I think 800 gms could have worked for a size 32 – 34” chest.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. We will start from the base of the top and then work up to the shoulders. The bottom of this top has a lovely shelled pattern that becomes a simple set of dc’s as we reach the armholes and onwards to the shoulders. The sleeves are made along with the yoke in a straight line, which looks simple enough…so let’s see how this works out.

Our stitch count is in repeats of 14 + 3

BACK / FRONT( Make two )

I started with 73 (70 + 3) for a 36” waist.

Start : with fdc in multiples of 14 + 3 that equals half your round waist measure. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st 3 fdc ;

*ch 5, sk next 4 fdc, sc in the next fdc ;

ch 3, sk next fdc, sc in the next fdc ;

ch 5, sk next 4 fdc, dc in the next 3 fdc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 1, dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use a dc 3-tog.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*[sk next sc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp] ;

(ch 3, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, rep [to] once ;

dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next dc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sk next dc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sk next dc 3-tog, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

And can you believe just how simple our pattern repeat is.. because we’ve just finished one repeat.

Our pattern stops just at the armhole level, and we’ll have a new pattern for the yoke and sleeves together. So let’s work this bit and we’ll meet up for the yoke in a bit.

Rep Rows 2 – 5 till your project reaches the armhole level, ending with Row 3 ; ch 12 and fasten off.

Before you fasten off and weave in ends, but please read the all the Notes on calculations and points below first.

Notes on Calculations :

The pattern on our yoke has the same width as the pattern on the body (i.e from the start of one 3-dc set, past a shelled or dc 3-tog portion to the start of next 3-dc set). However, for the sleeves, the stitch count is 12 stitches (as against 14 for the shelled pattern on the body).

So here’s what I’ve done. Measure the width of the pattern (between two 3-dc sets of the shelled pattern) and decide how long you want your sleeve. So let’s say (for e.g), each pattern width is 4” , then each pattern repeat gives you 4” of sleeve. So say you want a 12” sleeve length, you need three pattern repeats, i.e you will add 36 stitches (12 sts x 3 = 36 sts). Got it?

Now that’s the first part. As we’re adding sleeves on both sides at the same time, we will be adding chains (according to the sleeve length we want) on both sides of the body of our top.

So here’s what we’re going to do :

1. Before ending for the body part just now, add chains in multiples of 12 depending on how long you want your sleeve (as explained above).

2. Fasten off yarn.

3. Re-attach your yarn at the other end (on that 1^st dc) , for the second sleeve and work a chain length with the same number of stitches as you’ve have added for the 1^stsleeve.

4. In the first row for the yoke, we’re going to work first on the chains added, then on the pattern stitches for the body of the top, and once again on the added chain for the second sleeve.

5. We’re also going to use our chainless dc start (a “how-to” under “stitches used”). As we’re starting on a chain row (as against an fsc or fdc), we will use a ch 1, as a turning chain and then work a chainless dc start on the 2^nd chain from hook.

6. In case you are unhappy with this start, may I suggest you work an extra 3 chain at the end of your multiples of 12 (i.e if you’re doing just one extra pattern length, then work 11 + 3 = 14 ch for this sleeve side , and the 1^st 3 ch will be your 1^st dc, and you will get a total of 12 sts this end as well).

7. This is only for this side where we’re starting. You do not need to add the extra stitches for the other end, as we’ll work all the way till that last ch to get multiples of an even 12.

Finally, as we’re starting the first row of our yoke, let’s start re-numbering again.

Please remember that all instructions that follow henceforth, are for the yoke.

Do not confuse them with the earlier pattern instructions for the body of our top.

YOKE

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st 3 ch ;

[ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next 3 ch] ;

rep [to] till you reach the 1^st 3-dc set on the body of the top ;

*ch 1, sk next ch-2 sp, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till you reach the second set of chain for the second sleeve ;

rep [to] till end. Turn.

Great job. That was not that confusing, was it?

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the shoulders.

Now this project has a straight shoulder / neckline and a straight armhole line.

How easy can this get?

Continue working till you reach the shoulders. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all instructions for the back OR go through my ‘Tweak’ if you want to change pattern for the back.

Tweak : I started with 800 gms of this yarn, and on completion of the 1^st half, found that I thought I had less than I’d need for the second half, so rather than suffer from an incomplete project, I thought I’d change the pattern for the back.

The top / yoke pattern was a nice one, and I thought I’d work just the yoke pattern for the whole back.

There’s a small difference in stitch count for both patterns as I’ve said before. So the front has a stitch count of 14, but the simpler yoke pattern has a stitch count of 12.

So if you decide to work the back in the simpler yoke pattern, then start with a fdc chain in multiples of 12.

I will then work the yoke pattern all the way from the bottom all the way past the yoke to the shoulders for the back, and will then attach the sides and shoulders to complete this pattern.

Sadly, I found that my yarn was insufficient, so even with the change in pattern, I have to do something different for the upper back of my top.

Anyway, you work the finishing as per the instructions below, no matter which pattern you have worked.

Finishing :

Attach the shoulders and the sides of the top together. If you think you need to, then work a round of sc all around the neckline, round arm and the bottom of the top.

The photographs (of the inspiration picture - check top of this blog) indicate another way to join up the shoulders.

It *looks* like the designer has attached the shoulders, and then rather than attach all the way down the top part of the sleeve, has left it unattached and has then woven in a ribbon to bring those two edges together. As the yoke has a neat ‘holed’ pattern, weaving a yarn or ribbon in is easy, and a neat bow at the lower end will look cute and different too.

So go wild… and let me see your creativity here.

As we’ve started with a fdc chain, that start row (or bottom of top) is neatly finished, but that’s up to you.

In my case with the partly done back and having run out of yarn, I am going to speak with my friend and ask her if she’d like me to attach a section of fabric for the upper part of the back – or maybe I’ll just rip it all out and start with a fresh pattern in this yarn.

I don’t really regret it as the yarn was really lovely to work with and hopefully (if I rip it out) will unravel easily enough, and I also got to figure out this unusual construction and share it with you. While not a total ‘win-win’, I’m not too upset about this end either.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

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