SHAHATEER TOP
Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet’s free patterns blog.
Shahateer means Chevron in Hindi - so now the name for this top makes sense, doesn't it 😁
My creations require a little bit of calculation - but I'm here holding your hand all the way. Just read the instructions carefully and you're good to go.
Read all the way to the end to see how you can make this into a crop top.
As I work on this pattern with the chart I found on the net here are my notes.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some Milford Satin (Satin Tyrian Purple) 2-ply cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used twice as thick as our Indian Vardhaman / Oswal acrylic yarns or Laura knitting cotton .
You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size. Using chunky yarn just means that the project zooms ahead that much faster. So if you want a thicker yarn, just use a few strands together.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn ; but you could also use Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky to make this pattern - even if not for a top
Difficulty level : Advanced
Size made : 34" (S/M)
Size only given for yarn estimation.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
ch(s) : chain(s ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s) rep : Repeat
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
sk : Skip lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)
dc : Double crochet
Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Chevrons are so adaptable, aren't they?
This is not my original pattern. I found this chart on the web. There are, however, my original notes as I work on my project
How do we work this pattern into a top?
1) For today's pattern, we start at the bottom of the top and make our way up to the neckline and shoulders.
2) The first row, worked in foundation single crochet (fsc), will be for half the round waist or bust (whichever is the largest measure). In case you want a longer top, you will take / check the round hip measure as well.
3) You will work the stitch count for the half round measure you want (Read detail above)
How do we work this pattern into a crop top?
A crop top is just a shorter top and ends just below the bust (just a little below the bra line). You will use the half round bust measurement and work the same pattern all the way to the shoulder.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 20 + 2
Start Row : with fsc in multiples of 20 + 2 for the width you want for your top. Turn.
I started with 122 fsc = 23"
Note : With chevron patterns, your start row needs to be more than needed, as the pattern scrunches up stitches to make the arrow heads and decreases the length.
I'm using 2-ply yarn - so you may not need as many stitches.
To get this first row of stitches is a bit of a bother, but once you have it set, you're done.
Make sure you keep a note of the number you start with so you don't need to worry for the second side.
Note 1 :In the following row we will work two types of dc 2-tog over 2 fsc, skipping fsc in between)
1) The first one is worked at the start and end - and you skip one fsc in between
- so over 3 sts.
This means : 1st leg of dc 2-tog in St #1; Skip St # 2 ; 2nd leg of dc 2-tog in St #3
I will call this a Special dc 2-tog 1
2) The second one is worked all through the work - and you skip 3 fsc in between
- so over 5 sts.
This means : 1st leg of dc 2-tog in St #1; Skip Sts # 2, 3 & 4 ;
2nd leg of dc 2-tog in St #5
I will call this a Special dc 2-tog 2
Row 1 : Special dc 2-tog 1 over Sts #1 & 3, skipping St #2 in between ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*[ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc ; ch 3, dc in the same fsc] ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
{ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, Special dc 2-tog over 2 fsc, skipping 3 fsc in between] ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 sts ;
Special dc 2-tog 1 over 3rd St from end & last, skipping st in between. Turn.
Note 2 : Once again we work a slightly different dc 2-tog at the start and ends
End dc 2-tog : dc 2-tog is worked over 3 sts :
The 1st leg of dc 2-tog is in the 1st st ; sk the ch-sp, & 2nd leg of dc 2-tog is worked in the next st
Centre dc 2-tog : dc 2-tog is worked over 5 sts :
The 1st leg of dc 2-tog is in the 1st st ; sk the dc 2-tog and 2 ch-sp on either side of the dc 2-tog, & 2nd leg of dc 2-tog is worked in the next st
Row 2 : End dc 2-tog 1 over Sts #1 & 3, skipping ch-sp in between ;
*(dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[2 dc in the ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
{dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp
rep {to} 2 times ;
Centre dc 2-tog over the next 5 sts, skipping 2 ch-sps in between* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 sts ;
End dc 2-tog 1 over 3rd last & last st, skipping ch-sp in between. Turn.
Row 3 : Special dc 2-tog 1 over Sts #1 & 3, skipping St #2 in between ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*[ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
{ch 1, sk next 3 dc, Special dc 2-tog over 2 dc, skipping 3 dc in between] ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 sts ;
Special dc 2-tog 1 over 3rd St from end & last, skipping st in between. Turn.
That was not too hard now, was it?
This completes our pattern formation.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole. Before you rush off, please read the instructions below, so you decide when to stop.
Now here’s where calculations come in.
1) You can work a rectangle (with the width being the fsc chain you start with and the length being the height you need from chest/bust to shoulder.
When done, attach the two shoulder parts and sides, leaving an armhole. This will give you a small boat-like neckline and you will get a tiny sleeve.
The advantage with this creation is that you do not really need any calculations - just width and length.
2) Work in a small armhole shaping.
If you want a shaped armhole and neckline then you need to calculate.
The chart below gives you approximate sizing (in cms).
So if you want to shape an armhole, you will work (per chart) 31/33/34 cm from base (fsc start) line ; and work your pattern 4.5 - 5 cm off the edge to get the armhole shape. The pattern then is worked in a straight line till you need to shape the neckline.
As you can see, the shoulder measurement given is 9 - 10 cm ; and the neckline opening is 12 - 14 cm (half measure shown in chart)
For the back, the chart shows that you work 1.5 cm higher for neckline.
Use these as a guide - but as always I suggest that you keep a well fitting top as a draft as well.
Below are general ideas for neckline calculation as well.
For armhole :
The simplest way to decrease is to go straight to the stitch just before the first ch-3 sp, and work the pattern from there.
When we end, we will work till the last ch-3 sp and work the decrease there.
We've done this pattern for quite a bit, so I'm quite sure you'll have figured it out, but here goes.
We will work a dc 2-tog to start. The dc 2-tog will be worked over the st just before the ch-sp and the 1st ch-sp. This means that the 1st leg of the dc 2-tog is in the st before the ch-3 sp, and the 2nd leg of the dc 2-tog is over in the 1st ch-3 sp.
Armhole decrease : Row 1 :
sl-st till the st before the 1st ch-3 sp, dc 2-tog over that last st and the ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
*{ch 1, sk next 3 dc, Special dc 2-tog over 2 dc, skipping 3 dc in between] ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
[ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till the st before the last ch-3 sp ;
dc 2-tog over the ch-3 sp and the last dc. Turn.
and that's our decrease done in one row.
From now on you will work in pattern from end to end till you get to the neckline level.
The armhole will be a neat straight line
Armhole decrease : Row 2 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the next ch-sp ;
*Centre dc 2-tog over the next 5 sts, skipping 2 ch-sps in between ;
(dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[2 dc in the ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
{dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp
rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Armhole decrease : Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
*{ch 1, sk next 3 dc, Special dc 2-tog over 2 dc, skipping 3 dc in between] ;
rep (to) 3 times
[ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times * ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Armhole decrease Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the point you want to start decreasing for neckline.
How to check? This is what I usually suggest : Place your work over a well-fitting top to see if neckline depth / plunge is right
OR check the chart above for measurements
OR visit https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/ for body size charts.
Neckline shaping :
a) Fold your work in half and figure out the two corners for the neckline.
Place markers there.
I suggest that for ease, you work till a ch-3 sp on the pattern and work a dc 2-tog over the last st and the ch-sp like we did for our armhole shaping. In the following rows, you will follow the pattern for the armhole shaping.
You may need to figure this just a bit, but you are now very familiar with the pattern, so I'm sure you'll manage.
b) We will use these markers for our first row and will work from one armhole corner to the 1st marker and back.
c) We will then work from the armhole to marker & back all the way till the shoulders. d) We will then fasten off and work the mirror image for the second shoulder.
e) For the second shoulder, you will re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker and work from the marker to the armhole and back
f) As with the first section, you will work just from marker to armhole & back till you reach the same level as the first side for shoulder.
g) Fasten off and you have finished the front of your yoke or top
We’ve completed one side / front of the yoke (or top).
Mirror these instructions for the other side / back for the yoke or top, deciding only how deep you would like the neckline for that section.
Join both shoulders and sides, on completion.
Use one of the joining methods given below
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, though chevrons are generally easy patterns, this one has had its ups and downs, but has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!
Sleeve ideas :
You can leave this creation sleeveless too - but here are ideas for making the sleeve
1) We will work one round of sc all around the armhole opening and join at the end to the 1st st. Check that you have the stitch count multiples needed.
2) We will work in rounds in pattern for the sleeve, joining at the end of every round.
3) Make a note of this number of stitches you work for the first armhole, so you can work the same number for both sleeves
The stitch count for our sleeve is in multiples of 20
So when you work the first round of sc all around the armhole opening, ensure you get a count in multiples of 20.
Remember as before that chevrons tend to scrunch the pattern up - so you may need to work a round (or two) and see if it opens up sufficiently for the top of the arm.
The pattern is the same that you have worked for the body, but we join at the end of each round and we start and end with a Special dc 2-tog (so over 5 sts)
Sleeve Round 1 : Special dc 2-tog over 2 fsc, skipping 3 fsc in between ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*[ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc ; ch 3, dc in the same fsc] ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
{ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, Special dc 2-tog over 2 fsc, skipping 3 fsc in between] ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now we need to work the Centre dc 2-tog to start, but we're in the middle st.
SO what I have opted to do is Turn and sl-st to the st on the left (when you are on the wrong side of work).
Once in that dc, Turn again, and you are on the right st for working the 1st Centre dc 2-tog.
This worked for me - but if you find some other way that works for you, please do let me know.
Sleeve Round 2 : Centre dc 2-tog over the next 5 sts, skipping 2 ch-sps in between ;
*(dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[2 dc in the ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
{dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp
rep {to} 2 times ;
Centre dc 2-tog over the next 5 sts, skipping 2 ch-sps in between* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
For the start of the rep, once again I have turned my work and sl-st into the 1st dc to get to the place I need to be to start my round with the Special dc 2-tog.
Yet again, this worked for me - but if you find some other way that works for you, please do let me know.
... and that's our pattern done !
Rep Sleeve Rounds 1 & 2, for the length you want for your sleeve.
I suggest that you end on Sleeve Round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends
Re-attach yarn for the 2nd armhole and make same sleeve
Optional sleeve finish :
You could work a picot if you like to finish your sleeve round
If you do, may I suggest that you work the picot in every alternate st and in the ch-3 sps (in between the "V" of your chevron).
This is how I'd work it, if I did a round of picot.
Picot round for multiples of 2 :
sc in the 1st st ;
*(sc + picot + sc) in the next st ; sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* all around and join to the 1st st with a sl-st.
Here's a video tutorial for the picot stitch.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4sNeckline Finishing :
You can leave the neckline as it is, or work a round of sc (with or without picot) to match the sleeves.
You could also work a round of hdc all around the neckline for a neat finish.
You can then work a round of picot all around (to match the end of your sleeves)
Then you need to weave in and tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!
And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
I have a few yokes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
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