Sunday 10 April 2022

PIXEL SWEATER

 Pixel Sweater - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

PIXEL SWEATER

The stunning colors of the Azurite acrylic yarn worked really well for this Pixel sweater.  The drop shoulder pattern with a cowl neck and snug sleeve cuffs and fitted waist makes for a great unisex garment.
A self striping or multi coloured yarn would mean that you have less ends to weave in, but using a multitude of colors just allows your creativity to go a little wild - so what kind of creator are you?  😃

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 450 gms of of the awesome Azurite acrylic with a 3.5 & 4 mm crochet hook
Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.  Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Vardhaman / or Oswal acrylic yarns.  Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn 

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn and other 4-ply acrylic yarns. The other international yarns I would use for this pattern are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)
You can make this project to any size.  Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 
The pattern and the stitches itself are easy, but the calculations and the attachments are a wee bit tricky.
That said, do come along and you may just realise you are able to do more than you thought you could!

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc :  yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ; 
yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.  
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizinghttps://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ 

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet         sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
                                                                                          
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

For this pattern we will start at the base of the top and work all the way to the shoulders and then carry on to the back of the top - all in one continuous round.
We just split (and not work) a few rows for the neckline.

Now I have decided to work in a round just because I want it seemless but if you find this confusing, please go ahead and make one front and one back and attach along the sides.

You need a few measurements before you start :
1) Full Length  (from shoulder to base of sweater)
2) Round chest measurement
3) Depth (or dip) of neckline / Round neck 
4) Round armhole measurement
5) Round waist
6) Length of sleeve (remember this is a drop shoulder*) 
7) Round wrist / cuff
* Drop shoulder means that the shoulder of the sweater is not directly on the body shoulder but slightly off.  So you will need to remember this when you are actually making the sleeve so that it fits right at the cuff.

You can make this project to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.

The stitch count for our pattern is in uneven numbers
(Stitch count means the number of stitches we start with to get the pattern going)

So before we start, remember that we are working bottom up - so the first row is worked along around the round waist.  We will work a rectangle that goes from waist to shoulder.
We will then add on the cowl neck ; add on the sleeves and finish it off.
The sleeves are made from cuff up and attached to armhole
As this is a drop shoulder (i.e. the shoulder of the sweater does not rest directly on the shoulder point of the body, but off it onto the arm), the sleeve length calculation needs to take this into account.  If you calculate the sleeve length from the shoulder (of the body), then the sleeve will hang beyond the wrist.  Got it?

For our first row, we will work just the base of the sweater.  Decide how wide you want this and work as many stitches as you need for this width.

BASE OF SWEATER
base of the Pixel Sweater
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc :  https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA 

Start with a 3.5 mm crochet hook for the base of the sweater
Start Row 1 : with 12 fsc (= 2 1/2" ) or the width you want for the base of your sweater.  Turn.

Half double crochet back loop only (hdc-blo) : https://youtu.be/mMZhS37JP2k
Row 2 : hdc-blo in the 1st st & in each st till the end.  Turn.

We're working back and forth using hdc-blo and this is for the width of base cuff of your sweater.  So we will work this for the half round waist of your garment.

Rep Row 2 till you have the half round waist measurement for your sweater.
What does this mean? If your round waist is 36", you will work two strips in the above pattern till you have 18" each.

Once we finish the base strip, we will work the body of the pattern.
Do not cut yarn when you finish the base strip.  We will continue with the body of the sweater directly after the base is finished.


BODY OF SWEATER
Body pattern for the Pixel Sweater
Change to a 4 mm crochet hook for the body of the sweater
For the body, we will work off the top of the base strip.  
As mentioned before do not cut yarn when you finish the base strip.
So to start, we will work a row of sc all the way along the top of the belt-like base.
You have worked 12 sts so far along the width of strip, now you will work along that longer length of the same strip. Got it?

Start Row 1 : 2 sc in each hdc-blo (along the horizontal bars of each st) till end.  Turn

We will now work the Linen stitch that makes the body of the pattern.  
Here is a video tutorial for the Linen stitch.

Work in pattern (Linen stitch) all the way from the base of the sweater till you reach the shoulders.

What to keep in mind : The rectangle /square we are creating is from waist to shoulders - so ensure that you keep the round chest and round waist measurements in hand and if needed, increase as needed to get to the round chest measure.

You will make make two halves and then attach the shoulders, leaving a neck opening ; and attach the sides, leaving an armhole opening

SLEEVE OF SWEATER
Sleeve of the Pixel Sweater
For the sleeves, we will make a cuff and then work the rest of the sleeve in Linen stitch like we have for the base and bod of the sweater.

So for the cuff, work 12 fsc or as many fsc as you want the width of the cuff.  Then work hdc-blo for the round wrist measurement.
Once you have the cuff done, do not cut yarn, but continue working along the longer edge of the cuff to get the sleeve length.
We work with the Linen stitch again for the body of the sleeve.

Remember that as we have worked a square / rectangle for the body of the sweater, you will have a "drop shoulder' presentation (i.e. the shoulder of the garment will not be on the shoulder of the body).  This means that the sleeve length is not from the actual (body) ; so do check this when you are reaching the end of the sleeve.

The simplest way to check this is to get the person (you are making this for) wear it and measure the length.

The end of the sleeve needs to be the same as the round armhole measurement.  this is also the same as the opening you have left on the body of your sweater.

Use one of the methods given below to attach the sleeve to the sweater body

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

NECK OF SWEATER
Cowl neck of the Pixel Sweater

Full Pixel Sweater
For the neck, I have two ideas :
1) Keep it plain and just make an edging
2) Add a cowl

1) To keep it plain, work a few rows of sc all around the open end of the neckline
This is simple and keeps it neat.
You could work the Crab stitch or Reverse single crochet stitch all around the ends
for a simple neat finish
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

2) For the cowl : You continue to work in pattern all along the open end of neckline till you get the length you want for the cowl.  A cowl could be just one that goes up along the neck, or one that goes up and has enough material to flop back down.
All we are doing is working a cylinder like section that will automatically become a cowl.  How cool is this, eh?

I know you have had fun working on this totally creative project with me.
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Have a great day and see you soon. 

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..and some belts..