DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT
Like the famous ABBA song goes, I had a dream, to
make a long flowing skirt.. and in that dream I thought it would be with these
little pineapples that just exploded into larger and lighter ones , cascading
all the way to the floor.. well, thanks to Pinterest, someone else had that
dream too and wrote a convenient chart for me.. so I’m saved the trouble of
scrunching my face up to make the chart.. I just enjoy the creative process of
making this lovely, long, flowing skirt.. so come along with me and let’s smile
while we make this super creation.
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Inspired by one of the wonderful free floating freebies
over the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with
you.
Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose metallic
knitting cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn
.. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d
want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.
Right off, I’m going to request you to please
ensure that you do share my blog when you make this exquisite creation… and
when you do share it, please share the actual URL / page link and not
just my name. Thank you.
Materials used : Red rose metallic knitting cotton (nearly 20 balls) ~ with a 3
mm crochet hook.
The amount of yarn needed depends on the length and waist of the person intended. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project. For a good fall though, lighter yarns will work better, so Anchor works too.
The amount of yarn needed depends on the length and waist of the person intended. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project. For a good fall though, lighter yarns will work better, so Anchor works too.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : Waist 27" Length 37" ; Bottom flare ~ 170"
You can make this to any size you want, using any yarn with a suitable hook
Skill level : Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Abbreviations used :
hk : Hookyo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochetdc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s
take a look at what we’re going to do here.
So we start our pattern from the waist and as we
move down, there is a small flare that is brought on by the lovely hanging
pineapple border.
So if there is a
really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for
this skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :
a) Use a
tie-cord to bring the waist together. This has two advantages – not only
do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a
lot more flair for your skirt. In case you decide you want to do it this
way (rather than fitted), then you work your counts for your start line
stitches to go around your (or intended) hips. You will need a
line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.. so I’d suggest
you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all
around. You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.
b) Experienced
crafters can work in an even increase every alternate row to give the finished
skirt a slight “A”-lined effect followed then by the border.
With this pattern, I am going to use the lovely fdc
to start. I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is
worth all the work.
However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead. You will then start with multiples of 37 + 2 and work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook, and work 1 dc in each ch till end. At the end of your row, ensure that you have multiples of 37.
So our stitch count is in multiples of 37.
Work a small swatch to
check your gauge and see how many repeats you need to get the waist round for
your project.
We’re going to work in rows for the first few rows,
and then work in rounds.
Now, as each of
us will have different waist / hip sizes that we’re working with, please work
the opening at the back to suit your requirements.
Now there are two ways to work the skirt
calculation. You can either calculate
for the round waist, and then keep the opening large enough to cover or go around
the largest part of the lower body and then you will work for these first few
rows back and forth
or you could just work the top (round waist area)
measure in such a way that it covers the largest part of the body, and then
affix an elastic tape along the top of the waist band – such that it neatly
stretches and then you can work in rounds all through.
I am also going to be giving the instructions per
chart.
I am going to work in rows back and forth for the
first few rows, making a small opening at the back to ease in the hips. I will then work in rounds.
My instructions, therefore will be in rows
and then rounds accordingly.
If you feel that you need several more rows to work
the hips in, then please continue working in rows till you have the
right measurement, and then work in rounds thereafter.
One cheat / trick to increase width of your garment
faster is to increase the spacing between stitch groups. So if , for e.g, the pattern reads ch-5 , dc
in etc, you just make that a ch-6 and work the rest of the pattern. That way,
you will be increasing one ch per repeat without changing the pattern, but
increasing unnoticeably.
Do note though,
that you will need to add this ch all through the pattern else the shape of
your skirt may change – i.e you may not get the proper gradual shaping desired.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start with fdc as per your
requirement. Turn.
We have the first of our “V”-sts from this row on.
Our “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same
st or ch-sp.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 1 :
“V”-st in 1st fdc ;
*(ch 5, sk next 6 fdc, “V”-st in next fdc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, sc
in the next fdc ;
[ch 5, sk next fdc, sc in the next fdc] ;
rep [to] 7 times ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, “V”-st in the next fdc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till
end. Turn.
From now on, all “V”-sts will be done in the ch-1
sp of the earlier “V”-st.
Row 2 :
“V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 2,
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 6 times ;
ch
2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 :
“V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 3,
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 4 :
“V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 3,
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 5 :
“V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 3,
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st “V”-st
Note 1 : As I am happy with the back
opening, I will work in rounds here on, and join with sl-st at the end of every
round. If you still need a longer back opening, please work in rows back and
forth and join with a sl-st to that 1st “V”-st when you reach the
opening length you need.
Note 2 : You will notice that at that
point where we’re joining our two sides, we have four “V”-sts
together, whereas all around we have only three “V”-sts. In the round after you have joined, (so for
all those of you who are joining now in Row 5, this applies right now), you
will work your “V”-st over the two “V”-sts. This means that you will work 2 dc in one
“V”-st and then second half of the same “V” st, (i.e. ch 2 and then the 2 dc)
in the next “V”-st. This will
conveniently reduce one “V”-st
without changing the pattern at all.
Please check the round measurement at this point to
ensure that you are going to be able to get the skirt around the largest part
of the lower body before continuing.
Note 3 : As all of us may be working
different back opening lengths, I am not going to specify where you need to do
this “reduction start V-st” , so instructions below will not indicate
it. Ensure though that you have only three “V”-sts between the filigree lacy
work all around.
Note 4 : Our following row is an increase
row. We will be working 9 dc in the
centre “V”-st. Now at the point where we
start, we have those 4 “V’-sts that we need to make into 3, and we are also
supposed to be working 9 dcs in that centre “V”-st. So what I’ve done is work 9 dc over the
existing two “V’-sts, thus killing both these birds at one stone.
Round 6 : Increase row :
*{ch
3, dc in the next 2 dc ,
5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ;
(ch 3,
“V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next
ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : If you’ve joined at the back of
this row (making this a round), may I suggest, for your own convenience and for
a neat finish, that you sl-st all the way back to the first of the 9 dc on this
first set.
Instructions will be given assuming that that is
where you are.
Round 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 6 times ;
(ch
3, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the
next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 8 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 6 times ;
(ch 5,
“V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
rep
(to) once ;
*rep {to} 8 times ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] 2
times ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 9 : sc
in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
(“V”-st in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 2
times ;
“V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 10 : sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
ch 3,
“V”-st in next “V”-st ;
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
rep (to) 4 times
;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 11 : sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 3 times ;
(ch 3,
“V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 3 times ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 3, sc in
the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 12 : sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
(ch 4,
“V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 4 times ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 3, sc in
the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 13 : sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
(ch 4,
“V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 2 times ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 4, sc in
the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Our following row / round is a rep of Round 6 , in
a way.
So let’s break this down to make
it a little simpler.
In Round 13, you see that we have five sets of
“V”-sts.
Now in the following round, our
increases will be in the 2nd and 4th “V”-sts , and
this is where we will be starting off our two new pineapples.
So “V”-st # 1, 3 and 5 stay as
“V”-sts.
Simple enough , right ?
Round 14 : Increase round :
sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} once ;
(ch 3, “V”-st
in next “V”-st) ;
*{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , 5 dc in the ch-1 sp ,
dc in the next 2 dc} ;
rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc
in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
The next round is also an increase round.
In this round, we will increase in between
the two pineapples that we’re starting out.
This is a preparation for the next set of pineapples which will come in
between these two pineapples we’re just creating.
So you see how we’re growing our pattern, and
adding pineapples..
Round 15 : Increase round :
sc
in the ch-5 sp ;
*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in
next “V”-st) ;
ch 3, dc in the 1st dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
rep {to} 7 times ;
[rep (to) once ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same “V”-st]
;
ch 3, dc in the
next dc ;
rep [to] 8 times ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the
next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 16 : “V”-st
in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 2, sc in the
1st dc ;
{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 7 times ;
[rep (to)
once ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp] ;
* ch 2, sc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 8 times ;
ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep
(to) once ;
ch 5, “V”-st in next ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 8
times ;
ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 17 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 3, sc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 6 times ;
ch 3, (“V”-st
in next “V”-st) ;
“V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the
next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 7 times ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 18 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 3, sc in the
next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to]
once ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 6 times ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 19 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 3, sc in the
next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
rep [to] 3
times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 5 times ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 20 : “V”-st
in the 1st “V”-st ;
*[ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;
ch 4, sc in the
next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 3 times ;
rep [to] 3
times ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
And we’ve successfully completed one repeat.
Our pattern repeat are Rounds 6 – 20.
So if you look at this pattern you’ll see that we
are starting the new increase round here, in between the earlier pineapple, and
our next pineapple will start in between these pineapples. I am sure you know what
I mean.
Remember that as we’re increasing pineapples with
each pattern repeat, we will need to increase repeats within each round as we
go around.. but I’m sure you knew that too.
Right then, continue these repeats till you have a skirt of the length you need.
The beauty of this pineapple
pattern is that you can end it at any time… well, that’s what I’ve done. Once my skirt reached the full length needed,
I ended, without worrying about the pattern at that point.
The only finishing
that I’ve ended with is a picot on that last round.
I used the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st
into the 1st ch)
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go
ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to
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hi
ReplyDeletei couldnt follow the ROUND 16. can you help me with that step. TIA
Hi and apologies for my delayed response. So there are a multiple set of brackets / parentheses in this full pattern. Just work each bracket as it comes, and then repeat the next set (of brackets). Sometimes there's a (to) and then a [to] and it probably all comes together with a {to} .. so you will then work the {to} with the (to) and [to] bits in between. Does this explain it?
Deletehi ..do you have video tutorial of this skirt???i really need it
ReplyDeleteSorry.. but presently just this written instruction as tutorial..no video for this one
DeleteHi! I am curious to know how to give the lining cloth for this skirt as this is a see-through pattern?
ReplyDeleteSo I attached a (full long underskirt) at the waist band so that it could be worn as one piece - but you could also sew a separate underskirt for this garment.
Delete