FLORAL TOTE BAG
The Floral Tote Bag has a plain base with a burst of flowers around the middle of the tote. The pattern instructions allow you to create a tote bag in any size that you want, using any yarn and suitable hook.
This pattern has been on my radar for a while now, and I'm thrilled that someone else liked it, and I have a chance to make and share it with you.
I also realised that the choice of yarn (which I totally love) makes it hard to photograph... or is it the choice of yarn with this pattern ?
All I know is that it looks way cooler than I'm able to photograph it
So you just gotta take my word for it and try this pattern out yourself. 🤷🏻♀️
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some MAKR 4-ply Cotton , with a 3.5 mm
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Advanced
The pattern section needs advanced crochet skills.
There is a photo tutorial, so come along and work it with me.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
dc : Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
There is a floral pattern in the centre that's the key-point of this lovely creation.
You can make this bag to any size that you want using any yarn with a suitable hook.
As we are going to work different sizes, I am going to explain a few things right here - so you can take off for the first section without a problem.
As you know, I always work my patterns with stitch count, and then work it for the length and width that we need.
Our stitch count for this pattern is in multiples of 4
General information
We will start with a base row in either fsc, fhdc or fdc.
We will then work around the first base row to create a round.
We will then work in rounds till we have a few inches, after which we will start the pattern.
We will then work the pattern for a few inches.
We will then change back to the same stitch (that you chose) for the lower part of the bag to complete.
For ease, if you decide to work e-sc, then start with fsc for the base start row.
If you want to work hdc, start with fhdc for the base start row.
If you want to work dc all through, start with fdc for the base start row.
Our first row is the base of the bag and we will increase twice (i.e. for the next 2 rounds). You can work a further increase if you want a wider bag.
Once you get the width for the bag, we will stop increases and work straight till you are ready to work the pattern.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.
Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypAFoundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with a multiple of 4 sts for the base of your bag. Turn.
I started with 36 fhdc = 8" / 20 cm
Row / Round 2 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till the last st ;
5 hdc in the last st ;
(turn and working on the lower part of the base chain) ;
hdc in each st till the last st ;
4 hdc in the last st.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Read note below before you start this round
This video shows you how to work a fsc chain into a round.
You will use the same principle / idea to work your first row into a round even if you are using fhdc or fdc to start.
In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/DwkKgtGaJMY
Note : For your convenience, you may place a stitch marker in the centre stitch on both sides of Round 2.
So you will place your 1st marker in the 3rd hdc of that corner 5-hdc set.
You will then work all the way down till the last st, then work 3 hdc + place marker + 1 hdc - or alternatively work the last 4 hdc, and place marker in the 2nd last st made.
These will mark the 2 corner sts of your corner 5-hdc sets.
From this round on we will work in rounds all through and join at the last st with a sl-st every time.
Round 3 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till 1 st before the marked st ;
(2 hdc in the st before the marked st ; 2 hdc in the marked st ; 2 hdc in the st after the marked st)
hdc in each st till 1 st before the marked st ;
(2 hdc in the st before the marked st ; 2 hdc in the marked st ; 2 hdc in the st after the marked st)
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Move markers
At this point the width of my work measures 9.5" / 24 cm
I am going to stop increases and work in plain hdc for the next 3- 4" / 8 - 10 cm
Please count your stitches now
Remember I said we need stitches in multiples of 4, so check your stitch count and in the next few rounds, ensure that you add as many stitches as you'd need to get to multiples of 4. In case you are adding many stitches, may I suggest you spread them out over the round. Once you have the stitch count needed, work 1 hdc in each st all around for the next few rounds without increase or change in stitch.
How do you add a stitch? You work 2 stitches in a stitch.
So say you need to add a total of 4 sts, then I'd say you work 5 hdc to start, then 2 hdc in the next st (and you've increased by 1 st already) ; then work say 5 hdc and then 2 hdc in the next st (and you've increased by 2 sts now). If you repeat this 2 more times, you will have increased by the required 4 sts.
Ensure that you count your stitches at the end of your increase round.
In case you think you want a wider bag, please work one more rep of Round 3.
Then you will count stitches and increase as needed.
Right then, as we may be in different rounds, I'm going to start renumbering all over again.
For our pattern we will use the dc 3-tog or double crochet 3-tog.
If you are using a thicker yarn, you may want to look at the hdc 3-tog
I will also start my row/round with a ch 1 for ease.
Half double crochet 3-tog : hdc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/E-WbOP531a4
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Please make a note of the number of stitches you have now
After we complete the pattern rounds, you will need to work the same number of stitches that you had before starting the pattern.
Now before we launch into the pattern, I'd like to explain it to you. Please try to visualise it as that will make this easier.
Our pattern is made of 3 sets of dc 3-tog that are worked into a triangle. This forms the bottom part of our flower motif.
So we start with one dc 3-tog, then work a dc 3-tog into the top of the 1st dc 3-tog and then we work the 3rd dc 3-tog into the same st where we worked the 1st set.
Pattern Round 1 : dc 3-tog in the 1st st ;
(ch 3 + dc 2-tog into the top of the last st ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st st) ;
*sk next 3 sts ; dc 3-tog in the next st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You now have a set of triangles that are the bottom part of the floral design.
Check photo tutorial below
dc 3-tog in the 1st st
ch 3
+ dc 2-tog into the top of the last st (to make a dc 3-tog)
dc 3-tog in the same 1st st
sk next 3 sts ; dc 3-tog in the next st
set of triangles that are the bottom part of the floral design
Now this is the pattern you are going to use for the whole flower.
All you need to figure out is where you need to start the floral pattern.
That said, once you get the first set of petals going, you will see the flower and you'll know just where to work the next set of triangles.
Pattern Round 2 : dc 3-tog in the 1st st ;
(ch 3 + dc 2-tog into the top of the last st ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st st) ;
*sk the next triangle, dc 3-tog in the next st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Here's a photo tutorial for this section of the pattern
dc 3-tog in the 1st st
ch 3
+ dc 2-tog into the top of the last st (to make a dc 3-tog)
dc 3-tog in the same 1st st
sk the next triangle, dc 3-tog in the next st
Rep Pattern Round 2 till you have the width you want for your pattern.
After a few rounds, you will see the floral pattern emerge
Remember that we will work a few rounds of plain stitch (whatever stitch you worked before the pattern rounds) and that will add to the length/height of your bag too.
and now you'll understand why I'd asked you to make a note of the number of stitches you had on that round before the pattern.
We will work only in the top dc 3-tog (which is the 2nd set, lying horizontally on the triangle)
Remember to work whichever stitch you have used for the lower part of your bag before you started the pattern.
Next Round : 4 hdc in the top 1st dc 3-tog st and in each top dc 3-tog st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Next Rounds till end : hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You will work this last round with no pattern all the way till you get the length you want for your bag
Bag handle :
You can attach a separate handle for your bag (i.e. not made from the yarn used thus far) or you can decide to work a handle for it.
Suggestion 1 :
For my I-cord handles, here’s a quick video at https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
Suggestion 2 :
You could also work a simpler handle pattern.
Start Row 1 with as many fsc / fhdc / fdc that you want for the length of your handle.
Turn.
Remember that you need to fold your handle down in half and check it with your bag.
Once you are happy with the length, count the stitches and make a note for the 2nd side or 2nd handle.
Row 2 : sc /hdc / dc in each st all the way down.
Check if you are happy with the width of the handle, else rep Row 2 till you are happy with the handle width.
Suggestion 3 :
You could use this simpler handle pattern above and change it just a bit.
With this easy method you will get an I-cord effect, with a slightly different approach.
For this method you will need a length of thicker yarn (cord - so jute or cotton cord) that will be the length of the two handles for your bag. These pieces of yarn / cord are the inside of your handle, and you will encase them with your crochet yarn.
So work Suggestion 2 pattern such that the width of the work will cover the thickness of your cord. You will then encase the cord in and cover it with crochet. Neat huh?
Suggestion 4 :
This idea uses cord again - so like Suggestion 3, cut 2 lengths of cord.
Then attach your crochet yarn onto the bottom of the cord and start work sc around the cord (such that the sc encases the cord).
The one thing that you need to be careful with here is to ensure that the first stitches are sewn in and onto the cord - else they may slip off and your cord will not be encased - but this is a quick way to make it too.
More embellishments :
I've used this idea for another bag and it was a huge success.
You could add a small bow with some really soft fluffy-ish yarn.
Here’s how I did that https://youtu.be/7jYkh2Pxru0 (in case the link does not open)
Bow : I wrapped the yarn around a book (now the book size depends on how large you want your bow – large as in side to side – and you don’t need a book, you could wrap around your hand or a card board as well). This is just what you’d do when making a pompom. Once you think you have a rolled as much as you think you’d need for your bow (or run out of yarn, in my case ;) ), leaving about an 8” tail, neatly slip the rolled yarn off and wrap that tail bit tightly around the centre. Secure it tightly to make a bow. Attach your bow to the bag from this centre bit so that the two ends of the bow flop cutely.
Mobile pouch :
Finally you could add in a small mobile pouch. Once again, I'd used this in an earlier project and it was much appreciated.
I find that when we go shopping and have our hands all full, that’s when you get a call, and you fish around in your bag finding all kinds of stuff but you probably do not find the phone till the ringer goes off.. sound familiar?
With this easy pouch, the darn phone will be put in it’s place ;)
Mobile phone pouch :
So what I’ve done here is create a large rectangle which I folded in half and then joined sides, leaving an opening at the top.
I started with as many fsc as I needed for the width of my mobile. I then worked 1 hdc in each fsc all the way down to the end.
With each row, I then worked 1 hdc in each hdc all the way down to the end, increasing the length of my project till I had double the length of the mobile phone. Once done, I finished with one row of sc.
With each row, I then worked 1 hdc in each hdc all the way down to the end, increasing the length of my project till I had double the length of the mobile phone. Once done, I finished with one row of sc.
I then folded the rectangle in half, and joined the two sides – working along the longer sides.
I finally worked a tie at one end – which is basically one row of chain and follow it back down with one row of sc OR work a fsc chain (whichever suits you better).
I wanted to ensure that this pouch stayed with this bag – so just before I ended my tie, I passed the tie around the bag handle (securing it to the handle) and then finished off the mobile pouch tie. This now keeps the bag and mobile pouch as one unit.
Do ensure that you make the mobile pouch ‘handle / tie’ long enough to hang inside the bag for security reasons (but you already knew that)
Finishing :
Once you have completed the basic bag, you could use the links below to work the finishing.
a) How to line the bag : http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) How to attach a zipper : http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
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