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Tuesday, 26 April 2022
CASCADING CROP TOP
CASCADING CROP TOP
The Cascading Crop top looked, in my mind, like a small waterfall. The gorgeous soft cotton yarn allows the tassels to flow and fall neatly off he base of the top .. which gave my mind's eye this vision.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of (about 100 gms) unbranded knitting cotton with a 4 mm crochet hook
Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 34- 36” (M/L)
You can make this project to any size.Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3kFirst stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
We start by making a bralette of sorts - so while the pattern is generalised, you can adapt it for yourself with a little adjustment.
The most important thing is that you need to keep a bra ready so that you can 'mould' the bralette onto it and get the right size (well, this is what I did)
It will also help if you have an idea of how long you want this creation, as you can add in tassels after you finish it off.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.One dc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
We start with a fsc row. We then work 1 dc all the way to the end, work 8 dc (with a ch-sp) at the end, and urn around and work along the bottom half of the first fsc row.
The link on the top shows you how to work a fsc into a round - so we follow that idea, but we just do not join at the end
Start Row 1 :with a 15 fsc. Turn ;
dc in the 1st 14 fsc ;
(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) all in the last fsc ; Turn ;
dc in each fsc till end. Turn.
Do not join 2 ends
Row 2 :dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the ch-2 sp ;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-2 sp ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 3 - 8 :Rep Row 2
Now this is what makes this pattern an advanced skill level
The pattern itself has not been tough, but the decision of how many rows you need to repeat is.
So here is a quick idea - map the bralette you have made on top of the bra I'd asked you to keep handy. It would help if the bra is firm and holds its shape.
Of course the best bet for a good fit is to hold it against yourself or the person you are making this for 😀
I worked 8 rows and from centre top to bottom (along the ch-2 sp) my bralette is 7" and across from side to side it is just under 8". It also fits a 34" size, which si
Once you have the size you need, fasten off and weave in ends.
Make a second one with the same measurements as you have the first - but do not cut the yarn after completion - we will continue working.
You are now at the bottom of the cup that you have worked. Let's join both cups first.
Joining Row 1 :dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till the centre ch-sp ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the ch-sp] ;
rep (to) till the 11th dc from end ;
hdc in that 11th dc ;
{ch 1, sk next dc, sc in the next dc} ;
Now we will attach the 2nd cup ;
sc in the 1st s a the base of the 2nd cup ;
{ch 1, sk next dc, sc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the next dc ;
rep (to) till the centre ch-sp ;
rep [to] in centre ch-sp ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Joining Row 2 :dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till the centre ch-sp ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the ch-sp] ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) till the hdc ;
ch 1, hdc in the next hdc
{ch 1, sc in the next sc} ;
rep {to} 4 times ;
Once again we need to join the 2 cups, so we will sl-st into the 2nd cup instead of working a sc, and we will join all the sc's of both cups together with sl-st.
<ch 1, sl-st in sc of 2nd cup ;
ch 1, sl-st into next sc on 1st cup> ;
rep <to> 2 times ;
ch 1, sl-st in sc of 2nd cup ;
ch 1, sl-st into next hdc on 1st cup ;
ch 1, sl-st in hdc of 2nd cup ;
rep (to) till the centre ch-sp ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the ch-sp] ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) till the end.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
We are now at the bottom end of the triangle. We will work for the side of the bralette, along this part first. Once we finish this side, we will go to work on the opposite side.
Side Section Row 1 :hdc in the 1st dc ;
(hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 12 times ; Turn
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/whlsMemDHLc
Side Section Row 2 :sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 hdc ;
sc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc ;
sc in each hdc till end. Turn
Side Section Row 3 :sc in each sc till end. Turn
Rep Side Section Rows 2 & 3 till you have 8 sts left.
Side Section Row 4 :sc in all 8 sc till end. Turn
Rep Side Section Row 4 for 15 rows. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Re attach yarn at the bottom of the other side and rep from Tie / Strap Row till Side Section Row 4.
Do not cut yarn.
Ensure that you end your last row at the bottom of your bralette.
The stitch count for the fanned shell at the bottom of the bralette is in multiples of 18 + 2
Bottom Section Row 1 :hdc in all the sts from end to end.
Ensure that you work 2 hdc in each horizontal bar of a dc ; 1 hdc in each sc across.
Ensure that you have stitches in multiples of 18 + 2
Ensure that when you put your work down, it stays flat and goes easily around the chest of the wearer.
If you get these 3 things done, you have got it worked out.
Bottom Section Row 2 :sc in the 1st hdc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 hdc, sc in he next hdc) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Bottom Section Row 3 :dc in the 1st sc ;
ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp)
[8 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last dc ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Bottom Section Row 4 :dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till dc ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Bottom Section Row 5 :dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till dc ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Bottom Section Row 5 :dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next dc)
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Bottom Section Row 6 :sc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next dc ;
*(sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
[sc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp]* ;
rep *to* till 2 dc ;
sc in the 2nd last dc ; ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Optional : Now we need to add tassels to the bottom row, if you feel like it.
This looks gorgeous as it is too - but here are ideas on how to add tassels and play with them too.
I had a little bit of yarn left and decided to add tassels.
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