Sweet Nothings Crochet: COQUILLE SKIRT

COQUILLE SKIRT

Thank you for joining me as I work on yet another gorgeous project - our Coquille skirt which is a little fish-tailed with a lovely fall.

Coquille is French for Shell, and this is a beautiful shelled skirt.

This is my original pattern

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 170 gms of 3-ply acrylic with a

3.5 mm crochet hook

One does not usually use acrylic but this was what my client asked for

For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton as well. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 28-29"

You can make this skirt to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

How to seamlessly crochet in rounds : https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

dc : Double crochet

ch : Chain sk : skip

st : Stitch sl-st : Slip Stitch

rep : Repeat

hdc : Half double crochet

trc : triple/treble crochet

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet

Instructions (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

In today's pattern, as with many of my patterns, there are loads of ideas given to give you a chance to be really creative.

Now why do I give you so many options? Well, we are all creative creatures.

We just need a little push - and not be forced to adhere to a pattern in total.

So find that creative genius in you.

Open that Pandora's box and be amazed.

Come along, and let's see how we can work on this gorgeous creation today.

Part 1 : Belt

The stitch count for our skirt is in multiples of 9

We start with the belt that goes around the waist.

Now there are two ways to do this - you can either work in rounds from the round waist or you can work in a row and work the round waist but turn at the end and leave an opening where you can attach a set of buttons or zipper.

So if the round waist and round hips measurements are not too different, you could use the round hip measurement to start and work in rounds.

You will then work in an elastic or a cord for a belt.

There is a video tutorial for an I-cord at the end of this blog.

Now if you are doing this, you could use this video tutorial , and the loop your cord through the top loops easily.

Please note that this video tutorial for the belt in multiples of 10.

So go ahead and work this pattern, but at the end , ensure that you get the stitch count of multiples of 9

In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/1kfyKesObWQ

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

I have worked in rounds, but you could work in rows, keeping a small opening around the back and attached a button.

In case you want to work in rows, then turn at the end of each round.

Start Round 1: with fdc and working in multiples of 9.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : hdc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 3 - 8 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : Work Round 3 for as wide as you want your belt.

For the skirt portion, we are going to work in rounds.

Ensure that the belt, with its opening, now goes around the hips too.

I'd suggest that you join with a sl-st on the last hdc round, but you could also do it in the first pattern round of the skirt.

Part 2 : Skirt

The stitch count for our skirt is in multiples of 9

Please check your stitch count now.

For convenience, I'm restarting numbering of our rounds

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Shell stitch : (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same stitch or chain space

"V"- stitch : (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same stitch or chain space

In case this video tutorial does not come on, please go to

https://youtu.be/G-GL3o2WWYA

Round 1 : Shell stitch in the 1st hdc ;

*(sk next 2 hdc, "V"-st in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) once ;

sk next 2 hdc, Shell st in the next hdc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From now on, we will work our Shell stitch and "V"-st in the ch-sp of the earlier st.

Rounds 2 - 4 : Shell stitch in the 1st Shell St ;

*("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

Shell st in the next Shell st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : This portion keeps the pattern a little flat or "A"-lined.

In case you are making a longer skirt (than mine), please work as many rows as you want to increase the length.

Once we start the pineapple pattern, the length cannot be increased.

So how do you know when to stop this pattern and start on the pineapple? You need to calculate gauge.

SO what is gauge : Gauge here, is the length that you have achieved in the last few rows. So far we have worked a total of 4 rows for the skirt. How many inches have you got?

Say you have 2 inches (or 1" for 2 rounds) :

- we have a total of 20 rounds for this pattern, so that means you have to calculate now many inches you'll get in the balance 16 rounds.

-If you had 1" for the 1st 2 rounds, you will get (16 rounds / 2 rounds = 8")

- Now add all the numbers together :

- Add the width of your belt, + the calculation you just made and see if you get the length you want for your skirt.

That will give you a rough indication of the length you will get - and accordingly you need to adjust the length for your skirt by adding a few rows, if needed of Row 3. Easy enough, right?

Note : As always, I've requested you to read through the pattern.

There is a possibility of increasing a few inches in Round 20 as well.

So think about how wide you want your belt, how long you want the first few rows and then work the pattern accordingly.

.. and back to our pattern

I will, however, continue numbering - so even if you have added a few rows, you will come back and work Round 5.

Round 5 : 8 dc in the 1st Shell St ;

*("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

8 dc in the next Shell st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 6 times ;

*("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] 8 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Round 7 : sc in the 1st dc ;

[ch 3, sc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 6 times ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next dc ;

rep [to] 7 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 6 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If you are an advanced crocheter, you could opt to finish with a dc instead of the last ch-3 sp. That will ensure you are in the centre of that last ch-sp and you can start right there.

Remember though that you will be working one rep [to] less, but you knew that too.

If you find it confusing, follow on with me.

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 5 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 4 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

ch 3, rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 3 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

*ch 2, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

"V"-st in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

*ch 3, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

5 dc in the ch-sp of the next "V"-st ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, ("V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;

[ch 2, 2 dc in the the next dc] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

ch 2, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 15 : ch 3, "V"-st in the 1st "V"-st ;

*[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

ch 2, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 : sl-st into the 1st "V"-st ; dc in the same "V"-st ;

*[ch 2, dc in the the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

(ch 2, dc in the next "V"-st) ;

rep (to) once ;*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, dc in the last "V"-st ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 17 - 19 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;

[ch 3, dc in the the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

*ch 3, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;

rep [to] 5 times ;*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, "V"-st in the last "V"-st ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Once again you have a chance here to add a few rounds of this same pattern, and increase the length of your skirt a bit.

Do all your creativity now before the last border round.

Border Round 20 :

{2 dc in the the 1st dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc} ;

*(ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

[ch 1, 2 dc in the the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, 6 dc in the next "V"-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1 , and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Easiest I-cord : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI

Of course, this is only if you have worked that first belt idea and have the loop holes. If you have done that , then you could also, take the easier option and just loop in a convenient thin belt you have at home.

You could also decide to just work a long length of fsc, and then work a sl-st / sc or hdc all the way down till the end. This give you a neat cord as well.

You could add a few beads at the end of your belt as well, not just for show but to prevent the belt from slipping out of the loops every time you wash it ;)

How to attach a zipper :

http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1

And just like that… we’re done with this brilliant creation. Aren’t you thrilled with what you have made here today?

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Here are some of my earlier creations.

Have fun with these lovely unusual patterns too.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/10/faux-diamond-skirt.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/11/divine-long-ladies-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/03/suchis-lil-skirt.html