Sweet Nothings Crochet: JADE CROP TOP

JADE CROP TOP

When I saw this gorgeous jade cotton yarn, I knew I had to use it for something special. I totally loved working on this Jade Crop top. The gorgeous soft cotton yarn with the high bodice, the pert bralet cups and the flurry of tassels at the bottom was a joy to work with - and my client absolutely loved it.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right hand side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 200 gms 100% Kotton knitting cotton with a 3.75 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34 (S/M)

You can make this project to any size. Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3kFirst stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Extended half double crochet (e-hdc) : https://youtu.be/vtbAaieJmnA

Extended double crochet (e-dc) : https://youtu.be/hf8XIciS8AE

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

I found 2 charts and if you can read them, off you go to make your own project.

I think that the first chart will be work for a slighter bust and the 2nd for a fuller bust.

That said the 2nd one probably also offers better coverage because of the rounded top shape.

Right, so we start by making a bralette - so while the pattern is generalised, you can adapt it for yourself with a little adjustment.

The most important thing is that you need to keep a bra ready so that you can 'mould' the bralette onto it and get the right size (well, this is what I did)

It will also help if you have an idea of how long you want this creation, as you can add in tassels after you finish it off.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

How to turn a foundation Single Crochet row into a round :

https://youtu.be/DwkKgtGaJMY

We start with a fsc row. We then work 1 dc all the way to the end, work 5 dc at the end, and turn around and work along the bottom half of the first fsc row.

The link on the top shows you how to work a fsc into a round - so we follow that idea, but we just do not join at the end

Place marker in the 3rd dc of the last 5-dc set.

You will then move marker every row to the centre stitch of the next row.

Before we head further, here's a trick : Work the pattern as given but if you find that the bra cup is larger than what you need, go down a stitch size (i.e. work hdc instead of dc ) or go down a hook size, if your yarn can take it.

Similarly to work one size bigger, go up a hook size or stitch size (work e-dc or extended double crochet, instead of dc - check video for e-dc above)

I have worked hdc for the cup section.

If working hdc, you may have to work more rows than given below.

As always double and triple check (against bra) for your own project

Start Row 1 : with a 15 fsc. Turn ;

dc in the 1st 14 fsc ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the last fsc ; Turn ;

Do not join 2 ends

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the marked st ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch-2 sp ;

dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 3 - 7 : Rep Row 2

Now this is what makes this pattern an advanced skill level

The pattern itself has not been tough, but the decision of how many rows you need to repeat is.

So here is a quick idea - map the bralette you have made on top of the bra I'd asked you to keep handy. It would help if the bra is firm and holds its shape.

Of course the best bet for a good fit is to hold it against yourself or the person you are making this for 😀

I worked from centre top to bottom (along to the marked st) my bralette is 6.5" and across from side to side it is just under 5.25".

We still have 2 rows to go - so the two halves should not meet (across your bra which you are keeping as measure)

Once you have the size you need, fasten off and weave in ends.

Now when do you stop increases?

The 2 cups that we make will be about 1.5" apart meeting at the centre of the chest - So first place your cups onto the bra and see that they fit the mould, and then check the centre distancing so we can work that little centre pattern.

In keeping with my bodice pattern, I worked hdc in the all-dc rows.

2nd last Row : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the centre ch-sp ;

[dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) once] all in the ch-sp ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Note : Mark the centre dc of the 3-dc set in the centre (i.e the [to] centre dc)

Last Row Side 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the centre marked dc ;

3 dc in the marked dc ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Fasten off and leave a tail.

Now when working Row 2 for the 2nd side there's a small difference

Last Row Side 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the centre marked dc ;

3 dc in the marked dc ;

rep *to* till the last 5 dc.

Join this side cup to the other side when working the last 5 dc

Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : In case you are unable to join in the last 5 sts, work the same as for Side 1 and then use an embroidery /sewing needle to join the last 5 sts.

We will now work the bodice or yoke pattern on top of the cups.

Place your work flat and place a marker in the centre dc of both cups.

Re-attach your yarn in the marked centre dc.

We will work between the 2 marked sts from now on.

When we reach the centre of the bodice, we will work a dc 2-tog BUT we will skip a few sts in between. This means we will work one leg of the dc 2-tog in one stitch, miss a few sts and work the 2nd leg and then yo and finish the dc 2-tog st

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

For my convenience, I am renumbering the rows

We will work the pattern till we reach that centre join (of 5 dc) and work the dc 2-tog, and carry on to the other side

Bodice Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the centre join ;

[dc 2-tog over the st from the right side and left side of the cup, skipping the st in between] ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Note : The skipped sts in between in this row are just those 5 sewn sts from the earlier row

Bodice Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) till one st before the centre dc 2-tog ;

[dc 2-tog over the st from the right side and left side of the cup, skipping the st in between] ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Bodice Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till one st before the centre dc 2-tog ;

[dc 2-tog over the st from the right side and left side of the cup, skipping the st in between] ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Rep Bodice Rows 2 & 3 three times

Rep Bodice Row 2 once

Fasten off and weave in ends.

We will now work a base below the cups.

Re-attach your yarn at the bottom corner of your work.

Let's work one row of lattice all through.

Now along the bottom we do not have regular sts, so first we can work a row of sc (if that's convenient for you.

Work a row of sc all through - remember that we usually work 1 sc in each horizontal bar of the dc. That said, the number of sts worked does not matter, BUT it must be a flat set. It also helps if the number of sts on the right side and left side are the same (as counted from the centre)

Lattice Bottom Row 1 : dc in the 1st sc ;

(ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Lattice Bottom Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Lattice Bottom Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Rep Lattice Bottom Rows 2 & 3 two times

Rep Lattice Bottom Row 2 once more.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now here comes your creativity :

1) You can add ties to the side right now ; OR

2) You can work an extension to the bottom bit for the back as well ; and then add buttons ; OR

3) You can work an extension to the bottom bit for part of the back ; and then add ties

1) To work ties straight off, check the video link below

How to make shoulder and back ties : https://youtu.be/K5N771OXLu4

2) To work an extension, attach yarn to the side and work side to side for each side section. You can either work the pattern as we have - or work plain sc / hdc / dc up and down all through.

Finishing :

Let's work a round of picot all around for a neat finish

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Re-attach the yarn at the bottom of your work and work a round of picot all around.

I have worked a 3-ch picot every 3rd st ; (so sc in 1st 2 sts ; sc + picot in next st) all around.

When I came to the shoulder corners, I worked the shoulder tie.

I worked 75 ch and then worked sl-st all the way back till the shoulder ; then worked the top centre portion and worked the next shoulder tie in the same way.

I then worked the side ties as I reached the sides of my bodice ; then worked the bottom till I reached the second side to work the tie and the the final side to finish.

Final finishing idea

This looks gorgeous as it is too - but here are ideas on how to add tassels and play with them too.

I had a little bit of yarn left and decided to add tassels.

How to make tassels : https://youtu.be/Ct84H8iBa9s

How to make a small pattern with your tassels : https://youtu.be/Pt5BMW_OlAg on

side view showing side coverage of Cascading Crop Top

Full view of finished Cascading Crop Top

Have fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/04/jade-crop-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/04/clam-shell-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/04/choco-ripple-crop-top.html