OFF-THE-SHOULDERS
CROPPED TOP (4)
Yes,
this seems to be the *in* thing right now, and I am thrilled to make yet
another off-the-shoulder top. For this
one, I plan on keeping a simple body pattern so that all the stunning effect of
the top collar / off the shoulder-ness is in full vision ;) !
I actually started writing my blog to help Indians figure out how we can use our slightly smaller range of yarns. I find however, that now there are many Non-Indians who want suitable yarns as well.
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This
photograph seems to be making its circuit around the net a lot, and I am unable
to find a pattern for it. These are my
notes for what I am doing to get this top done.
Enjoy.
Here is the photo (in blue below) that got me
kick-started with this project. I do not
know if there is a pattern/chart for this lovely creation. I do not claim that this is my original
project but I do state that this white top has been made by me inspired
by this photograph.
Please
remember though, that it is nice if you could share my blog link for this
pattern when you make your product – after all, it helps to pay it forward
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 150 gms of our local superb Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook
Note :
Hook recommended is 2 – 2.5 mm. I am
using a 3mm as I like the extra stretch and lightness that it will gives my
yarn.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
In
case you work with some other yarn that gives you a great end result, I’d love
if you could share, so I can add it to this list so we could help someone else
along. Cheers.
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For
this pattern, we’re going to work in a slightly different way.
We will start at the waist and work our way
up to the armhole / shoulders.
Of course
as this is a cropped off the shoulders, there is no shoulder on this pattern,
but as we need *someplace* to call the *top*, let’s keep that the shoulder.
So
you can work this in two ways – you can work two halves for the front and back,
and then join it along the sides OR you can work it as one rectangle that wraps
around the chest portion (like a tank top).
So
what’s the difference? The only
difference is in the fit.
If
you want a really tight/good fit, I’d suggest the 2-rectangles idea.
If
you would like just a little ease, then the 1 large rectangle that will wrap
around the chest will work.
Either
way, you will need the round chest and round waist measures.
You will also need to decide how long you want the top,
and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking
this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round
waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the
mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start
with.
Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to
take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is
slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.
Please note that as always you can make this top any
length you want and for any size – just read through allllllllllllll my
detailed instructions. Thank you
I’d like to quote Twinkie Chan who said “If I were able to leave you with only one
piece of crochet advice, it would be to always have fun. Learn the basics, but
then just go crazy with your crafty self!” So let’s create something here, and have fun!
Part
1 : Front and Back
I am going to work 2 rectangles, one each for the front
and back. I urge you to do the
same. Please read through my notes just
a little further down to see why.
We will work two identical halves for this
pattern.
There is no shaping for this top, and we will be
working only two rectangles that will make up the front and back portion OR we
will work one rectangle that will work like a bustier / tube top and we will
then attach on the lovely frilly collar that will serve as a shoulder and off
the shoulder piece.
There is no shaping for the armhole, and our first row
will be just under the armhole and just above the bust.
Deciding whether to start top down (from armhole down
to waist) or bottom up (from waist to armhole) all depends on the waist and
bust measurements.
If there is not much of a difference in measurements,
you do not need to worry about whether it’s worked top down or bottom up.
I am going to add an elastic right around the top (i.e
behind the first few rows). The round
measure that you will then need to start with will be the round chest / bust
measure. Of course you will also need to
figure out how long you want your top – so if you are working this as a long
top, then you will need to check which measure is larger – chest or waist, and
use the larger measure to start.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 1
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with
fsc in multiples of 3 +
1.
Note:
If you are making two halves (one each for front and back), you will make a
start foundation single crochet chain length = half the round chest /waist(depending
on how long you are making your top)
Henceforth,
whether you are working one rectangle tube top pattern , or two halves, you
will follow the same pattern.
In
the following row, we will work our “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the
same st or ch-sp.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc :
*sk
next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc* ;
rep
*to* till 3 fsc ;
sk
next 2 fsc, dc in last fsc. Turn.
In
the following row, we will work our “V”-st in the ch-sp of the earlier “V”-st.
Rows 2 - 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
“V”-st
in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the last dc ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
In
the following row, we will work our Shell st in the ch-sp of the earlier
“V”-st.
Our Shell st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2
dc)
Now
here’s a neat tweak. As you will see,
magically there will be a small increase in the width of our top, and it will
get a nice shape. This is why, though we
are just working a rectangle, it will get a bit of shape, especially when
working with 2 rectangles.
The shaping
will work when working with one rectangle too, but it ‘could’ get a little puffy
under the armholes… I am not sure as I have not worked the single rectangle
pattern… I just visualize it that way in my mind.
That said, IF you decide to
work a single rectangle using this pattern and find it does not become
under-armhole-puffy etc, please do message me / add it as a comment to
this blog and I’ll edit it in for future reference.
As
I always say.. pay it forward. Cheers.
Moving
on…
So
after working a few rows, if you find that you need a little more shaping, add
a chain to the Shell st and make it (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc).
Just
this one ch, will make a small difference.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
Shell
st in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the last dc ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
In
the following row, we will work our Shell st in the ch-sp of the earlier Shell
st.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
Shell
st in the next Shell st and in each Shell-st till the last dc ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
And
this is our pattern done..a one-line rep.
Rep
Row 5 till you reach the underarm (or basically the length from under arm /
armhole to waist), which is where we are ending this top.
Part
2 : The off-the-shoulder piece
Before I started on this, I checked to see that the
bustier / tank top fit well. I then
decided where I wanted the collar / off-the-shoulder bit to be.
We will work the collar separately and then join it
onto the top of the bustier / tank top just made.
1.
So whip out your measure tape and take a measurement
for around the shoulders.
2.
Check the round measure for the top of the project
you’ve just made
3.
Divide the difference (of the around shoulder measure
minus the top of project measure) equally by two.
4. What does
this mean? If the around shoulder measure is 42” and your round bust is 34”,
then the difference (42 - 34 = 8) divided is 4” each side. This means that you will need to add 4” per
side for the collar to fit onto the shoulders. Got it?
5.
We will be making a chain length for the difference (so
in above example we will make a chain length for 4” each side). Easy enough,
right?
Our stitch count is in multiples of 21.
1.
Count the number of stitches you have for your front
and back top rows.
2.
Calculate how many stitches make an inch (i.e work your
gauge)
3.
Calculate how many stitches you’d need to get the
around the shoulder bit
4.
Ensure that you have the stitch count repeat of 21.
Start : with as many fsc as needed (for
one side of your collar keeping in mind the four very important points above +
number of stitches on the top row of the tank top) x 2. Keeping this fsc chain flat, join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat
without twisting when working with a longer chain length
We
will now work our full project for the collar in rounds.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc all around. Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*dc
in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch
2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
the following row onwards, we will use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc)
all in the same st or ch-sp
Round 5 : sl-st into
the 1st ch-2 sp ; “V”-st
in the same 1st ch-2 sp ;
“V”-st
in the next ch-2 sp and in each ch-2 sp all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
now on, we will work each “V”-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier “V”-st unless
otherwise mentioned.
Rounds 6 - 8 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same “V”-st ;
“V”-st
in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st all
around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 9 :
sl-st into the 1st “V”-st , sc
in the same “V”-st ;
*ch
3, sk 2 dc, sc in the space between the next 2 “V”-sts ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc
in the middle of the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 9 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ,
(dc, ch-3, dc) in the same ch-3 sp ;
*[ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ; rep [to] 6 times ;
ch
3, rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep
*to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now before this gets too complicated, let me explain
and really simplify it.
See the (to) we’ve worked, now we will be working the peaks of our patterns here, and in between the two peaks, we will be working just ch-3 sps, so it will form the ‘valleys’ of our pattern.
In case you have any confusion, just
ensure that you work the dc pattern bits in the ch-sps of the earlier dc bits,
and we are cooking with gas.. got it? ;)
Round 10 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ,
(dc ; ch-3, dc) in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch
1, dc in the next dc ;
*[ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
ch
3, dc in the next dc ;
ch
1, rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
1, dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
ch
1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now does my
earlier clarification look a little clearer ? ;)
If you’ve got the hang of what we’re doing, go off and
create the peaks and valleys – else come along …
Round 11 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ,
(dc ; ch-3, dc) in the same ch-3 sp ;
{ch
1, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ;
*[ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch
3, dc in the next dc ;
ch
1, rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep
{to} 2 times* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
ch
1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rounds 12 - 15 : Continue rep Round 11 , increasing one more
{to} rep each round and reducing one [to] rep each round till you are at the
last round.
You
will see the peaks and valleys of your lovely collar form as you work.
Last Round 16 : Continue rep of Rounds 12- 15, but in
the centre of the peak or (to), we will work (dc in the dc ; ch 1, dc in
the ch-3 sp ; dc in the dc) for this last final round. This just gives a thickness and more
definition to that final peak.
Optional Last Round 17 : Work a sc in each st and ch-sp all
around.
Note :
I worked 1 sc per ch-1 sp ; 2 sc in ch-2 sps etc, and 1 sc per dc. This gives
the final round a little weight and holds it down. It also adds definition to the final round.
Part
3 : Finishing
We now have the two fronts and one collar.
1.
Go ahead and join the front and back halves of your
bustier / tank top.
2.
Fold bustier in half and mark the centre front and
back.
3.
Fold collar in half and mark centre front and back.
4. Pin down the
collar from the centre front to about 5” from both ends of front and back. The unpinned section of the collar becomes
the off the shoulder / strap portion of your bustier.
5.
Before
finally attaching, may I suggest that you run a rough stitching line through
and check that the sizing works.
6. Use of the
attachment methods given above to join the collar to the body of the bustier /
tank top.
7.
Attach
a small piece of elastic along the top of the bustier, neatly hidden under the collar,
if required.
8.
If
you feel like it, you can attach a single line of fsc / chain that will work as
an almost invisible strap that goes from the front to the back of the top, over
the shoulder.
9. Block as per
yarn instructions.
I
think this has been a totally enjoyable and creative journey. We have a stunningly beautiful top that we
can be oh, so proud of.
Enjoyed
this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
How do I make it a rectangle? It seems more like a simi circle and is getting wider with each row ( trying to do the two rectangles and then put them together) or how do I narrow it....
ReplyDeleteHi Andrea, so the rectangle bit is for the crop top/bustier for Part 1 of the pattern. To keep it narrow, you could use really thin elastic that you weave in when crocheting - a little tricky to do, but it works. It will cinch both the top and bottom of the tube top (around bust and around waist). Hope this helps.
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