This crochet baby dress has a lotus-like pattern in the skirt section of the dress.
This beautiful crochet baby dress is really creative and has been on several people’s “To-do”
list ... and on mine for a long time as well.
The skirt pattern here is a really versatile pattern one and can be
easily adapted for several sizes. Thank you for joining me.
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Cheers. Enjoy
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 185 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use some of our lovely Indian Vardhaman acrylic yarn, Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal 4-ply yarn ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Optional : Stitch
marker
Size made : For
a 2 yr old
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced Skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3
picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in
5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck
sizing here
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the chest /
waist up.
Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.
Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.
These instructions are not that important when
working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a
larger child.
Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest
of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest
measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)
We will then work on the skirt portion of our
dress off the bottom of the yoke.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.
You will take a look at the chart for the yokes,
and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your
chart
There is a link given above for chart on square
neck sizing.
Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a
well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.
And just when you thought we’re going to pick up
our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.
As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses
with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add
flare in this dress.
When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion (esp for a small baby dress), we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.
Remember here that if you alter the pattern
repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting
with on your own
a) In
the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of
sts). So you could reduce the gap
and reduce the number of sts skipped.
b) You
keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3
dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1st
st
c) You
combine both (a) and (b)
All this said, I am going to write the pattern
instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as
you please
PART I : YOKE
Chart 1 Chart 2
Start Row 1 : with fsc for the number of stitches per chart
(i.e according to the yoke size you’re making).
Turn.
Place markers for the four corners of your
yoke.
By the chart that we’re referring to now (say for
the 18 – 24 m), we will count off 10 sts
and place a maker for 1st corner, then count off 13 sts ;
and place the 2nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4th last marker.
and place the 2nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4th last marker.
We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke
which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Note : I am writing the pattern like I have done it but if you are making a larger or smaller dress, please just work till end and not 2 times till end.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc
till the 1st marker ;
“V”-st in the marked st ;
*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in
the marked st* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Before we move any further, a quick note. You need to decide how much of an opening you
need for your buttons at the back.
Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in
rows. Once you have a button placket
that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st,
and work in rounds thereafter.
For little babies, and younger kids, you will
work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’
head properly.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc
till the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in
the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.
So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the
chart.
So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.
So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.
So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our
dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two
ends so that we have a neat round to work on.
Chart 3 - Yoke diagram
PART 2 : SLEEVES
Re-attach your yarn at the armhole and let’s run
a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;
ch 1, sk next
sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc
in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Rounds 3 - 5 : Rep Round 2.
Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*5 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
PART 3 : NECKLINE
Re-attach your yarn at the neckline and let’s
run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next
sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc
in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.
Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*5 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
PART 4 : SKIRT
Chart 4 : Skirt pattern Chart 5 : Skirt pattern detail
Even before we start on our skirt, I’m throwing
a few thoughts out at you.
There is a
chart given here, and the pattern there is partly used in the lovely white
creation (that inspired me). I think,
however, that it may work better for a slightly older child .. with a waist –
by which I mean that for my 2 yr old with a tiny 19” waist, I find the extra
first few lines too many.
I am, therefore, opting to figure the first part
of the pattern out by looking at the white dress and am writing these
instructions accordingly.
Do feel free to choose the write up below or go
with the chart (which is not the same for the first few lines )
Remember as I’ve mentioned before that you can
always add or remove stitches and ch-sps to add to the flare of a skirt or
reduce the laciness of a garment. That
said, let’s start with the skirt.
Our stitch count for the skirt portion is 9.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same
dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next
dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc
; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 1, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In our next round, we will start the next set of
leaves, so see how this beautifully branches out.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2 ,
sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the
next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Just for a moment, put your work down to admire
what we’ve created and also to see how the leaves are emerging.
See how we’ve completed one full leaf bit and
are halfway through the next one.
The following round is a rep of Round 6, but we
will be ignoring that 1st dc which forms the end of the last leaf,
so a small difference in the instructions.
Round 9 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
[ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last
2 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
And I’m sure you’ve not only got the hang of the
pattern, but also figured that we’ve completed one pattern repeat. Rep Rounds 7 to 9 till you are happy with the
length of the skirt for this dress (ending with a Round 9).
Now here’s where you have to put on your
creative thinking cap again. Just
working this leafy pattern all the way to the bottom and ending with just this
will be one beautiful pattern.
However, this pattern has a largish floral base
which I’m going to attempt to write up and create.
This floral border is about 9 rounds. So here’s what you need to do. You need to calculate how many inches
you will add in 9 rounds, and you will need to work the pattern reps above (i.e
Rounds 7 – 9) till you are that many inches less.
So what does this mean?
OK So say your 9 rounds
will add 4.5” and your total dress length is 20”, then when you are just about
15.5” (as measured from the shoulder of your little dress), you need to stop
rep of Rounds 7 – 9 (ending with Round 9) and start working on the instructions
for the border. Does this make sense?
Great then.. off you go and create something
beautiful and we’ll catch up soon.
And we’re back.
You have now completed your reps of Rounds 7 – 9 and have just done that
last Round 9. Beautiful so far, isn’t
it?
Right.. for the next few rounds, we will be
working instructions similar to Rounds 7, 8 & 9 but we’re going to finish
these two leaves we’ve started and add one in the centre as well (Check the
photograph to see what I mean here).
As the instructions are nearly the same, I’m
going to call our Rounds 7A, 8A and 9A and then we will carry on with the numbering.
Please note that you must
not confuse these instructions with what you’ve done before. Thanks.
Chart 6 : Skirt pattern border
Now just to make this a little simpler, let's
work 2 sts backwards here, so that we’re at the start of the 4 dc.
For this turn your work (so you are now working along
the wrong side of your work) and sl-st into the 1st 2 dc. Turn again, and we will start our Round 7A
working on the right side of our work
Round 7A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
ch 2 , sk next dc ,
[2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
See what we’ve done here? The long 4-dc pattern
that we’ve made so far is going to magically open up into this lovely
Lotus-like flower and we’ve just made our first step in that direction.
Round 8A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next
ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the
next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 9A : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next
dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch
2 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc)
;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
In the following round, we’re decreasing at one
part of our flower, and increasing at another part.
Please check the tension of your work, and
increase (or decrease) the ch-sps in-between as desired.
Round 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ; ch
3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
*ch 4, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 4 , dc
3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 4, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, dc
in the next 2 dc ;
rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 11 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next dc, sc on the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 12 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc on the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc 3-tog, 3 dc in the next ch-3
sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sc on the next sc ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;
ch 5, sc on the next sc ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 13 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc on the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
ch 3, sc on the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 14 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;
rep {to} once ;
[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
In our final round, you can work a decorative
picot stitch all around.
We will use the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st
in the 3rd ch from hk).
For a “how-to” on picots, please go to the top
of this blog for an explanatory video link.
You will work the dc in the centre dc of the 3-dc
set.
If you decide not to use the picot stitch, then
you will work the same instructions just avoiding the “+picot” notification all
around.
I will write the instructions without the picot.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 15 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp and in the next 10
ch-sps ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, dc in the next sc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ??
I should
also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink
beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely
as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a
little fabric. I then sewed in the beads
onto that little fabric top. The base of
the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I
think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?
Look for
pictures here
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back
right here for more freebie patterns
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page. Cheers.
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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
Thanks a lot for the breakdown of this beautiful dress. I love making dresses for my baby girl but they can be challenging and I only have two years of experience so I am always learning. I like how you included the charts for the yoke to size it appropriately to your child. I never knew they had already measured out charts like that and it helped me a lot. For some reason I used a 3.5mm hook and 4ply yarn but I'm not getting the same measurement for size when I crochet the number of stitches indicated. I can still make it work but I love your work and will definitely be making another one of your dresses. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your interest and appreciation. So sizing is a bit of an irritant - using different yarn/hook and work tension - but as long as you have the stitch count done, you should generally manage. With yoke, if you do not get the stitch count given with your yarn/hook etc, use the slightly higher or lower yoke pattern and get the yoke to the size you want. Then check the stitch count for the skirt portion and work the lower half of the dress as given. Do share your creations with me - I'd love to showcase them on Facebook (with your permission). Cheers and have a great day
DeleteThank you for your appreciation Nat. Yup.. I try to post a blog a day, so yes, there will be more blog posts. :)
ReplyDeleteA friend sent me the link to this pattern, and I just found it so easy to make following your detailed pattern and measurement charts. Thank you so much. Here's the link to the frock I made - https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/08/beautiful-lotus-baby-dress.html?m=1
ReplyDeleteThanks for taking the minute to stop, comment and appreciate Sandhya.. I'd really love to see a photo too.. the link you added sends us back to this post. Do join me on Facebook (link on the right side of this blog but here for your convenience (https://www.facebook.com/SweetNothingsCrochet) so we can all see and show off your creation.
DeleteVery nice dress!
ReplyDeleteHow do I calculate how many sts I need with a different crochet hook size?
Having hard time understanding the size charts
Hi and thanks for stopping by. Sorry, but with this dress you will need to follow the chart for the top part - It is very hard to specify hook size for different yarns, but if you check the yarn, usually manufacturer informs about which hook works best.
ReplyDelete