The Herringbone Beanie has a lovely angular , almost spiral look as the stitches lie down sideways. This is another pattern that looks complicated but isn't. Today's project is completely reversible ; and there are two ideas / patterns right here.
Oh, I've also made a handbag & you can get that free pattern here
Thanks for joining me. Come along, let’s create something beautiful
I have been given another bag of yarn and requested to make beanies & warm wear for the homeless. I'm hoping that there's going to be even more yarn - which also means there will be more patterns discovered and written.
I've used the half herringbone stitch to make a beanie here
- and this is very similar. We use the double crochet stitch to work this pattern with the herringbone (we used the hdc to work the half herringbone stitch, if you recall).
This stitch can be used to make a bag, scarf, wrap as well, but today let's make a beanie
I've made the Herringbone beanie in two ways, & you can get both patterns right here on this blog.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 70 gms 4-Seasons 8-ply acrylic with a 5.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to about 1.5 strands of our Vardhaman / as well as Oswal acrylic yarns or Laura knitting cotton.
You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size. Using chunky yarn just means that the project zooms ahead that much faster. So if you want a thicker yarn, just use a few strands together.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn
You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit.
Difficulty level :
Size made : Adult beanie : 22" x 8.25"
Size only given for yarn estimation.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch
dc : Double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.
Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.
PATTERN 1
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st st & in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)
Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next st ;
(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)
At this point the diameter of my circle is almost 5".
This gets me to a finished circumference of 20-22" (with my yarn, hook and looseness of work), so I'm stopping here. Please scroll down to the Pattern Rounds now if you have the same diameter.
For a lighter hand or tighter tension, please carry on till you have a diameter of at least 6 - 6.5"
This pattern does not open out too much
Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 2 sts ;
(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 2 sts) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)
Round 5 : 2 dc in the 1st st ; dc in the next 3 sts ;
(2 dc in the next st ; dc in the next 3 sts) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60 sts)
Please check the top of this blog for a head measurement chart and /or the bottom of this blog for circumference calculations.
We start our herringbone pattern with the stitch of the same name.
As we may be on different round numbers, I am going to renumber pattern rounds starting from 1.
Hbdc : Herringbone double crochet stitch
Pattern Round 1 : Hbdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Pattern Round 1 till you have the length you need from crown to brim.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
PATTERN 2
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)
We work our Herringbone or Hbdc stitch from now on.
Round 2 : 2 hbdc in the 1st st & in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)
Round 3 : 2 hbdc in the 1st st ; hbdc in the next st ;
(2 hbdc in the next st ; hbdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)
At this point the diameter of my circle is almost 5". This gets me to a finished circumference of 20-22" (with my yarn, hook and looseness of work), so I'm stopping here. Please scroll down to the Pattern Rounds.
For a lighter hand or tighter tension, please carry on till you have a diameter of at least 6 - 6.5"
Please check the top of this blog for a head measurement chart and /or the bottom of this blog for circumference calculations.
Round 4 : 2 hbdc in the 1st st ; hbdc in the next 2 sts ;
(2 hbdc in the next st ; hbdc in the next 2 sts) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)
Round 5 : 2 hbdc in the 1st st ; hbdc in the next 3 sts ;
(2 hbdc in the next st ; hbdc in the next 3 sts) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60 sts)
As before, I am going to renumber pattern rounds starting from , as we may be on different round numbers
Pattern Round 1 : Hbdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Pattern Round 1 till you have the length you need from crown to brim.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
....and I've made it again using a slightly thicker yarn - and the stitch shows even better. I don't know what yarn this is, as it's lost it's label - it's all part of a large stash of yarn and much of it is unlabelled
Circumference calculations
Here's a great way to check circumference
To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.
Remember that yarn stretches - so if it's a bit snug, it's good
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
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Here are some of my other creations.
and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cup-cake-scarf
and a matching cowl at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teer-cowl
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leher-beanie and a matching scarf at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lehar-scarf
with a matching cowl https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-cowl
and a pair of fingerless gloves https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-fingerless-gloves
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