Sweet Nothings Crochet: OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP 2

OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP 2

I had a little variegated yarn and I thought it would make a neat short /crop top.. and as usual, I was trolling the net for ideas. I always feel that with a variegated yarn, one should not work too much pattern detail and allow the yarn to give the pattern *effect*.. after all that’s what you bought the yarn for, right? For its effect, right?

This pattern is simple all the way to the shoulders and then you have this lovely cowl collar right at the top – and I think that is a great idea… obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

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And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

The photo here seems to be a knitted top, so I’ve just looked at and tried to copy the idea for the collar.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 175 gms of some unbranded crochet cotton (bought from Australia. Check www.yatsal.com.au), and half a ball of Red Rose knitting cotton with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Soft knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cottons.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I have decided to work this pattern top down – from the armhole down to the length you want for your top. So first you need a few measurements

a) Decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need the round waist

b) You need your bust measurement

c) Check which measure is the larger one, and you will need to start with half that round measure. This is because there are no buttons on this, and you will need to slip this over your head and bust. The top part will have an elastic, which will help it ease over the body AND hold it there.

d) We will start our work from under the armhole, over the bust, so this is the place you will measure your length from – not from the shoulders as we usually do.

e) Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

Part 1 : Front and Back

The original pattern seems to be a knitted top. So for the lower half you can actually work sc / hdc or dc all through from top to bottom. I have decided to work a small lacy pattern – which is not really a difficult thing.

We will work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and back. The top part is from under the armhole to the length needed, and then the top part is the collar. You will just work a rectangle from armholes all the way to the waist (or wherever is the end length of your top).

For this pattern, as mentioned before, I have opted to work from the top down – so from the armholes (just over the bust) down to the waist.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 2 + 1 (so basically an odd number)

Start : with fdc for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.

It does not matter if you start with fsc or fdc. Just ensure you get the half round measure right.

From this row on, you will choose your stitch, and work that stitch all the way till your rectangle reaches neckline /armhole. You can use an hdc or dc.

Now I am going to attach a strip of elastic for the under armhole / top of the bust area, as this is an off-the-shoulder top, so to ‘hide / mask’ the elastic easily, I plan on having a few rows of plain dc at the top and then working the simple pattern all the way to the bottom.

I will then re-attach yarn for the top cowl-like collar of the top, and at we will see if there is a stitch count modification needed.

So for the first few rows, I worked one stitch in each st all the way to the end, till I had about 2” done. It doesn’t matter how many inches you work here – this is not part of the pattern. I suggest that you make this as thick (or thin?) as the elastic you plan on using.

Now just for kicks, I decided to work dc in the 1^st 5 and last 5 dc, but after a few rows (and being too lazy to frog it all out), I thought that maybe it would be nicer without the flat bit at the end – so for the 2^nd side, I decided to work without this – now its up to you to decide if you want dc each end.

Right, so once you have the first 5 rows done, let’s work on the simple pattern.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp ,

dc in that ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 1 & 2 till you reach the length you want for your top.

Remember that you are measuring from the top of your bust and as this is an off the shoulder, the top will be tight, so you will lose a little length in the bust. If for yourself, please wear and check length.

Part 2 : Collar

For the collar, our stitch count is in multiples of 2.

We will work this part in one continuous round – so do be careful when joining the two ends of your first round.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwoGTvFbxbg

SO how long do we make this first round? Well, it depends on you. It will be nice to have this first round going just around the shoulders – so that’s your first round / length.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start Round 1 : with fdc in multiples of 2 (so an even number of stitches)

Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st fdc and in each fdc all the way around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 3 & 4 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 5 to 8 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9 : dc in the 1^st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

*ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 10 - 11 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Now depending on how long you want this collar, either stop now or continue. IF you stop, may I suggest that you work a round of picot all around. You could also work a dc 3-tog and then work the picot round I’ve written here OR you could just work an sc in the 1^st dc (of the 3-dc set) ; sc + picot in the next dc and sc in the last dc, with ch-2 sps all around and finish off.

ELSE come along and let’s work the next round.

Round 12 : dc in the 1^st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 13 - 14 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

If you want a longer collar, work one more round of rep of Round 13.

In our next round, we will work a dc 4-tog. Here’s a quick “how to” refresher

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 4-tog made.

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU

We will also work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk). And here’s a quick “how to” refresher

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

The following round can be a little difficult – so there are two ways to do this.

Either you work both the dc 4-tog as well as picot all in one round, or you work it over two rounds.

IF you are able to do it all in one round, work Round 15, ELSE work Rounds 15A and 16

So in the difficult version, we will work a dc 4-tog PLUS a picot over 4 dc.

Round 15 : dc 4-tog + picot over the 1^st 4 dc ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog + picot over the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

OR choose the simpler option and work only a dc 4-tog in Round 15A and then the picot in Round 16.

Round 15A : dc 4-tog over the 1^st 4 dc ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 16 : sc + picot on the the 1^st dc 4-tog ;

*ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sc + picot on the next dc 4-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 3 : Finishing

Once you have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join your two shoulder bits and then the sides to finish off the top.

For the last and final beautiful lacy collar bit, I will give you an idea of what I have done, but there is no real stitch count here.

So place the collar (folded double) over the rectangular top. Mark the centre front and centre back for both the top as well as the collar and pin this down. Now continue to pin your collar to the top till you have just the armhole opening on each side. Your collar will not be pinned down all the way.

(Check the photo)

Once again, using these ideas, one can make this for any size. So I hope you have worked with me this far and will show me your lovely creations soon. Do remember tag me and share this blog post when you do. Cheers.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html