Men do not have too many articles of clothing with crochet, do they? I find that many of our patterns look 'girly' - as did my client - so I went off to create a new pattern that suited his requirement. I've made two similar patterns using the seed stitch - but each has a small twist.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about one 50 gm ball of Anette Eriksson's Neon Blue Jeans yarns (#55) with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue ; embroidery needle
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
This pattern is worked top down (i.e. from the crown to the base of the beanie)
In today's pattern we will turn at the end of every round.
In case the video does not open, please go to https://youtu.be/NLRf3mQJ9FA
The video shows seed stitch using hdc, but we're using dc and sc.
Start Round 1: Increase round : with a magic circle and work (1 sc , 1 dc) in it ;
Rep (to) 5 times ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (12 sts)
Round 2 : Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the same st ;
(dc in the next sc ; sc in the same st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (24 sts)
Round 3 : Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
1 sc + 1 dc in the next st ;
*(sc in the next st ; 1 dc + 1 sc in the next st) ;
[dc in the next st ; 1 sc + 1 dc in the next st]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (36 sts)
We are alternating dc and sc as you can see
Round 4 : Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st ;
*(dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st) ;
[dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (48 sts)
Check the circumference calculations below to see if you are at the size you need for your project. If this is the case, please go straight to Round 8
Round 5 : Non - Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next st ;
(dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (48 sts)
Round 6 : Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ;
1 sc + 1 dc in the next st ;
*(sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st) ;
[dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ;
1 sc + 1 dc in the next st]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (60 sts)
This should be just right for a 21-22" beanie
Check the circumference calculations below to see if you are at the size you need for your project. If this is the case, please go straight to Round 8
Round 7 : Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st ;
*(dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st) ;
[dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
1 dc + 1 sc in the next st]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn (72 sts)
This should be just right for a 23-24" beanie
Round 8 : Non - Increase round : dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next st ;
(dc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn
Round 8 : Non - Increase round : sc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next st ;
(sc in the next st ; dc in the next st ;
rep (to) all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn
Rep Rounds 8 & 9 till you have the length you need for your beanie.
Then scroll down to the Finishing section below
Circumference calculations :
For head wear, I advise that you make the beret / beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.
Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
This works for all sizes - so for 3m you will work the round till you have 16 divided by 3.14 = 5.09 (so 5" diameter)
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Now depending on how thick your yarn is ; how much stretch your yarn has and how loose / tight your working tension is, I’d suggest that you work till you have about 2” less than the total circumference needed.
Finishing :
There are several ways to end this lovely beanie
1) Continue the pattern all the way to the end - i.e. to the length you want for your beanie ;
2) Work till you are about 1" from the end and then work 1 sc in each st all around - do this for 2 - 3 rounds or till you are at the length needed
3) Work sc for one 1 - 2 rounds and then you could work a round of Crab stitch all around the brim of your cap.
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Whatever you do, this is a wonderful project.
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I have a few pieces of headwear already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
