BEAUTIFUL LOTUS BABY DRESS
This dress has been on several people’s “To-do”
list ... and on mine for a long time as well.
The skirt pattern here is a really versatile pattern one and can be
easily adapted for several sizes.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Cheers. Enjoy
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 185 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a
3.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch
marker
Size made : For
a 2 yr old
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced Skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
This
is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the
fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert
hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert
hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo,
draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc
made.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike
the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3
picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in
5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Here is a sizing chart for general neck
sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general
sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on
how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on
how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join
at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on
how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the chest /
waist up.
Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.
Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.
These instructions are not that important when
working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a
larger child.
Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest
of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest
measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)
We will then work on the skirt portion of our
dress off the bottom of the yoke.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.
You will take a look at the chart for the yokes,
and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your
chart
There is a link given above for chart on square
neck sizing.
Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a
well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.
And just when you thought we’re going to pick up
our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.
As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses
with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add
flare in this dress.
When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion (esp for a small baby dress), we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.
Remember here that if you alter the pattern
repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting
with on your own
a) In
the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of
sts). So you could reduce the gap
and reduce the number of sts skipped.
b) You
keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3
dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1st
st
c) You
combine both (a) and (b)
All this said, I am going to write the pattern
instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as
you please
Part I : Yoke
Place markers for the four corners of your
yoke.
By the chart that we’re referring to now (say for
the 18 – 24 m), we will count off 10 sts
and place a maker for 1st corner, then count off 13 sts ;
and place the 2nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4th last marker.
and place the 2nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4th last marker.
We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke
which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Note : I am writing the pattern like I have done it but if you are making a larger or smaller dress, please just work till end and not 2 times till end.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc
till the 1st marker ;
“V”-st in the marked st ;
*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in
the marked st* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Before we move any further, a quick note. You need to decide how much of an opening you
need for your buttons at the back.
Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in
rows. Once you have a button placket
that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st,
and work in rounds thereafter.
For little babies, and younger kids, you will
work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’
head properly.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc
till the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in
the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.
So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the
chart.
So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.
So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.
So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our
dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two
ends so that we have a neat round to work on.
Part 2 : Sleeves
Re-attach your yarn at the armhole and let’s run
a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;
ch 1, sk next
sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc
in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Rounds 3 - 5 : Rep Round 2.
Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*5 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 3 : Neckline
Re-attach your yarn at the neckline and let’s
run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next
sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc
in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*5 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 4 : Skirt
Even before we start on our skirt, I’m throwing
a few thoughts out at you.
There is a
chart given here, and the pattern there is partly used in the lovely white
creation (that inspired me). I think,
however, that it may work better for a slightly older child .. with a waist –
by which I mean that for my 2 yr old with a tiny 19” waist, I find the extra
first few lines too many.
I am, therefore, opting to figure the first part
of the pattern out by looking at the white dress and am writing these
instructions accordingly.
Do feel free to choose the write up below or go
with the chart (which is not the same for the first few lines )
Remember as I’ve mentioned before that you can
always add or remove stitches and ch-sps to add to the flare of a skirt or
reduce the laciness of a garment. That
said, let’s start with the skirt.
Our pattern repeat for the skirt portion is 9.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same
dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next
dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc
; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In our next round, we will start the next set of
leaves, so see how this beautifully branches out.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2 ,
sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the
next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Just for a moment, put your work down to admire
what we’ve created and also to see how the leaves are emerging.
See how we’ve completed one full leaf bit and
are halfway through the next one.
The following round is a rep of Round 6, but we
will be ignoring that 1st dc which forms the end of the last leaf,
so a small difference in the instructions.
Round 9 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
And I’m sure you’ve not only got the hang of the
pattern, but also figured that we’ve completed one pattern repeat. Rep Rounds 7 to 9 till you are happy with the
length of the skirt for this dress (ending with a Round 9).
Now here’s where you have to put on your
creative thinking cap again. Just
working this leafy pattern all the way to the bottom and ending with just this
will be one beautiful pattern.
However, this pattern has a largish floral base
which I’m going to attempt to write up and create.
This floral border is about 9 rounds. So here’s what you need to do. You need to calculate how many inches
you will add in 9 rounds, and you will need to work the pattern reps above (i.e
Rounds 7 – 9) till you are that many inches less.
So what does this mean?
OK So say your 9 rounds
will add 4.5” and your total dress length is 20”, then when you are just about
15.5” (as measured from the shoulder of your little dress), you need to stop
rep of Rounds 7 – 9 (ending with Round 9) and start working on the instructions
for the border. Does this make sense?
Great then.. off you go and create something
beautiful and we’ll catch up soon.
And we’re back.
You have now completed your reps of Rounds 7 – 9 and have just done that
last Round 9. Beautiful so far, isn’t
it?
Right.. for the next few rounds, we will be
working instructions similar to Rounds 7, 8 & 9 but we’re going to finish
these two leaves we’ve started and add one in the centre as well (Check the
photograph to see what I mean here).
As the instructions are nearly the same, I’m
going to call our Rounds 7A, 8A and 9A and then we will carry on with the numbering.
Please note that you must
not confuse these instructions with what you’ve done before. Thanks.
Now just to make this a little simpler, let's
work 2 sts backwards here, so that we’re at the start of the 4 dc.
For this turn your work (so you are now working along
the wrong side of your work) and sl-st into the 1st 2 dc. Turn again, and we will start our Round 7A
working on the right side of our work
Round 7A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
See what we’ve done here? The long 4-dc pattern
that we’ve made so far is going to magically open up into this lovely
Lotus-like flower and we’ve just made our first step in that direction.
Round 8A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next
ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the
next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 9A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next
dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch
2 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc)
;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
In the following round, we’re decreasing at one
part of our flower, and increasing at another part.
Please check the tension of your work, and
increase (or decrease) the ch-sps in-between as desired.
Round 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ; ch
3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
*ch 4, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 4 , dc
3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 4, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, dc
in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 11 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next dc, sc on the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 12 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc on the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc 3-tog, 3 dc in the next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sc on the next sc ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;
ch 5, sc on the next sc ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 13 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc on the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
ch 3, sc on the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 14 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;
rep {to} once ;
[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
In our final round, you can work a decorative
picot stitch all around.
We will use the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st
in the 3rd ch from hk).
For a “how-to” on picots, please go to the top
of this blog for an explanatory video link.
You will work the dc in the centre dc of the 3-dc
set.
If you decide not to use the picot stitch, then
you will work the same instructions just avoiding the “+picot” notification all
around.
I will write the instructions without the picot.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 15 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp and in the next 10
ch-sps ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, dc in the next sc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
I should
also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink
beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely
as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a
little fabric. I then sewed in the beads
onto that little fabric top. The base of
the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I
think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?
Look for
pictures at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/06/chandras-frilled-dress.html
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back
right here for more freebie patterns
Remember
to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB
page. Cheers.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/
OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/
Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas
And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.
Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas
Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/
Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/
Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage
Have a great day and see you soon.
I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
Behalf of Kids Clothing I am happy and satisfied after reading this blog. Because this blog gives me a brief idea about the baby dress. I found a lot of website for buying the baby dress but I couldn’t get any best dress for baby. A few weeks ago, my friend told me about alisababy.co.uk it was nice and amazing of Newborn baby girl clothes.
ReplyDeleteThis is really a very good article. Thanks for taking the time to discuss with us, I feel happy about learning this topic. keep sharing your information regularly for my future reference.
ReplyDeleteWomens Clothing Stores Mumbai
Thanks so much Anisha. Happy to share and help. I write a daily (almost) blog, so do follow and enjoy the daily shares. Have a creative day too
DeleteThanks a lot for the breakdown of this beautiful dress. I love making dresses for my baby girl but they can be challenging and I only have two years of experience so I am always learning. I like how you included the charts for the yoke to size it appropriately to your child. I never knew they had already measured out charts like that and it helped me a lot. For some reason I used a 3.5mm hook and 4ply yarn but I'm not getting the same measurement for size when I crochet the number of stitches indicated. I can still make it work but I love your work and will definitely be making another one of your dresses. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your interest and appreciation. So sizing is a bit of an irritant - using different yarn/hook and work tension - but as long as you have the stitch count done, you should generally manage. With yoke, if you do not get the stitch count given with your yarn/hook etc, use the slightly higher or lower yoke pattern and get the yoke to the size you want. Then check the stitch count for the skirt portion and work the lower half of the dress as given. Do share your creations with me - I'd love to showcase them on Facebook (with your permission). Cheers and have a great day
DeleteGreat article, I hope that you will going to post another one.
ReplyDeleteformal evening gowns
formal evening dresses
australia evening dresses
Thank you for your appreciation Nat. Yup.. I try to post a blog a day, so yes, there will be more blog posts. :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWow|
ReplyDeleteSuper Article. Its really useful for us. Thanks for sharing.
https://www.babybootique.in/
babybbootique.blogspot.com
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHello Admin!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the post. It was very interesting and meaningful. I really appreciate it! Keep updating stuffs like this. If you are looking for the Advertising Agency in Chennai | Printing in Chennai , Visit Inoventic Creative Agency Today..
It is just awesome. Thank you for sharing beautiful collection of lotus baby dress. Click here to see bermuda striped shorts for boys.
ReplyDeleteValuable information and excellent design you got here! I would like to thank you for sharing your thoughts and time into the stuff you post!
ReplyDeleteBaby Girl White Cardigan
Best Kids Clothing Stores Online
Boys Trendy Clothing
Buy Boys Clothes Online
Hey very nice design and Excellent Work, Customized frock design,
ReplyDeleteclick here to see morehttps://juniorscart.com/product-category/baby-fashion/customised-frocks-baby-fashion/,
But Your Design are Fabulous
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey very nice design and Excellent Work, Customized frock design,
ReplyDeleteclick here to see more
Baby Frock
But Your Design are Fabulous
Thank you for a very interesting article. I greatly appreciate the time you take to do all the research to put together your posts. I especially enjoyed this one!!
ReplyDeleteBest Microfiber Towels
Thanks for sharing such a great blog... I am impressed with you taking time to post a nice info.
ReplyDeleteBaby Girl White Cardigan
Buy Boys Clothes Online
Baby Knitwear Sale
Girls Ballerina dress
Nice post, I really love, keep me up to date, If you want to buy Baby Clothes for your Cute baby, you can consider some tips like fabrics - you can buy Cutey Pie Baby Clothes consisting of cotton and these clothes are soft and comfortable and do not irritate baby skins also check buttons & trim. Sleepwear is flame-resistant, Layering - It should not be overbundling. JtcBabyWear is an online store that follows all condition given above. They have a good experience (40 years) to design Cutey Pie Baby Clothes in UK and sell their product in USA, UK, Europe. For more information, visit our website or make a call.
ReplyDeleteForex Signals, MT4 and MT5 Indicators, Strategies, Expert Advisors, Forex News, Technical Analysis and Trade Updates in the FOREX IN WORLD
ReplyDeleteForex Signals Forex Strategies Forex Indicators Forex News Forex World
Shield Security Solutions Provides Ontario Security Training, Security Guard License or Security License in Ontario. Get Started Today
ReplyDeleteShield Security Solutions Offers Security Guard License Training across the province of Ontario. Get Started Today!
ReplyDeleteSecurity Guard License | Security License | Ontario Security license | Security License Ontario | Ontario Security Guard License | Security Guard License Ontario
wow!! it was amazing!
ReplyDeletefree ad posting sites in Bangladesh
Great post!!
ReplyDeletemen's clothing Dubai
women online shopping Dubai
Kids Shoes Dubai
Online Shopping for Women, Men, Kids Fashion & Unisex Dubai
Online Shopping for Men Dubai