Sweet Nothings Crochet: UNIQUE SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP

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UNIQUE SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP

This is a really pretty pattern – it is plain all the way to the shoulders and then you have this lovely plethora of shells thrown in for just right at the top – and I think that is a great idea… obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

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And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of the All Seasons Ganga Acrowools knitting yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Red Rose, White rose and Anchor knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : The yarn I’m using today is available only in India. It is a yarn between a lace weight and 2-ply thickness. You can, however, use any yarn with a suitable hook for this lovely pattern.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I started this pattern off with the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

There are just two parts to this lovely creation, so let’s get started. Here's all the different ways you can wear this top - major photo bombing ahead ;)

Part 1 : Front and Back

We will work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and back. There is no pattern for the lower half of the top – lower being all portions below armhole. You will just work a rectangle from waist all the way to the armholes. The diagram below is what I used as my 'draft' or inspiration.

There I no stitch count for this part.

It also does not matter which stitch you use.

Start : with fsc for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.

It does not matter if you start with fsc or fdc.

Just ensure you get the half round waist measure right.

From this row on, you will choose your stitch, and work that stitch all the way till your rectangle reaches neckline /armhole. You can use an hdc or dc.

Taking a look at the photograph, it looks like the designer has used sc or hdc (as she has also used a pretty thick yarn) all the way from waist to armhole.

What I did :

As I worked with a thinner yarn, I worked a slightly different way.

For the first few rows, (working with the half round waist measure), I worked one hdc in each st all the way to the end, till I had about 2” done. It doesn’t matter how many inches you work here – this is not part of the pattern.

I then worked a small lacy / holey pattern , by working an hdc in 1 st, and then ch 1, skipping the next st and working a hdc in the next st. I worked hdc in the 1^st two and last 2 sts, just to give it a firm end and making it easier to join.

So for more clarity, my ‘pattern’ is as follows :

Row 2 : hdc in the 1^st 2 fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next fsc, hdc in the next hdc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 sts,

hdc in the last 2 sts. Turn.

Row 3 : hdc in the 1^st 2 hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp,

hdc in the last ch 1 sp ; hdc in the last 2 hdc. Turn.

Row 4 : hdc in the 1^st 2 hdc ;

*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 hdc ;

ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the last 2 hdc. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the armhole.

Now here’s where it gets a little tricky – so what you should do for a perfect fit is see where your bra strap(s) start from armhole.

The next measurement is from the top of bra strap along the strap to the back of the same strap.

See what we are doing? We are using the bra to do more than half our calculations.

Below is a diagram, which is not to scale – just for explanation

OK, so you will place a marker for where your bra straps start from under armhole for both sides (left and right).

Last Row : (Decrease for armhole shaping) :

sl-st in the 1^st 2 or 3 hdc ;

(sl-st in the next ch-1 sp and sl-st in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) till 1^st marker

*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the next marker. Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work the same for the 2^nd half of the top as well.

Once done with both the front and back parts (from waist to armhole only – so one odd looking rectangle), attach the sides. We will now work in a round for the neckline/shoulder/off the shoulder yoke-like bit.

Part 2 : Off-the-shoulder portion

For the top bit that goes around the shoulders , stitch count is in multiples of 9.

As we have joined the two sides, we now have a rectangle / tube like project and from now on we will work in rounds.

For the first round, we need to create our shoulder straps.

So this is where we use that 2^nd measurement we’d taken – for the length from the top of the bra strap, along the top of the shoulder to the back.

On our first round, we need to try and get stitches in our stitch count.

So first count the hdc and ch-1 sps and see how many sts you have.

Then see how many inches you need to add for the strap.

Now check how many stitches you will need to get that measurement and try and ensure that you work in the stitch count as well.

Not too much work now, is it? ;) ;)

But the good news is that once you get this first round done, you are good to go J

May I suggest that before you jump into Round 2, wear the top and see that you got the shoulder straps going the way you want them to. OK.. get set.. let’s go… Check the diagram below (not to scale) to see how you measure for the bra strap and attachment of top bit.

So before we start on the pattern round, please re-attach your yarn at the 1^st marker and work the number of stitches you need for the strap both sides.

Fasten off. Check fit.

Re-attach yarn at the 1^st marker again.

Preparation Round : sc in the 1^stst ;

(sc in each hdc and each ch-1 sp till end) ;

[sc in each ch for the shoulder strap] ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] once. Turn.

Great now let’s start the pattern for the off-the-shoulder section.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next 3 sts, 9 dc in the next st ;

sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, we will use a “V”-st which is (trc ; ch 2, trc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Round 2 : “V”-st in the 1^stsc ; ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ;

*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , 5 dc in the 1^st“V”-st ;

*sc in the next sc ; 9 dc in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

4 dc in the same 1^st “V”-st. Turn.

The reason we’ve split the 9 dc into a set of 5 and then 4 is to get to the centre of this 9 dc set in preparation for the following row. Now that you are in the centre of the 9 dc, all you do is start right here… at the 5^th dc, which is the centre. OK?

Round 4 : sc in the 1^stdc (5^th dc of the 9-dc set) ;

*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Round 5 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*9 dc in the next “V”-st ; sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rep Rounds 2 to 4 till you get the width you wish for your shoulder bit, ending with either Round 3 or Round 5.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html