The C-2-C stitch is a really wonderful stitch - and can be used in so many ways. I thought I'd use it to make a (wide) headband. I've used this to make a beanie earlier.
Find the beanie / slouch I've made here
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about one 50 gm ball of Anette Eriksson's Jeans yarns (#55) with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue ; embroidery needle International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
For Indians : The yarn I've used is the same thickness as our Indian Oswal 4-ply yarn or Vardhman Millennium and in cottons maybe a bit like Anchor 4-ply , or Gul Era or Vardhaman Crush You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
1) This pattern is from one corner and we increase small squares every row diagonally till we get to the length or width of headband that we need for our project.
2) We then continue working in pattern till we get the circumference we need for our project
3) I have worked a wide headband but you could make a narrow one as well
Oh I have worked the C-2-C stitch for tops as well - Do check them out at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2018/11/vikarna-top-2.html
and two similar tops but not using the C-2-C specifically but working along a diagonal
So what is C-2-C ? It’s just a pattern that goes from Corner to Corner using four stitches that make a little box-like pattern.
In our pattern today, as you are continually work from side to side in a diagonal, it looks like you have worked a basket stitch in the diagonal – and though it is pretty easy, the end result looks complicatedly fantastic !
and here's a video tutorial on how to work a C-2-C. In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/fqMJOc9CHCY
and a photo tutorial for the stitch pattern as well
Now if the photo tutorial and charts do not work, off you go to that video to see how to work the stitch. Once you get the left hand side to the size you want for the width or height of your headband, stop increases and work along till you get the circumference you need
You will then continue increases for the length / circumference, and keep decreasing along the width/height to get the straight line along one end.
keeping the left bottom corner to your left, once you have the breadth needed
you will stop increasing on the right bottom corner of your work. See that flat end - now that's the width of our headband.
and when you return to this end, you join at that last st without increase
and slip stitch all the way back to keep the flat edge
OK, now if this is still confusing, let's look at this in a different way – keeping the left bottom corner to your left, once you have the breadth needed (measuring that bottom bit from left to right till it is the length needed - say 6" for a wide headband), you will stop increasing on the right bottom corner of your work.
As you are still increasing the length, the top left hand side of your work continues increase in pattern as before.
Now once you have the length needed (22" for adult), you will be working the decrease pattern on both the top left hand side as well as the bottom right hand side of your work. This will slowly give you the rectangle shape desired (of 8" x 22" for our adult cap).
Remember depending on the stretch of your yarn, you could work 20 - 21" and get a snug 22" fit for your cap
Note : How do I calculate the circumference needed?
Below see the chart (which is from the general head sizing chart link above).
See the size you want to make the beanie for - if its say a Small Adult, the circumference needed is 22". Now depending on the looseness/tension of your work and the stretch of your yarn, make the first fdc row 22" and then join with a sl-st to make this your first round. Got it?
Finishing Ideas :
There are several ways to end your lovely project. I did not do any of this, but these are ideas to finish
1) Continue the pattern all the way to the end - i.e. to the length you want for your project (which is what I've done) ;
2) Work 1 sc in each st all around to finish ;
3) Work sc and then you could work a round of Crab stitch all around the brim of your project. If you choose to do this, and you're making a headband, then please go back to the first round and work the same pattern that end as well.
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Finally just for kicks, I decided to add a knot to my headband, as you can see. So after working over half the circumference needed (i.e. around 13" for my 22" finish), I made my knot. Why did I do this? Cos I need to measure my length after I've got the knot in - and if I finish at 22" and then knot it, it may end up tight - but that was me - you do you.
How to make this into a beanie?
Go here ... or ...
You will work the pattern in exactly the same way as you would for a headband. You will just work the length to match the project you need. i.e. : If you are making it for Small Adult, the sizing chart specifies that it needs to be 8.25". So you will start the first round with multiples of 6 in fhdc and work till you have that first round 22". Then work the pattern rounds and the repeats till you have a finished length of 8.25"
You now have a cylinder. Using an embroidery needle, run a round of simple running /basting stitch (which is literally pushing the needle and thread up and down through the top of your beanie) all around the end. It does not matter which end you use as both are the same. I'd advise using 2 skeins (or doubling up your yarn) for strength.
Lightly tug on your yarn as you work around till you close that end of the beanie. Continue working running/basting stitches and tugging on your yarn till you have a perfectly closed circle. Ta Da ! Beanie done !
run a round of simple running /basting stitch
Lightly tug on your yarn as you work around till you close that end of the beanie
Continue working running/basting stitches and tugging on your yarn till you have a perfectly closed circle
Whatever you do, this is a wonderful project.
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