CITROUILLE LATTICED TOP
This
is not an easy top and it has been not an easy write up.
Looking at the meagre chart, I may not have chosen to make it – had it not been specifically chosen
by my client.
This is a gorgeous pumpkin coloured yarn and citrouille is pumpkin in French ;)
Come
along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Do remember to tag me when you make your cute creation.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 250 gms of 4-Seasons
Flinders 8-ply knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For
Indians :
The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you
can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this
blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For
Non-Indians :
This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other
international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting
cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting
cottons.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Size made : 34”
(M/L)
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill
level.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) hk : Hook
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)
yo : Yarn Over
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
This
pattern has a raglan neckline and the lovely spider stitch around the sleeves
and the base of the top.
For
this pattern we will start at one of the shoulders and work a raglan pattern ;
go around the back of the neck and down to the other side for the
shoulder. So the one long line we work
goes from the left side of the top, around the back to the right side. The
stitches used are easy , but this is a pretty tough construction.
With
this top, I cannot figure out a sizing that works for anyone. What I have done is work as per chart and see
where that gets me. Luckily for me, it
got me just where I need to be and the right size for me.
I have given you a small insight to get you started and then there are the charts
Start : with
54 fsc. Turn.
We
need to place a few markers to ease our first row.
Place
your first marker in the 11th stitch and the next marker after 33
sts.
From
now on, we will be using the (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) all down the side, so let’s
call this our “V”-st for convenience.
When I say work the “V”-st in the “V”-st, I mean you will work the (to)
in the ch-1 sp of the earlier stitch.
Row 1 : “V”-st
in the 1st st ;
ch 9, sk next
9 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ;
(ch
1, sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc) ;
rep
(to) 9 times ;
ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch
9, sk next 9 fsc, “V”-st in the last fsc.
Turn.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, “V”-st
in the next “V”-st ;
[ch
2, 3 dc in the next ch-9 sp ; ch 7, 3 dc in the same ch-9 sp ;
ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st] ;
(ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 1, dc in the last
dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the ch-2 sp ;
[ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch
2, dc in the same ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-7
sp ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st] ;
ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times ;
ch 1, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st
ch 3, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3,
3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the same ch-7 sp
; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-7 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch
1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in
the next ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch
9, sk next 7 dc , 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
3, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
9, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 12 times ;
ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 9, sk next dc, 3 dc in the ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 9, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in
the last dc. Turn.
Place your work down and see what we
are creating. Try to follow the chart
below – the spacing of the 3 dc and “V”-st will be a little simpler and you
will not struggle with trying to figure out which ch-sps have to be skipped
etc.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Thanks for all your effort in doing these patterns. I've just found your site and love all the tops you have posted for free for everyone. I do appreciate it very much.
ReplyDeleteThank you so my Ladylynne for your appreciation Have a fun creative day too
ReplyDelete