Sweet Nothings Crochet: OFF-THE-SHOULDERS CROPPED TOP

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OFF-THE-SHOULDERS CROPPED TOP (4)

Yes, this seems to be the *in* thing right now, and I am thrilled to make yet another off-the-shoulder top. For this one, I plan on keeping a simple body pattern so that all the stunning effect of the top collar / off the shoulder-ness is in full vision ;) !

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This photograph seems to be making its circuit around the net a lot, and I am unable to find a pattern for it. These are my notes for what I am doing to get this top done. Enjoy.

Here is the photo (in blue below) that got me kick-started with this project. I do not know if there is a pattern/chart for this lovely creation. I do not claim that this is my original project but I do state that this white top has been made by me inspired by this photograph.

Please remember though, that it is nice if you could share my blog link for this pattern when you make your product – after all, it helps to pay it forward

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 150 gms of our local superb Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

Note : Hook recommended is 2 – 2.5 mm. I am using a 3mm as I like the extra stretch and lightness that it will gives my yarn.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

In case you work with some other yarn that gives you a great end result, I’d love if you could share, so I can add it to this list so we could help someone else along. Cheers.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

For this pattern, we’re going to work in a slightly different way.

We will start at the waist and work our way up to the armhole / shoulders.

Of course as this is a cropped off the shoulders, there is no shoulder on this pattern, but as we need *someplace* to call the *top*, let’s keep that the shoulder.

So you can work this in two ways – you can work two halves for the front and back, and then join it along the sides OR you can work it as one rectangle that wraps around the chest portion (like a tank top).

So what’s the difference? The only difference is in the fit.

If you want a really tight/good fit, I’d suggest the 2-rectangles idea.

If you would like just a little ease, then the 1 large rectangle that will wrap around the chest will work.

Either way, you will need the round chest and round waist measures.

You will also need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

Please note that as always you can make this top any length you want and for any size – just read through allllllllllllll my detailed instructions. Thank you

I’d like to quote Twinkie Chan who said “If I were able to leave you with only one piece of crochet advice, it would be to always have fun. Learn the basics, but then just go crazy with your crafty self!” So let’s create something here, and have fun!

Part 1 : Front and Back

I am going to work 2 rectangles, one each for the front and back. I urge you to do the same. Please read through my notes just a little further down to see why.

We will work two identical halves for this pattern.

There is no shaping for this top, and we will be working only two rectangles that will make up the front and back portion OR we will work one rectangle that will work like a bustier / tube top and we will then attach on the lovely frilly collar that will serve as a shoulder and off the shoulder piece.

There is no shaping for the armhole, and our first row will be just under the armhole and just above the bust.

Deciding whether to start top down (from armhole down to waist) or bottom up (from waist to armhole) all depends on the waist and bust measurements.

If there is not much of a difference in measurements, you do not need to worry about whether it’s worked top down or bottom up.

I am going to add an elastic right around the top (i.e behind the first few rows). The round measure that you will then need to start with will be the round chest / bust measure. Of course you will also need to figure out how long you want your top – so if you are working this as a long top, then you will need to check which measure is larger – chest or waist, and use the larger measure to start.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 1

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 3 + 1.

Note: If you are making two halves (one each for front and back), you will make a start foundation single crochet chain length = half the round chest /waist(depending on how long you are making your top)

Henceforth, whether you are working one rectangle tube top pattern , or two halves, you will follow the same pattern.

In the following row, we will work our “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc :

*sk next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till 3 fsc ;

sk next 2 fsc, dc in last fsc. Turn.

In the following row, we will work our “V”-st in the ch-sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Rows 2 - 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

In the following row, we will work our Shell st in the ch-sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Our Shell st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc)

Now here’s a neat tweak. As you will see, magically there will be a small increase in the width of our top, and it will get a nice shape. This is why, though we are just working a rectangle, it will get a bit of shape, especially when working with 2 rectangles.

The shaping will work when working with one rectangle too, but it ‘could’ get a little puffy under the armholes… I am not sure as I have not worked the single rectangle pattern… I just visualize it that way in my mind.

That said, IF you decide to work a single rectangle using this pattern and find it does not become under-armhole-puffy etc, please do message me / add it as a comment to this blog and I’ll edit it in for future reference.

As I always say.. pay it forward. Cheers.

Moving on…

So after working a few rows, if you find that you need a little more shaping, add a chain to the Shell st and make it (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc).

Just this one ch, will make a small difference.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

Shell st in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

In the following row, we will work our Shell st in the ch-sp of the earlier Shell st.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

Shell st in the next Shell st and in each Shell-st till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

And this is our pattern done..a one-line rep.

Rep Row 5 till you reach the underarm (or basically the length from under arm / armhole to waist), which is where we are ending this top.

Part 2 : The off-the-shoulder piece

Before I started on this, I checked to see that the bustier / tank top fit well. I then decided where I wanted the collar / off-the-shoulder bit to be.

We will work the collar separately and then join it onto the top of the bustier / tank top just made.

1. So whip out your measure tape and take a measurement for around the shoulders.

2. Check the round measure for the top of the project you’ve just made

3. Divide the difference (of the around shoulder measure minus the top of project measure) equally by two.

4. What does this mean? If the around shoulder measure is 42” and your round bust is 34”, then the difference (42 - 34 = 8) divided is 4” each side. This means that you will need to add 4” per side for the collar to fit onto the shoulders. Got it?

5. We will be making a chain length for the difference (so in above example we will make a chain length for 4” each side). Easy enough, right?

Our stitch count is in multiples of 21.

1. Count the number of stitches you have for your front and back top rows.

2. Calculate how many stitches make an inch (i.e work your gauge)

3. Calculate how many stitches you’d need to get the around the shoulder bit

4. Ensure that you have the stitch count repeat of 21.

Start : with as many fsc as needed (for one side of your collar keeping in mind the four very important points above + number of stitches on the top row of the tank top) x 2. Keeping this fsc chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwoGTvFbxbg

We will now work our full project for the collar in rounds.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around.