Sweet Nothings Crochet: BEAUTIFUL LOTUS BABY DRESS

free crochet pattern for a little girl's dress

BEAUTIFUL LOTUS BABY DRESS

This dress has been on several people’s “To-do” list ... and on mine for a long time as well. The skirt pattern here is a really versatile pattern one and can be easily adapted for several sizes.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Cheers. Enjoy

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 185 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ;

Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 2 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, working from the chest / waist up.
Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.

These instructions are not that important when working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a larger child.

Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.

You will take a look at the chart for the yokes, and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your chart

There is a link given above for chart on square neck sizing.

Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.

And just when you thought we’re going to pick up our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.

As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add flare in this dress.

When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion (esp for a small baby dress), we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.

Remember here that if you alter the pattern repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting with on your own

a) In the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of sts). So you could reduce the gap and reduce the number of sts skipped.

b) You keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3 dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1^st st

c) You combine both (a) and (b)

All this said, I am going to write the pattern instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as you please

Part I : Yoke

Start Row 1 : with fsc for the number of stitches per chart (i.e according to the yoke size you’re making). Turn.

Place markers for the four corners of your yoke.

By the chart that we’re referring to now (say for the 18 – 24 m), we will count off 10 sts and place a maker for 1^st corner, then count off 13 sts ;
and place the 2^nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3^rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4^th last marker.

We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Note : I am writing the pattern like I have done it but if you are making a larger or smaller dress, please just work till end and not 2 times till end.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc till the 1^st marker ;

“V”-st in the marked st ;

*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in the marked st* ;

rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.

Before we move any further, a quick note. You need to decide how much of an opening you need for your buttons at the back. Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in rows. Once you have a button placket that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st, and work in rounds thereafter.

For little babies, and younger kids, you will work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’ head properly.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;

*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.

Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.

So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the chart.
So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.
So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.

I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two ends so that we have a neat round to work on.

Part 2 : Sleeves

Re-attach your yarn at the armhole and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;

ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Rounds 3 - 5 : Rep Round 2.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 3 : Neckline

Re-attach your yarn at the neckline and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4 : Skirt

Even before we start on our skirt, I’m throwing a few thoughts out at you.

There is a chart given here, and the pattern there is partly used in the lovely white creation (that inspired me). I think, however, that it may work better for a slightly older child .. with a waist – by which I mean that for my 2 yr old with a tiny 19” waist, I find the extra first few lines too many.

I am, therefore, opting to figure the first part of the pattern out by looking at the white dress and am writing these instructions accordingly.

Do feel free to choose the write up below or go with the chart (which is not the same for the first few lines )

Remember as I’ve mentioned before that you can always add or remove stitches and ch-sps to add to the flare of a skirt or reduce the laciness of a garment. That said, let’s start with the skirt.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt portion is 9.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, (dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;

ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In our next round, we will start the next set of leaves, so see how this beautifully branches out.

Round 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, (dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 7 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Just for a moment, put your work down to admire what we’ve created and also to see how the leaves are emerging.

See how we’ve completed one full leaf bit and are halfway through the next one.

The following round is a rep of Round 6, but we will be ignoring that 1^st dc which forms the end of the last leaf, so a small difference in the instructions.

Round 9 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

And I’m sure you’ve not only got the hang of the pattern, but also figured that we’ve completed one pattern repeat. Rep Rounds 7 to 9 till you are happy with the length of the skirt for this dress (ending with a Round 9).

Now here’s where you have to put on your creative thinking cap again. Just working this leafy pattern all the way to the bottom and ending with just this will be one beautiful pattern.

However, this pattern has a largish floral base which I’m going to attempt to write up and create.

This floral border is about 9 rounds. So here’s what you need to do. You need to calculate how many inches you will add in 9 rounds, and you will need to work the pattern reps above (i.e Rounds 7 – 9) till you are that many inches less.

So what does this mean?

OK So say your 9 rounds will add 4.5” and your total dress length is 20”, then when you are just about 15.5” (as measured from the shoulder of your little dress), you need to stop rep of Rounds 7 – 9 (ending with Round 9) and start working on the instructions for the border. Does this make sense?

Great then.. off you go and create something beautiful and we’ll catch up soon.

And we’re back. You have now completed your reps of Rounds 7 – 9 and have just done that last Round 9. Beautiful so far, isn’t it?

Right.. for the next few rounds, we will be working instructions similar to Rounds 7, 8 & 9 but we’re going to finish these two leaves we’ve started and add one in the centre as well (Check the photograph to see what I mean here).

As the instructions are nearly the same, I’m going to call our Rounds 7A, 8A and 9A and then we will carry on with the numbering.

Please note that you must not confuse these instructions with what you’ve done before. Thanks.

Now just to make this a little simpler, let's work 2 sts backwards here, so that we’re at the start of the 4 dc.

For this turn your work (so you are now working along the wrong side of your work) and sl-st into the 1^st 2 dc. Turn again, and we will start our Round 7A working on the right side of our work

Round 7A : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

See what we’ve done here? The long 4-dc pattern that we’ve made so far is going to magically open up into this lovely Lotus-like flower and we’ve just made our first step in that direction.

Round 8A : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

{ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;

*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9A : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

{ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc} ;

*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;

[ch 2 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc] ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep {to} once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, we’re decreasing at one part of our flower, and increasing at another part.

Please check the tension of your work, and increase (or decrease) the ch-sps in-between as desired.

Round 10 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

{ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} once ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;

*ch 4, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 4 , dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;

ch 4, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;

ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;

{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp} ;

rep {to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 7, sk next dc, sc on the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*[ch 3, dc on the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 1, sk next dc 3-tog, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sc on the next sc ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 13 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} once ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc on the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 14 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;

[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In our final round, you can work a decorative picot stitch all around.

We will use the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

For a “how-to” on picots, please go to the top of this blog for an explanatory video link.

You will work the dc in the centre dc of the 3-dc set.

If you decide not to use the picot stitch, then you will work the same instructions just avoiding the “+picot” notification all around.

I will write the instructions without the picot.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Round 15 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp and in the next 10 ch-sps ;

dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, dc in the next sc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ??

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric. I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top. The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

Look for pictures at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/06/chandras-frilled-dress.html

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage

Have a great day and see you soon.

I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/10/enchanting-dress.html