Sweet Nothings Crochet: BIRCH CREATIVE BEANIE

BIRCH CREATIVE BEANIE - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This is a quick project for my friend’s mum – all she asked for is a nice beanie with a nice yarn. Birch creative has some lovely yarns and this is a simple pattern so I know she’s gonna be happy.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Australian) Birch Creative acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

General yarn info : Todays yarn is not specific for this pattern. Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this beanie to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : Here’s an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs

Back post single crochet : bpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpsc at https://youtu.be/L1K_MMLl-D4

How to seamlessly crochet in rounds : When working with head wear, this is a really neat way to seamlessly end each round. Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to this at https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing : here or here

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

fpsc : Front post single crochet

bpsc : Back post single crochet

fphdc : Front post half double crochet

bphdc : Back post half double crochet

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern.

Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.

I have chosen to work my beanie in hdc.

In case you are using a thicker yarn, you may use a sc and get the same wonderful effect.

Remember that whatever stitch you decide to use, you need to work in that 3^rd loop to get the Camel stitch effect.

Also remember that we will work in spirals which means that you will not join a the end of each round.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 10 hdc in it. Do not join.

Start working on the 1^st hdc right away.

Place a marker on the last hdc (10^th st) and remember to move the marker every round.

We will work the Camel stitch all around in a spiral way, without joining.

Our increases are done the way we do all increases for headwear, just using the Camel stitch instead of a regular stitch and as we’re working our beanie in hdc, we work the Camel stitch in hdc.

Here's a video tutorial for working the Camel stitch with hdc.

In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/mqeLOv0oOU0

Round 2 : (Increase round) :

Camel st using a sc in the 1^st hdc ;

Camel st using a hdc in the same 1^st hdc ;

(2 Camel st using a hdc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

Round 3 : (Increase round)

Camel st using a hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

(2 Camel st using a hdc in the next hdc ;

Camel stitch using a hdc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

Round 4 : (Increase round)

Camel st using a hdc in the 1^st 2 hdc ;

(2 Camel st using a hdc in the next hdc ;

Camel stitch using a hdc in the next 2 hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

Round 5 : (Increase round)

Camel st using a hdc in the 1^st 3 hdc ;

(2 Camel st using a hdc in the next hdc ;

Camel stitch using a hdc in the next 3 hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

Round 6 :

Camel st using a hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

Round 7 : (Increase round)

Camel st using a hdc in the 1^st 4 hdc ;

(2 Camel st using a hdc in the next hdc ;

Camel stitch using a hdc in the next 4 hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker. (60 sts)

At this point, please check the circumference to see if it’s the right size.
To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.

If it is, continue without any further increase till you get the length you want for your beanie.

In case you need a wider circumference, please increase one more round.

Rep Round 6 till you reach the length you want for your beanie.

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Right then, back to the pattern sheet.

Optional finish with a flap :

In case you decide to work in the flap, you will first work till you are at the length you need and then work the flap bit. The flap will just fold over so I’ve worked a different st. We will work in post stitches for the flap.

First work one round of hdc all around.

Here’s a neat video tutorial for the brim. In case the video does not come on, go here

Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk

Back post half double crochet : bphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bphdc at https://youtu.be/9jJHgDX2MsE

As you’ve managed so well without joining, you could continue all the way to the end without joining and have a seamless finish.

However, you can get a beautiful project even if you decide to join at the last st.

Next round : Work a hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

We will now work post stitches for the flap.

Flap round 1 : Work a fphdc around the 1^st hdc ;

(bphdc around the next hdc ; fphdc around the next hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st.

Flap round 2 : Work a fphdc around the 1^st fphdc ;

(bphdc around the next bphdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st.

You do not need the marker anymore.

You will just work a fphdc around each fphdc and a bphdc around the next bpdc – so you don’t even need to look at the pattern as this is all you do.

Continue rep Flap Round 2 till you get to the length you wish for your fold down flap.

In your last round, for the last 3 sts (just to get the stitch length right), work a post st using sc in the second last 2 sts and then work a sl-st in the last st. You can work a sl-st for about 2 – 3 sts to get it to a neat slide too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Block as per yarn requirement, if needed.

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/coffee-bean-beanie.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/vikarna-beanie.html