GRANNY SQUARE 4 for Hundred Hands
If you have been following me, you know that I have been merrily making squares
for a donation called Blankets of Love. All we need to do is make 8” x 8”
squares (20 of them make one baby blanket of 32” x 40”) and send it off locally
(i.e. within India) to help spread smiles. Do go and check out their Facebook page by the same name (Hundred hands or Blankets of Love) to see how
you can join in too.
And thank you all for joining me in spreading smiles.
As I started on my journey, I was gifted one set of yarn.
I made a blanket with that and managed to make 62 squares as well.
I was talking about this donation to a friend, and she asked if she could send me some of her unused stash.. Of course I jumped at that, and I could hardly believe the large parcel that landed the very next day!
Thank you so much Nazneen for your awesome contribution :)
This full set of squares are from yarn sent to me by my this lovely friend, Nazneen. She wanted to make these squares and contribute too, but as she is tied up presently, I have made them for her.
Thank you for joining me.
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mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn
You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit.
Skill level : Advanced
This pattern uses several yarn colors and one must know how to change and work with several colored yarns simultaneously.
Size made : 8” x 8”
Sizing chart for blankets :
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839582572/
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Instructions : Using U.S terminology
For today’s square, I am going to tweak the last pattern I’ve used (with the blue
yarns) and see if we can get something spectacular with these bright
yarns. Come along, let’s create some beautiful stuff today.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for free video tutorials of all the stitches used in
this pattern.
I am sure there are several such squares out there - but as we needed 8” squares
specifically, this is what I have done. These are my notes for my original creation.
Now while you can work this whole pattern in one colour, you get this fantastic
effect only when worked with several colours.
So here are a few videos to see how to neatly change colours
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
And off to the pattern.
With this pattern we will work with four colours in each and every round. So
you will start with Color 1, change to Color 2, then 3 and finally end with Color
4 in each and every round.
For convenience, let’s name them C1, C2, C3 and C4.
Furthermore, to avoid a lot of wasted and carried yarn on the back of your work, we will turn at the end of each round. We will therefore be working one round with the right side of your work facing you, and the next round with the underside of work facing you. This also means that you need to be that much neater, and always remember which side is your top side.
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc :
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch-3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and using C1, work 3 dc in that circle ;
change to C2 and work 3 dc ;
change to C3 and work 3 dc ;
change to C4 and work 3 dc ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn. (12 sts)
Round 2 : (with underside / wrong side of work facing you)
(Using C4) 2 dc in each of the 1st 3 dc ;
(Using C3) 2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
(Using C2) 2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
(Using C1) 2 dc in each of the last 3 dc ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn. (24
sts)
Please check the Note just below and see if you want to work Round 2 or Round 2A
Note : Now here’s where it starts getting a little more
complicated. As I did not want any extra unnecessary spaces, I have
worked a round of 2 dc per stitch without any spaces.
Now we will work our next set of 3 dc (for Round 3) in the space just before the 2 dc. Yes, there is no ch-1 sp, but there is that small 'stitch' space and this is where I plan on squeezing in my 3 dc
As you are advanced crocheters, we’re going to manage this and we’re just going to
call this ‘space’ (so that for those who choose to work Round 2A, the ch-1 sp
is the space here).
That said, if this gets too confusing for you, here is what you could do for Round 2
instead.. I’m going to call this Round 2A (A = Alternative)
What is a chain stitch ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 2A : (Using C1) 2 dc in each of the 1st 3 dc ;
(Using C2) ch 1, 2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
(Using C3) ch 1, 2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
(Using C4) ch 1, 2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
ch 1, and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st. Turn. (24 sts)
Once again please check the note below to see if you are using Round 3 or Round 3A
Round 3 :
(Using C1) 3 dc in the 1st
space (which is between C4 and C1) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C2) sk next 2 dc, 3
dc in the 1st space (which is between C1 and C2) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C3) sk next 2 dc, 3
dc in the 1st space (which is between C2 and C3) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C4) 3 dc in each of
the 1st space (which is between C1 and C4) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
Yet again, I have chosen to reduce the spaces in between and have worked 3-dc sets
without a space in between. This means that for the next and all rounds
hereafter, we will work in the sp between the 3-dc. The only place we
will work a ch-1 sp is for the four corners.
That said, if this is confusing, work ch-1 sp between each of the 3-dc sets.
That means you will work Round 4A
Round 3A :
(Using C1) 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C4 and C1) ;
Ch 1, [sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C2) sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C1 and C2) ;
Ch 1, [sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C3) sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C2 and C3) ;
Ch 1, [sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C4) sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C1 and C4) ;
Ch 1, [sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
Once again we’re working without ch-sps between the 3-dc sets. If you want the
ch-sp, go ahead and add them.
Round 4 :
(Using C4) 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C1 and C4) ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C3) sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C4 and C3) ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C2) sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C3 and C2) ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C1) sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the 1st sp (which is between C2 and C1) ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
That’s easy, isn’t it?
Now in each corner we will work our corner stitches = (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) all in
the same corner sp.
Once again, we do not have a space at this point (i.e if you have not used the "A" patterns I mean), so we just work in that space before stitches, OK?
Round 5 :
(Using C1) {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the 1st sp} (which is between C4 and C1) ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C2) sk next 3 dc, {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next sp}
(which is between C1 and C2) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C3) sk next 3 dc, rep {to} (which is between C2 and C3) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(Using C4) sk next 3 dc, rep {to} (which is between C1 and C4) ;
[sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
Please put your work down now and look at your beautiful four coloured square.
I know you know what you are going to do next. We just keep increasing this
beautiful square, ensuring you work the right colors in the right spaces, and
work the {to} corner space stitch in each corner.
Basically, you have your square done. Presently my square is about 4.5”
(unblocked). So you can stop right here and make squares of this size.
Else come along with me and let’s work a few more rounds.
Round 6 :
(Using C4) 3 dc in the 1st sp between sts ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sk next 3 dc , {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 corner sp} ;
(Using C3) 3 dc in the 1st sp between sts ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sk next 3 dc , {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 corner sp} ;
(Using C2) 3 dc in the 1st sp between sts ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sk next 3 dc , {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 corner sp} ;
(Using C1) 3 dc in the 1st
sp between sts ;
[sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the sp between the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
sk next 3 dc , {3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 corner sp} ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
Now with each round, you will increase one 3-dc set on each side with each round and work the {to} in each corner space.
Continue rep Rounds 5 & 6 increasing stitches, for as many rounds as you need for the size of square that you want.
At the completion of each round, fasten off and weave in all ends.ß
May I also suggest that you block your squares before joining (as per yarn
instructions).
Once you have made as many squares as you want for your blanket, use one of these joining methods for a neat join.
With the four color combination of colours, we have several possibilities for our
blanket. Place all your completed squares down and play with the color
combo first before starting to join.
Have a creative time.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Using this same pattern, and working a different combination of yarn colours, this is what you get. Can you believe that the squares look so different with just one small color tweak?
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
