Sweet Nothings Crochet: EASY SHELLED TOP

Easy Shelled Top - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This easy crochet top is one you really must try - and with my ideas you have so many combinations - create a whole wardrobe with one simple pattern.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 250 gms of our Yatzal Bamboo blended knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You can also use Anchor knitting cotton

For Non-Indians : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
The stitches used are all basic, but the calculations and ideas given will require intermediate to advanced crochet skills
Gauge : Gauge is not important. You can make this top for any size.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

trc : Triple / Treble crochet

Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern. This is a slightly complicated pattern and I’ve got loads of notes – bear with me.. they’re all useful!

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We will start from the base of the top and then work up to the shoulders.

We will do the same pattern for the front and back of top, and then join the sides and shoulders.

This pattern can be made for any size. Please check the stitch count given, and follow instructions to make it to your preferred size.

Please read through all instructions before you start. Cheers 😄

Front / Back : Make two

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start : with fdc in multiples of 9 + 1.

You will make a start chain length half the round waist.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fdc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 fdc , sc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;

3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ;

sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last st . Turn.

Note : Check that this ‘band’ that you’ve just made is the right size needed (i.e half the round waist for the person intended). The pattern *may* reduce the width a bit, so in case you feel this is not right, please stop now and increase stitches (keeping stitch count in mind of course) from start row.

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 3, sc in the 1st ch-sp ;

*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

4 dc in the last sc. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 – 4 till your work reaches the armhole level, ending with a Row 3

Armhole decrease

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Sl-st all the way from the first 4 dc to the next (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) set.

In the ch-2 sp of that 1^st (to) set, we will work a 4 dc.

We will work all the way to the end of the row in pattern, and work a 4 dc in the last (to) set once again.

Easy enough?

Decrease Row 1 : sl-st past the 1^st two ch-3 sps, 4 dc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till the 3^rd last ch-3 sp from end ;

4 dc in that ch-3 sp. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;

*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : 4 dc in the 1^st sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

4 dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 4 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;

*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Now continue in pattern till you reach the neckline.

As I mentioned before, you can decide not to shape a neckline and go straight to the shoulders too and get a boat-like neckline in the end.

In case you decide to shape a neckline :

1) Work till you reach the point you want for your neckline (remember that you are working armhole shaping and neckline from this point on)

2) Find the centre point and place a marker.

3) Decide how wide you want your neckline and place markers on either side of the centre marker. You can then remove the centre marker.

4) Work in pattern from one armhole till the 1st marker and then work back to the armhole.

5) In the last 2 sts before the neckline marker, work a dc 2-tog for the 1st 2 (or 3) rows and then work without any further decreases till you reach the shoulders.

6) Once you have completed one side, re-attach your yarn for the other side and mirror what you have done. Remember you will start with the dc 2-tog decreases for the 1st 2 (or 3) rows and then continue in pattern without decrease till the shoulders.

7) I'd suggest making a note of the number of rows you decrease for convenience.

8) When you have completed both sides of your top, use one of the joining methods given below to join the sides.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Sleeves :

This top looks awesome with or without sleeves - so here's an idea if you want to work in sleeves.

You have done the pattern several times now, so have that pat down.

Re-attach your yarn at the joint under the armhole and work a round of sc all around the sleeve opening in multiples of 9.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now go back to the main body of the pattern and rep rows 1 - 4 (and that means that after you work 1 & 2 you rep 3 & 4 for the length you want for your sleeve). The only difference is that instead of turning at the end of each row, you will work in rounds joining at the end of each round.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Finishing :

1) Attach the sides and the shoulders

2) Work a round of sc all around the neckline (& armhole in case you've left it sleeveless) for a neat finish

3) Work a round of sc + picot or

4) Work a round of reverse sc or crab stitch all around the neckline (& armhole)

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

and this lovely Easy Shelled Top is all done !

How to make this into a crop top :
A crop top is similar to a full top - just the length differs.

So for this creation, I'd suggest you work all the way from the base to whatever length you want your crop top to be.

I'd actually suggest you work two rectangles and make your crop top that way.

Once you finish your rectangles, use one of the joining methods given above to attach sides till you reach armhole, leaving an armhole opening. Then join shoulders, leaving a neckline opening. You will automatically get a drop shoulder as well as a cute boat-neck like neckline opening.

Use one of the finishing ideas for picot or crab stitch to finish your neckline and armhole openings.

How to make this into a kurti or kurta :
A kurti is an Indian top - which typically goes a few inches below hips

and a kurta goes all the way down to a few inches above knees. In both kurti and kurta there are side slits that ride up for a few inches. Typically both kurti and kurtas are sleeved and fitted - but there are unsleeved versions as well.

So for these creations, I'd suggest you work all the way from the base to whatever length you want your kurti or kurta to be. You would need to work the pattern with shaping for armhole and neckline and then work the pattern for the sleeves in later.

Once you finish your pattern, use one of the joining methods given above to attach sides, starting from a few inches off the start line, and then till you reach armhole, leaving an armhole opening. Then join shoulders, leaving a neckline opening.

The length side slit for the kurti and kurta are up to you.

Use one of the finishing ideas for picot or crab stitch to finish your neckline and armhole openings. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html