CATHERINE WHEEL DRESS
I am not sure how many times I’ll say this .. but I am totally in awe of the number of free charts freely being shared on the internet. I also love that I have the time and yarn to just indulge myself every time something excites me.
Black and white - classic combination.. and wow, what a lovely dress this is!
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Inspired by this photo, and this link http://www.stranamam.ru/post/4841008/, these are my notes as I work on this brilliant piece.
Difficulty level : Advanced level
Now while the actual motif is an easy difficulty level, the joining and figuring out how many are required etc, I’d say advanced level.
That said, it’s a beautiful pattern, so do come along and let’s work this one together too.
Materials used : about 150 gms each of black & white 3-ply Oswal Cashmilon acrylic with a 3.5 mm
You do not need to use this yarn to make this pattern. I am sure this would look just brilliant made in knitting cotton too.
Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : 34” ; Length : 37”
You can make this to any size. Size given only for a rough estimation of yarn requirement. Please note that yarn needed depends on hook size, looseness of work as well as the body measurements of the person you are making this for.
Gauge : For hexagon 5.5” x 6”
Gauge is not specific. This is given only for estimation of size and yarn usage.
Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
hk : Hook ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)
lp : Loop rep: repeat
sc : single crochet
sl-st : Slip stitch
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
As we usually do, let’s look at this pattern and visualize what we’re about to create before we start.
So we are working with a lovely set of hexagonal motifs and a pretty simple 12 round design.
This creation can be made in single colour or multiple colours – so while I will indicate how many motifs I needed for my creation, please note that this is not a general rule .. as it will depend on the yarn used, gauge etc.
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start with a magic circle ;
6 sc in that magic circle.
Join with a sl-st into the 1st sc.
Pull closed lightly.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 5, sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, dc into the 1st sc.
(This ensures you’re back in the centre of that last ch-5 sp)
Round 2 : sc in the 1st st (which is the centre of that 1st ch-5 sp) ;
(ch 2, 2 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sc in the next sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
sc in the next 2 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 4 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 3 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 4 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 6 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 5 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 7 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next 6 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 9 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 8 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next 7 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 10 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 9 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next 8 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 11 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 10 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next 9 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 12 : Sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 11 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next 10 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This is one basic motif made.
Now here’s where you need to make your decision and choices.
So we can either make all our motifs or then join, or we join as we go.
So, if you decide to join up as you work, then we repeat Rounds Start - 11 for all the other motifs as well but in Round 12 for each following motif, we will join up with the previous motif ; so I will just write out the following final rounds as Round 12 A for easy reference.
I prefer the ‘join-as-you-go’ method as it gives less ends to weave in and I feel it gives a better end product.
This is a method to join granny squares or motifs continuously. In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk
So here’s what I’ve done.
While joining the two motifs in the sc sts, I’ve held both my motifs with wrong sides facing one another and then done a sl-st through both motifs loosely. The tension with which one joins is really important to the stretch and flatness of the finished product.
So do ensure that after you join each motif and before you fasten / weave in ends, check that your motifs are sitting flat.
I was asked if there was a possibility to making a flat finish for this dress - and so I decided to make half the hexagonal motif and here's a video for it.
I would suggest that you keep with the hexagons though, because I feel that the effect of this finish is something unusual
In case the video does not come on, click https://youtu.be/vR_lLkrwCEg
Calculations : So I’ve done three hexagons across for the chest portion, two above that for the neckline, and one each on either side for the shoulder(s). As I’ve decided to use two colours, this is all I’m doing for the top portion of my dress.
Round 12 A : Sc in the 1st sc ;
ch 2, sc in the earlier ch-4 sp ;
ch 2, sc in this motif ch-4 sp ,
[ch 2, sc in the ch-5 sp of the earlier motif ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp of this motif ;
sk 1st sc of earlier motif and sl-tog in the next 11 sc through both motifs] ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 11 sc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next 10 sc ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Remember and double check which motif you are working on after the [to]. It is pretty easy to add on a round to the wrong motif.
OK. Now here’s where the next complication starts.
So the first row of motifs need joining only along on one side , but as we grow our dress with each motif, we will need to work out how many sides we need to join ; and then we will do the above repeat [to] accordingly.
Now the final (?) confusion / question is .. how many motifs do we make and how do we decide how to join them up. Well, using the rough sketch very sweetly provided by the designer, and using a well-fitting dress (of the person for whom this creation is intended for) as a guide, I have put the motifs down and checked as I go along. Not really the ‘best’ guide, I’m sure, but it worked for me.
I've also added in a sketch that was a pretty good guide for figuring out how to attach the motifs and how many were needed.
I guess one could also go the regular way, and measure each motif, then calculate how many are needed to work an across chest or around bust, and then attach motifs as one goes along.
So whatever method works for you…. If you do have another way to get this done, do share – so someone else can benefit as well.
I love the way these hexagons give us the pointy edge that gives the base line of our dress this pizzazz!
Once you've finished all the motifs for one side, work a mirror image for the other side. You may decide to keep a slightly higher neck for the back.
Then you join the shoulders and sides using one of the methods given below.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
The shoulder motifs neatly joined together to give me a short cute sleeve. Ensure that you get the right round arm measurement before you join the sleeve - else just leave a bit, before joining, for ease.
Finishing : All wearables (especially) need a good finish - and for my edging, I've just one round of sc in each stitch all round the neckline, armhole and base line of our dress. Once again, you *could* leave it as is, as each motif does have that lovely pointy edge, so enjoy this final decision and choice for your beautiful creation.
Right then.. as usual, once done, fasten off.. weave in all ends…
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This is the first 'big girl dress' that I've written about, but I have a few little girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a quick dekho at some of those free patterns … here you go
and just to entice you with photos ...
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
I love your Water Wheel Pattern above and love the white and black together. I would like to make a blouse, or top, with it instead of the dress. Is there any guidance for how to align and join in a pattern for a blouse? Thank you for the instructions for this pattern!!!
ReplyDeleteThis pattern, as with all my patterns, can be made to any size. If you decide to work this as a top instead of the dress, you just make as many motifs as you would need till you get the length of your top or blouse. The gauge given is only indicative for yarn I've used. It is not specific. You just need to make the first motif, then calculate how many motifs you would need to get the width (round bust/chest/waist) of your blouse and then work as many motifs as needed for the length in the same way. The end result looks complicated but its not as hard as it looks. Go for it. Do share your photos with me (via FB messenger) and I'd love to showcase them on my Facebook page. Have a creative day too.
DeleteCan you give any guidance on how you altered the motifs around the neckline to get a smooth V-neck shape? Thank you. This is a wonderful pattern.
DeleteThanks so much. When worn it 'seems' like its a round neckline, but I've actually not changed the shape - I've just worked sc all around the hexagons and neatened the edges.
DeleteThis is one that is difficult to create a half of the motif pattern. I have an idea but need a half of a motif.
ReplyDeleteI've just updated the blog with my take on half of a hexagonal motif.. see if that works for you
Delete