SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDERS TOP
This is one
of the cutest and ‘most happening’ patterns today – and it’s making the
networks all over again… guess summer and beach and clothing all go hand in
hand with the trends, huh?
I’ve made
several similar tops – and if you have just joined my blogs, then you can find
all of that by clicking on the “Labels” links on the right hand side of this
blog. Check under “Crochet tops” for the
large selection.
This is my
original pattern inspired by
a chart for the collar bit. While I have
no objections to you selling the product made from his pattern, I do
expect that you share my pattern blog link and do not copy and paste this
pattern as your own.
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Materials
used :Today I’ve
used ~ 300 gms of some the stunningly lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn
with a 3.0 mm crochet hook
For Indians
: Our lovely Indian Red Rose
and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you
can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this
blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians
:The yarn I’ve used is a
regular knitting cotton which technically (prescribed) uses a 2 – 2.5 mm
crochet hook. I like a slightly larger
hook to give more stretch to my yarn and work.
Among international yarns I’ve used in this weight category , I’d say Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans (Australia) knitting cotton and Hilaza Eclat Rustica
will work.
Difficulty
level : Intermediate
to Advanced Skill
level.
The bustier
/ tube top is an intermediate skill level.
The shelled collar is an advanced skill.
Size
made : 34”
(M/L). This is only for an estimation of
yarn requirement.
Gauge
: Gauge
is not important. You can make this top
for any size.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This pattern
is worked a little differently – but with all the basic principles of a regular
top. We’ll make two rectangles that will
make up the bustier / tube top and then we will work on the flouncy bit that
goes around the shoulders.
All we do
differently is work from top to bottom, while working side to side. Sounds terribly complicated – but it isn’t.
So we’re
starting our top from under the armhole of the left hand side of the body, and
working down to the waist (or however long you want your top) – and that’s our
first row. Then we work up to down (all
rows working from armhole to waist which is now the length of your top)
but working across to the right hand side of your body (which is the width
of your top).
You will end
up with a rectangle bustier / tube top.
We will then
work on that beautiful flouncy top shoulder bit that makes this top totally
fantastic and unique.
Also note that in patterns
like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start
count. This means that if your chest
measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you
will use.
Please note that as always
you can make this top any length you want and for any size – just read through
allllllllllllll my detailed instructions. Thank you
For this pattern, we’re
using two different patterns.
I am using one pattern for
the base of the sleeveless bustier/tube top and the next pattern will be for
the yoke/poncho/neck + sleeves… I am not sure what to term this second part, so
the several terms for you to choose from ;)
All through my pattern(s), I
work the chainless dc start. Please
check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.
In case that does not suit
you, go ahead and work your ch-2 or ch-3 start that will be your first dc. However, do note that I will be writing the
pattern for the chainless start.
Part 1 : Front and Back
We will work two identical rectangles
for the bustier / tube top bit of this pattern – so one each for front and
back.
I am going to start this top
from the chest down (i.e top down, from under armhole)– and so there are some
calculations you will need to make right now.
There is no shaping for this
top, and we will be working only two rectangles that will make up the front and
back portion.
There is no shaping for the
armhole, and our first row will be just under the armhole and just above the
bust.
You can decide to add an
elastic right around the top (i.e behind the first few rows). The round measure that you will then need to
start with will be the round chest / bust measure. Ofcourse you will also need to figure out how
long you want your top – so if you are working this as a long top, then you
will need to check which measure is larger – chest or waist, and use the larger
measure to start.
You can also decide to work
this with just a thin sliver of a shoulder ‘strap’.
Right then, let’s start.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 3 + 1.
You will
make a start foundation double crochet chain length = length from armhole to waist (or
whatever length you want for your top).
In the
following row, we will work a “V” stitch which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the
same st or ch-sp
Row
2 : dc in the 1st fdc ;
*sk next 2
fdc ; “V”-st in the next fdc* ;
rep *to*
till last 3 dc ;
sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row
3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*dc in the
next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn.
So in this
all-dc row, you will be working 3 dc in per “V”-st. Got it?
Row
4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*sk next 2
dc ; “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to*
till last 3 dc ;
sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
And that’s
our pattern..D..O..N..E !
Rep Rows 3
& 4 till you have the width needed.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Quick tweak
: Instead of working your “V”
st in dc, you could work a trc.
This
means you work (trc ; ch 1, trc) all in the same st. This will make a slightly larger “V”-st and a
slightly lacier end product.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Once you
have the two rectangles for the bustier / tube top done, we will work on the
shoulder bit. Join both the rectangles
along the sides and keep your tube top aside.
Let’s start our shelled collar.
Part 2 : Shelled collar
For the beautiful shelled / lacy
collar bit, we will work it separately and then join it at the centre of our
top. This collar bit is worked as a
round.
I will as usual give a
general idea on how to work on this. The
main thing that you need to keep in mind is that you need to work it to the
round shoulder measure to get it to the neckline / collar you’d like.
So what do I mean by
this? You need to measure your round the
shoulder measurement – so place the measure tape around your shoulders. Now
this is the length that you will work the collar for.
Our collar in this pattern
is worked totally differently from the collars I’ve worked in all my off-the-shoulder
tops – but yet again, same principles.
We will work this collar and then join it to the top of the rectangular bustier / tube top we’ve created.
Once you work finish making
the long collar, put it around your neck and see how “high” you’d like this..
High means that it will be closer to the neck and low would mean that it would
be more like a boat-neck and will flop over the shoulders. When we attach this collar to the bustier, we
will it only attach along the center front and back portion, leaving an armhole
‘gap’ along the side. You can also
decide to add in a shoulder strap which again is attached later.
Using these ideas, one can
make this for any size. Please also go through all these detailed instructions
before you start as some of them may affect what you need to do.
Unlike my earlier
off-the-shoulder tops, this collar is not worked in a round, but as a
round. The pattern is worked back to
front or sideways – just like a machine would work a pattern.
Confused ? Let me try to
clarify. Usually we have worked a round
that goes around the shoulders and then we work the pattern along this
round. So when you continue with the
pattern, you already have the width (around shoulders) and are then working on
increasing the length (that will flop over your shoulders), right?
With this pattern, we are
working along the length of the pattern (so the part that makes the flop over
shoulders) and increasing the width (around the shoulders) at the same time.
This is what has made this
an advanced skill pattern.
Hopefully you have an image
of what we are creating now.. so let’s
start with our collar/shoulder bit.
Start Row
1 : with 20 ch.
Turn
and work a dc in the 4th ch from hk ;
(ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the
next ch) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
dc in the
last ch. Turn.
(The 1st 4 ch are
a dc and a ch-1 sp – so you have a total of 10 dc and 8 ch-1 sps)
You may want to place a
marker for this 1st ch-4 that marks your 1st dc and ch-1
sp as we finish at this point and it does get a bit complicated then.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next
dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in
the same dc. Turn.
(Leave balance stitches
unworked)
In the following row, we
will work a dtr.
This row is
complicating, as we will work two sides of the pattern simultaneously.
Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
Row 3 : dc from the 1st dc [you may want to place a
marker her the 1st time you work this] ;
Turn (and facing the unworked stitches, skip stitches along
this side – so working along the unworked stitches) ;
Sk next 2 dc and work a dtr
in the next ch-1 sp ;
Turn (and now we will work back along the sts of Row 2,
towards the other end);
ch 1, dc in the same 1st
dc [the marked dc] ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
dc in the
last dc. Turn.
Phew.. you got that done..
Yaay!
Row 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc in the same
dc ;
{ch 2, dc in the next dtr} ;
rep {to}2 times ;
[Place a marker on this dc]
sk next dc of Row 3, dc in
the next ch-1 sp of Row 3. Turn.
Row 5 : ch 3, Turn [and facing away from your work]
sk next 2 dc of Row 3, dc in
the last dc [which is that first ch-4 bit] ;
Turn [facing back the side we are to work on];
ch 4, dc in the marked dc
{ch 4, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 1, dc in the same
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
dc in the
last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, dc in the same
dc ;
{4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ;
3 dc + 1 hdc in the next
ch-sp ; sc in the next dc ;
4 sc in the next ch-sp ; sc
in the next dc ;
3 sc along the last dc
[which is that 1st
set of 3-ch that made up your 1st dc – this is why I’d advised you
to place that marker ;) ]. Turn.
In our last row for this
shell, we will work picots all the way down. Let’s work a ch-3 picot which is
(ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk)
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
After we work our picot row
till the end, we will start the first row for the next shell pattern – all in
one continuous movement.
Row 7 : sc + picot in the 1st st ;
{sc in the next 2 sts ; sc +
picot in the next st} ;
rep {to} 6 times till the
last 3 sts ;
sc in the last 2 sts ;
ch 4 ; dc in the same st
[and this is now the rep
of Row 1 of our pattern. Move your marker here] ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
dc in the
last dc. Turn.
(The 1st 4 ch are
again the dc and a ch-1 sp.
Check that
you once again have 10 dc and 8 ch-1 sps).
This is one shell complete.
Rep Rows 2 – 7 till you have
a long tape lace that is the length of the around-the-shoulder measurement you
have taken.
When you finish the length,
join neatly to the 1st row to make a collar.
Fasten off and weave in
ends.
Part 3 : Finishing
Now you have completed both
the front and the back pieces and the collar –
shoulder bit.
You have your tube top (2
joined rectangles) ready ..
Now comes the slightly
complicated bit of attaching the collar to the top.
1.
Fold your top in half and mark the centre front and
centre back.
2. Fold your
collar in half and mark the centre front and centre back.
3. Mark the
two sides for the top – so for this, a good thumb-rule would be to see where
your bra straps go and that’s as far as you would need to attach the collar. You can attach it slightly further than this
too, but the collar will determine the armhole opening, so once you *think* you
have it right, slip the top (bottom bit I mean) on and see that you *do* have
it right.
4. Place your
collar onto top of the lower part of top and match the centre markers and start
pinning the collar all the way to the side markers for both back and front.
5. You will
be attaching your collar along the end opposite to the picot end.
6. Using one
of the joining techniques given at the top of the blog, join the collar to the
lower part of top.
And that’s all the confusion
and complication done! Great job!
Fasten off and weave in all
ends. Block as needed and lemme see your
creativity on some social media.
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else can also enjoy all this free pattern loveliness!
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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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