“V”-
NECKED TOP
After
a set of jackets for child and adult, here’s a nice top to complement the set.
Today
we’ll work on a “V”-necked top that is worked from the chest up (for yoke) and
then from the chest down (for body) .. so its both a top up and top down
construction !
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size. Just pay
attention to the stitch count, and please read through all my detailed
instructions.
Come
along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of Sullivans
cotton (Australia) knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Size made : 34”
(M/L)
This
is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need.
The yarn you require will depend on the size
you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work
Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
For
this pattern we will start at the chest, just under the bust, and work up
towards the armhole, neck and shoulders.
We
will then come back to this start line and work down for the length of the top.
You
can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right. Please read through all the detailed instructions before you pick up your hook.
The
stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 6 + 1
Start : with
fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for half the round chest measure. Turn.
Note
:
As I have stated several times before, check which is the larger measure –
round chest, round bust, round waist – and use the largest measure for ease of
wear. With this pattern, if you are
going to keep the neckline deep, then you will have ease for the upper part of
the body anyway. Pay attention to the
shape of the pattern as well as the shape of your body when working any
pattern.
There
are small tricks for shaping that I will give you just after the pattern
instructions. In case your chest (which
is measured just below the largest round of the bust – i.e tape measure around
bust point) and bust measures are not too far apart, then these small
alterations are not needed. But in case
you want a really fitted top, then pay attention to the ideas given below.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st fsc ;
(sk
next 2 fsc, 5 dc in the next fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
In
the following row, we will use the same stitch all through.
For
convenience, let’s call this our “V”-st, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the
same st)
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
and
this is our pattern all the way to the armholes and neckline.
Easy
peasy, right?
Rep
Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole, ending with a Row 3.
Now
for the increase ideas.
If
you can see in the chart, they have added dc at each end of the rows all the
way to the armhole. So that’s what I’d
do too. I will still suggest that you
should use the larger measure between waist, chest and bust to start – but as
we have this little increase tweak here, and it will be ‘invisible and hidden’
under the arm, I’d say go for it, as you will get a really lovely fitted
garment.
Before
you increase,
please read what I’ve said for decrease ideas.
Increase Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.
Turn.
This
is rep of Row 3 with an increase.
Increase Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc.
Turn.
Increase Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc
in the next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last 3 dc ;
dc
in the next dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.
Turn.
This
is, once again, rep of Row 3 with an increase.
Increase Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc,
dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 3 dc ;
dc
in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Increase Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; sk
ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last 2 dc and ch-1 sp ;
dc
in the next dc ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in
the last dc. Turn.
This
is, once again, rep of Row 3 with an increase.
This
completes our increases.
You should be
at the armhole, and we will need to decrease a little – and here are the ideas
again.
I
have always said that for a good fit, please keep a well fitting garment as a
template and I’ll say that again. This
is an easy pattern and you can do a damned good job here – so use all the
templates that you can!
Decrease ideas :
Note
here that when I talk about decrease, I am going exactly per the original
pattern and there are no increases made.. so these instructions are like you
have ended with the original Row 3.
In
case you have made any increases, don’t panic .. this is an easy pattern.
So
what are we doing here? We just need a
slight shape for the armhole.
We
will decrease about 5 sts in the first row of decrease and then shape from
there. So in case you have more stitches
on the side, just keep decreasing the same number of stitches and keep
the pattern going. It does not matter
if you are at a different stitch from the instructions here.. as long as
you have a shaped decrease, and you have the pattern coming along, you’re doing
great!
There
is an armhole shaping for both front and back, and there is a neckline shaping
for the front.
I
did not shape a neckline for the back – so it goes all the way to the top with
just a neatly shaped armhole. If you
decide to shape back, try to copy what we are doing for the front. Innovate and create something different.
These
instructions are just for armhole shaping.
When shaping for the front, you will combine armhole and neckline
shaping on the same row.
You
decide
how deep you want the neckline and work accordingly.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 1 decrease : sl-st past the 1st 4 sts ; dc 2-tog
over the next 2 dc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 6 sts ;
dc
2-tog over in the 6th & 5th st from end (leave last 4
sts unworked). Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 2)
Row 2 decrease : dc in the 1st st ; sk next dc and
ch-1 sp , dc in the next st ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last 2 dc and ch-1 sp ;
dc
in the next dc ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in
the last dc. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 3)
Row 3 decrease : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ;
sk
next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 2 sts ;
dc
2-tog over in the last 2 dc. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 2)
Row 4 decrease : 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the
next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last ch-1 sp ;
3
dc in the last ch-1 sp. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 3)
This
completes our decreases. As you have seen, we are just using the same two
pattern rows – so while the body of the pattern has not changed, the start and
ends have – so I will rewrite that bit again, and for convenience am going to
call these our armhole rows.
Armhole Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 3 sts ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 2)
Armhole Row 2 : 3 dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc,
dc in the next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till last dc ;
sk
next 2 dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 3)
Work
armhole Rows 1 & 2 till you reach the shoulders.
For
the front, I shaped a “V”-neckline. The
first decrease is worked in the centre of the project on pattern original Row
3 , where you work the 5-dc on the pattern row.
As
mentioned before, you decide when you want to shape your neckline. To start, place a marker in the centre
stitch of the 5-dc set (so its even on both sides).
So
what happens if your centre stitch for the top is not the
5-dc set but just a dc?
Nothing
much. You will still place your marker
in that dc, and use the ideas given below to work your shaping.
Remember
like I have said countless times, use a template. So first take a well fitting top and draw out
the shape of the neckline you want on paper.
Place this paper draft on top of your well fitting top, and you have an
idea of where your crochet top is headed.
Got it?
Neckline shaping ideas :
Neckline shaping Row 1 : (starting armhole end)
3
dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till 2 dc before marked st ;
sk
next 2 dc, 3 dc in the marked dc. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 3)
You
now are working only one side of your project from neckline to armhole and
back.
Neckline Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc
in the next
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 3 sts ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 2)
Neckline shaping Row 3 : 3 dc in the 1st dc ; sk
next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till the last 2 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
(This
is the same pattern as Row 3)
And
here’s where it gets more fun and innovative.
Use
the shaping ideas above to make it as deep and wide as you want.
Just
remember to keep notes of what you are doing this side to mirror it again. Also keep checking against your
templates.
Remember
that when checking, pat and flatten down your work – do not stretch it. Go ahead.. have fun creating.
Repeat whatever you have done this end for the other side of the front too.
Lower half of our top
Now
that we are done with one back and one neatly “V” shaped front, let’s work on
the lower half of our top.
This
is really easy. So flip your work such
that you are working on the underside of the first fsc row with your
work facing the right side up.
Now
if you start on the wrong side of the work it does not matter because we
are working from side to side.. so both sides are right!
We
are going to continue working the same pattern, which you know perfectly well
by now, but we will switch our rows (numbering-wise).
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st fsc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc)
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(5
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep
(to) till end. Turn.
See,
same pattern .. different row numbering.
Continue
rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you have the length needed for your top.
Finishing ideas :
1.
Join
the shoulders and sides.
2. To work a border : Run
2 rows of sc all around the neckline and armhole.
3.
Remember
when working with sc, you will work 2 sc in each vertical bar of the dc and 1
sc per chain space.
4. If you’d
like run a row of ch-3 sps all around the armhole and neckline. If you decide
on this : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till end. Join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
5.
You
could choose to run a row of ch-3 sps and picot as well. If you decide on picot, I’d say work a ch-3
picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk)
6. For a ch-3
picot on the ch-3 sps : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, sl-st in the 4th
ch from hk ; ch 1, sk next sc along armhole/neckline, sc in the next sc) ; rep
(to) all till end. Join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
More ideas
1.
With
this beautiful creation, if you make it short then you get a neat off the
shoulder cropped top as well.
2.
Divide
the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. You will work the neckline decrease pattern
for the front, dividing at the 5-dc set for convenience. Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous
border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using the finishing pattern
all around.
3.
Be
snazzy and make a top with just lower half open.. so you will work the top bit
as given, and for the front, work part of the rows end to end, and then divide
at the centre 5-dc set and make the front into two halves. This is a little trickier than working a
jacket, as you will need to ensure that the two halves do not overlap. How do you do this? Well, I’d still use that
centre 5-dc set as my centre dividng stitch, but instead of using the centre
stitch, I’d use the two side stitches as markers – i.e the 1st
and 5th st will be my turning stitches each end. You do need to decide how wide you would want
the border to be – the border like you are working around the armhole and
neckline – and see if you can fit that similar border here too.. else make the
border all around smaller – OR work till the dc before the 5-dc set on both
side (hopefully you get what I mean, as you have done the pattern several rows
by now). The diagram below is just for explanation and is
not to scale.
4. Run the
border pattern along the bottom of the project as well if desired.
Have
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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