Friday, 30 January 2015

DOILEY-LIKE PURSE

Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; photo of the doiley-like purse ;Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; modelled photo of the doiley-like purse ;

Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; modelled photo of the doiley-like purse ;Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; modelled photo of the doiley-like purse ;

DOILEY-LIKE PURSE

A friend wanted a bag for an upcoming event.. so this couldn’t have been more perfect a timing for me!  
This beauty has been on my long list of ‘bags-to-do’ for a while now.. and I’m pretty sure that as I’m whipping this one out, someone is going to share yet another beautiful pattern .. and tempt me yet again !! 
But I love it.. the temptation.. falling into the trap of it.. creating something beautiful and writing out yet another pattern.. so no complaints there.
And looks like you enjoy it all too.. as here we are .. once again !


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Materials used : polyester silk purse yarn in cones  : (a - gold bag photo on left top) ~one cone , with a 2 mm crochet hook for the lighter yarn, 
and (b - gold bag photo right top) ~one cone with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends 

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose  or unbranded knitting cotton as well
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose  ; Red rose metallic or  unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog :  [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times.  One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease. 
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

How to attach a zipper : 


Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI

How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                   sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet          sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                ch : Chain                  
st(s) : Stitch(es)                hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                     
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 4-tog : Double Crochet 4-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

Now what I’ve done here is make the same bag with two different yarns – both are the polyester (silk) yarns, but one is of a 3-4 ply thickness and the second one is made in the finer cobweb ply yarn.  Isn’t it exciting how the same pattern looks so different with different yarns?

Of course, I’ve then had my bag unusually lined as well to give it this finished end product.

(For finishing in India, do contact Mr. Suresh via text message on +91 91675 76825 or find him on his Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Suresh-Novelty-Craft-n-Thread-Store/764751610239578?fref=ts)


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  
Using the pattern as basic inspiration, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you 

Start with a magic circle and 8 sc in that magic circle.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 : dc the 1st ch ; 
*ch 3, dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* 6 times ; 
ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp * ; 
rep *to* 6 times ; 
ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
6 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
sk dc 4-tog , 6 dc in the next ch-5 sp , and every ch-5 sp till end ; 
ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 
2 dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the next dc ; 
*dc in the next dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the next dc* ;  
rep *to* till end , join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 4 dc ; 
2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ; 
dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 6 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the  next dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 8 dc ; 
2 dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ; 
dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ; 
*ch 2, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
dc in the next 13 dc ; 
*ch 3, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
dc in the next 13 dc ; 
*ch 5, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 8 dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 6 dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, [dc in the next dc ; 
4 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;  
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, rep [to] once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, {dc in the next dc ; 
[2 dc in the next dc] ; 
rep[to] 3 times ; 
dc in the next dc} ;  
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over  the next 2  dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
[2 dc in next 2 dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in next 2 dc] ; 
dc in next dc ; ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 15 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;  dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
{[2 dc in next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc] ; 
rep [to] once ; 
dc in next 2 dc ; 
rep [to] twice ; dc in the next dc} ; 
ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
{2 dc in next  dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 
2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 
2 dc in next dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 
2 dc in next dc ; dc in next dc} ; 
ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 : Decrease row : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; 
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ; 
*ch 2, [dc in next 7 dc ; ch 2] ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
rep (to) 2 times* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 : sl-st into the ch-2 sp ; 
[dc in next 7 dc ; ch 2] ; 
rep [to] till end ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 - 20 : Rep Round 18

Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; chart of the doiley-like purse ;

Sweet Nothings crochet free crochet pattern blog ; modelled photo of the doiley-like purse ;

Fasten off then and weave in the ends
Finishing :
Here are a few links on how you can finish your bag up.

a)   How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

b)   Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI

c)    How to attach a zipper : Check this link athttp://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1

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If you'd like  to check out some of my other bag patterns, here goes
















































































































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