Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDERS TOP

SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDERS TOP

This is one of the cutest and ‘most happening’ patterns today – and it’s making the networks all over again… guess summer and beach and clothing all go hand in hand with the trends, huh?

I’ve made several similar tops – and if you have just joined my blogs, then you can find all of that by clicking on the “Labels” links on the right hand side of this blog. Check under “Crochet tops” for the large selection.

This is my original pattern inspired by a chart for the collar bit. While I have no objections to you selling the product made from his pattern, I do expect that you share my pattern blog link and do not copy and paste this pattern as your own.

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Materials used :Today I’ve used ~ 300 gms of some the stunningly lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Red Rose and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians :The yarn I’ve used is a regular knitting cotton which technically (prescribed) uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook. I like a slightly larger hook to give more stretch to my yarn and work. Among international yarns I’ve used in this weight category , I’d say Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans (Australia) knitting cotton and Hilaza Eclat Rustica will work.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

The bustier / tube top is an intermediate skill level.

The shelled collar is an advanced skill.

Size made : 34” (M/L). This is only for an estimation of yarn requirement.

Gauge : Gauge is not important. You can make this top for any size.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This pattern is worked a little differently – but with all the basic principles of a regular top. We’ll make two rectangles that will make up the bustier / tube top and then we will work on the flouncy bit that goes around the shoulders.

All we do differently is work from top to bottom, while working side to side. Sounds terribly complicated – but it isn’t.

So we’re starting our top from under the armhole of the left hand side of the body, and working down to the waist (or however long you want your top) – and that’s our first row. Then we work up to down (all rows working from armhole to waist which is now the length of your top) but working across to the right hand side of your body (which is the width of your top).

You will end up with a rectangle bustier / tube top.

We will then work on that beautiful flouncy top shoulder bit that makes this top totally fantastic and unique.

Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

Please note that as always you can make this top any length you want and for any size – just read through allllllllllllll my detailed instructions. Thank you

For this pattern, we’re using two different patterns.

I am using one pattern for the base of the sleeveless bustier/tube top and the next pattern will be for the yoke/poncho/neck + sleeves… I am not sure what to term this second part, so the several terms for you to choose from ;)

All through my pattern(s), I work the chainless dc start. Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.

In case that does not suit you, go ahead and work your ch-2 or ch-3 start that will be your first dc. However, do note that I will be writing the pattern for the chainless start.

Part 1 : Front and Back

We will work two identical rectangles for the bustier / tube top bit of this pattern – so one each for front and back.

I am going to start this top from the chest down (i.e top down, from under armhole)– and so there are some calculations you will need to make right now.

There is no shaping for this top, and we will be working only two rectangles that will make up the front and back portion.

There is no shaping for the armhole, and our first row will be just under the armhole and just above the bust.

You can decide to add an elastic right around the top (i.e behind the first few rows). The round measure that you will then need to start with will be the round chest / bust measure. Ofcourse you will also need to figure out how long you want your top – so if you are working this as a long top, then you will need to check which measure is larger – chest or waist, and use the larger measure to start.

You can also decide to work this with just a thin sliver of a shoulder ‘strap’.

Right then, let’s start.

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Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 3 + 1.

You will make a start foundation double crochet chain length = length from armhole to waist (or whatever length you want for your top).

In the following row, we will work a “V” stitch which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*sk next 2 fdc ; “V”-st in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

So in this all-dc row, you will be working 3 dc in per “V”-st. Got it?

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk next 2 dc ; “V”-st in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

And that’s our pattern..D..O..N..E !

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you have the width needed.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Quick tweak : Instead of working your “V” st in dc, you could work a trc.

This means you work (trc ; ch 1, trc) all in the same st. This will make a slightly larger “V”-st and a slightly lacier end product.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Whatever stitch you decide to work on, work the same instructions for the other side of your top as well.

Once you have the two rectangles for the bustier / tube top done, we will work on the shoulder bit. Join both the rectangles along the sides and keep your tube top aside. Let’s start our shelled collar.

Part 2 : Shelled collar

For the beautiful shelled / lacy collar bit, we will work it separately and then join it at the centre of our top. This collar bit is worked as a round.

I will as usual give a general idea on how to work on this. The main thing that you need to keep in mind is that you need to work it to the round shoulder measure to get it to the neckline / collar you’d like.

So what do I mean by this? You need to measure your round the shoulder measurement – so place the measure tape around your shoulders. Now this is the length that you will work the collar for.

Our collar in this pattern is worked totally differently from the collars I’ve worked in all my off-the-shoulder tops – but yet again, same principles.

We will work this collar and then join it to the top of the rectangular bustier / tube top we’ve created.

Once you work finish making the long collar, put it around your neck and see how “high” you’d like this.. High means that it will be closer to the neck and low would mean that it would be more like a boat-neck and will flop over the shoulders. When we attach this collar to the bustier, we will it only attach along the center front and back portion, leaving an armhole ‘gap’ along the side. You can also decide to add in a shoulder strap which again is attached later.

Using these ideas, one can make this for any size. Please also go through all these detailed instructions before you start as some of them may affect what you need to do.

Unlike my earlier off-the-shoulder tops, this collar is not worked in a round, but as a round. The pattern is worked back to front or sideways – just like a machine would work a pattern.

Confused ? Let me try to clarify. Usually we have worked a round that goes around the shoulders and then we work the pattern along this round. So when you continue with the pattern, you already have the width (around shoulders) and are then working on increasing the length (that will flop over your shoulders), right?

With this pattern, we are working along the length of the pattern (so the part that makes the flop over shoulders) and increasing the width (around the shoulders) at the same time.

This is what has made this an advanced skill pattern.

Hopefully you have an image of what we are creating now.. so let’s start with our collar/shoulder bit.

Start Row 1 : with 20 ch.

Turn and work a dc in the 4^th ch from hk ;

(ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next ch) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

dc in the last ch. Turn.

(The 1^st 4 ch are a dc and a ch-1 sp – so you have a total of 10 dc and 8 ch-1 sps)

You may want to place a marker for this 1^st ch-4 that marks your 1^st dc and ch-1 sp as we finish at this point and it does get a bit complicated then.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, dc in the same dc. Turn.

(Leave balance stitches unworked)

In the following row, we will work a dtr.

This row is complicating, as we will work two sides of the pattern simultaneously.

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

Row 3 : dc from the 1^st dc [you may want to place a marker her the 1^st time you work this] ;

Turn (and facing the unworked stitches, skip stitches along this side – so working along the unworked stitches) ;

Sk next 2 dc and work a dtr in the next ch-1 sp ;

Turn (and now we will work back along the sts of Row 2, towards the other end);

ch 1, dc in the same 1^st dc [the marked dc] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Phew.. you got that done.. Yaay!

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 1, dc in the same dc ;

{ch 2, dc in the next dtr} ;

rep {to}2 times ;

[Place a marker on this dc]

sk next dc of Row 3, dc in the next ch-1 sp of Row 3. Turn.

Row 5 : ch 3, Turn [and facing away from your work]

sk next 2 dc of Row 3, dc in the last dc [which is that first ch-4 bit] ;

Turn [facing back the side we are to work on];

ch 4, dc in the marked dc

{ch 4, dc in the next dc} ; rep {to} once ;

ch 1, dc in the same dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 1, dc in the same dc ;

{4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; dc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} once ;

3 dc + 1 hdc in the next ch-sp ; sc in the next dc ;

4 sc in the next ch-sp ; sc in the next dc ;

3 sc along the last dc

[which is that 1^st set of 3-ch that made up your 1^st dc – this is why I’d advised you to place that marker ;) ]. Turn.

In our last row for this shell, we will work picots all the way down. Let’s work a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk)

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

After we work our picot row till the end, we will start the first row for the next shell pattern – all in one continuous movement.

Row 7 : sc + picot in the 1^st st ;

{sc in the next 2 sts ; sc + picot in the next st} ;

rep {to} 6 times till the last 3 sts ;

sc in the last 2 sts ;

ch 4 ; dc in the same st

[and this is now the rep of Row 1 of our pattern. Move your marker here] ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

(The 1^st 4 ch are again the dc and a ch-1 sp.

Check that you once again have 10 dc and 8 ch-1 sps).

This is one shell complete.

Rep Rows 2 – 7 till you have a long tape lace that is the length of the around-the-shoulder measurement you have taken.

When you finish the length, join neatly to the 1^st row to make a collar.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 3 : Finishing

Now you have completed both the front and the back pieces and the collar –

shoulder bit.

You have your tube top (2 joined rectangles) ready ..

Now comes the slightly complicated bit of attaching the collar to the top.

1. Fold your top in half and mark the centre front and centre back.

2. Fold your collar in half and mark the centre front and centre back.

3. Mark the two sides for the top – so for this, a good thumb-rule would be to see where your bra straps go and that’s as far as you would need to attach the collar. You can attach it slightly further than this too, but the collar will determine the armhole opening, so once you *think* you have it right, slip the top (bottom bit I mean) on and see that you *do* have it right.

4. Place your collar onto top of the lower part of top and match the centre markers and start pinning the collar all the way to the side markers for both back and front.

5. You will be attaching your collar along the end opposite to the picot end.

6. Using one of the joining techniques given at the top of the blog, join the collar to the lower part of top.

And that’s all the confusion and complication done! Great job!

Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block as needed and lemme see your creativity on some social media. Remember to tag me and please share my blog post so that someone else can also enjoy all this free pattern loveliness!

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html