Sweet Nothings Crochet: VIKARNA TOP 2

VIKARNA TOP 2

I just finished working on a diagonal (a.k.a vikarna) top and loved that end result so much, my mind worked up different ways to get a top in diagonals. I have already thought up the next diagonal top idea – so do watch this space.

In my patterns, I get you to think.. a little bit. There are always ideas galore.. and there are you tube tutorial links for all stitches used - so come on along, and let's see what we're doing today.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of an unbranded Indian knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Vardhaman acrylic yarn or Laura knitting cotton .

You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit if you use a yarn of a different thickness.

Just please read through all my detailed instructions before you pick up your hook.

Come along then and let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn

Size made : 34” (M/L)

This is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need.

The yarn you require will depend on the size you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

We’re taking the simple C-2-C pattern and making it into a top.

What is C-2-C ? It’s just a pattern that goes from Corner to Corner using four stitches that make a little box-like pattern.

In our pattern today, as you are continually work from side to side in a diagonal, it looks like you have worked a basket stitch in the diagonal – and though it is pretty easy, the end result looks complicatedly fantastic !

Take a look at how to work a C-2-C.

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/fqMJOc9CHCY

There are no pattern instructions (stitch wise or stitch count wise) for this gorgeous top. There are just loads of ideas – so please read through before you start so you can visualize what you want to create before you pick up your hook.

We are going to use the C-2-C pattern to make two large rectangles that will fit the length and width requirements of your top. We will then join the two shoulder bits, leaving a boat-necked opening for the neckline, and then join sides, leaving an armhole opening.

After that, optionally, we could work on a small sleeve around the armhole opening.

This pattern works best if you use at least two colours of yarn.

It will also work with self striping or variegated yarn.

If you want to work this in just one colour, you will get the diagonal basket weave effect which will also be spectacular.

So with one C-2-C pattern I am going to give you ideas that you can create into different tops. Isn’t that such fun? Come along then.. let’s start on this one.

You can make this to any size, just ensure that you get the length and breadth that you wish for the person you are making this for.

1) Take measurements for length and breadth (ie round bust /waist/hip) of your client. For breadth, please choose the larger measure between bust / waist / hip.

As we're working two halves, one each for back and front - you will use the half the round measurement as the size for each half. This means that if your measurement is 40", you will work till you have a width of 20" - 21" for each side.

2) I strongly recommend that you either keep a well-fitting garment of the client, or you make a rectangle paper draft for the length and breadth you have just measured.

3) Your breadth will be half your round bust or round waist measurement.

4) Your length will be the full length you want for your top.

5) Now all you need to do is work with the pattern from the link above.

When you start the pattern, you will be starting from the left bottom corner and you will be working from the left hand side of your project to the shoulders and top right hand side of your project. As you increase with every row, you will be increasing both the length and breadth/width of your project – all the way till you reach the breadth (which is the right hand side bottom corner of your paper draft) or the shoulder (which is the right hand side top corner of your draft). At this point, you will stop increases, and you'' get a straight edge.

The diagrams below are for instruction only and not to scale.

Make two rectangles which we will then join to make our top.

and a photo tutorial for the stitch pattern as well

Continue increasing till you have reached either the length or breadth of your top, at which point you will stop increases only at that end and work the decrease as shown in the video link above.

You will remember that width / breadth is half round waist/hip or bust (whichever is the largest measurement)

You will then continue increases for the length, and keep decreasing along the breadth/ width to get the straight line along one end.

So if we look at this in a different way – keeping the left bottom corner to your left, once you have the breadth needed (measuring that bottom bit from left to right till it is half the round measurement needed), you will be stop increasing on the right bottom corner of your work.

As you are still increasing the length, the top left hand side of your work continues increase in pattern as before.

Now once you have the length needed, you will stop increasing pattern on both the top left hand side as well as the bottom right hand side of your work. This will slowly give you the rectangle shape desired. Easy enough, right?

Once I got the width and length of my top done, I decided to work a few lines of plain dc all the way across for the top portion. This also meant that shaping my neckline was way easier.

You can work sc / hdc or dc all the way for this portion.

For this I just worked dc all along the end of the C-2-C. So the general rule is to work 3 dc along the horizontal dc bar and work 1 st in each dc all the way across.

As there is no stitch measurement or count to go by, all I did was ensure that the row you work stays flat. In case you find 3 dc are too many stitches, I'd work a few 3 dc and a few 2 dc along the row to get it staying flat.

Work all the way till you reach the point that you decide you want to start shaping your neckline.

Finishing ideas :

I have three ideas for finishing.

1. Option 1 : Join the shoulders and sides, leaving an opening for the neck and armhole. You will get a lovely boat-like neckline and a gaping hole for the armhole.

2. Option 2 : you can decide to work a set of rows to show off the diagonals.

I did this with my earlier top (Vikarna 1)

If you decide on this option, then re-attach your yarn at any one end of your work, and run a row of sc or hdc all the way down. Remember when working along the vertical bar of your hdc, you will work 1 sc / hdc in each hdc till end.

When you finish that first row, check that it sits flat. There is no pattern or stitch count needed here – but it must sit flat.

Now have fun, and change colours as desired to get a flat-line pattern for the shoulder bit. Work as many rows as you want in your two chosen colours per side. Then join the ‘shoulder blades’ of the front and back, leaving a scooped boat-like neckline for your awesome top.

3. Option 3 : Make a small yoke for the front. In case you decide on this option, then you will need to make the front diagonal bit only till the armhole. Of course this depends on how wide you want your yoke. So decide on how wide you want your yoke, deduct that measurement from the full length of top (or the length of the back you have already made), and then work only that much in the C-2-C pattern.

Re-attach your yarn at any one end, and work a row of dc all the way down to the end.

Remember you will work 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in each horizontal bar of dc.

There is no stitch count for this section – just ensure that when you finish this row, it sits flat.

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Now change colours as desired to get an interesting pattern. You can work this pattern all the way to the shoulders, and then just join the shoulders and allow the opening in the centre to be your scooped out boat-like neckline or you can work in a small decrease to get a proper neckline.

Neckline decrease ideas :

1. Fold your work in half and find the centre front stitch. Place a marker

2. Decide how wide you want the neckline, and then place markers to mark the two sides of your neckline. Remove centre marker.

3. Work a dc in each dc all the way till the 2^nd last dc before marker. Work a dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Remove marker this end.

4. In the following row, start with a dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sts and then work a dc all the way to the end.

5. For the last decrease, work a dc all the way till 2^nd last sts before end. Work a dc 2-tog over the last 2sts.

6. This should give you a nice shaping, and I’d suggest you work a dc in each dc all the way to the end. This will complete one side of your neck.

7. Re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker. Start with a dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sts and then work a dc all the way to the end.

8. Work a dc in each dc all the way till the 2^nd last dc before end. Work a dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.

9. For the last decrease, work a dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sts and then work a dc all the way to the end.

10. Work a dc in each dc all the way to the end. This will complete the 2^nd side of your neck.

11. Join the two shoulder blades first.

12. Join the sides all the way till the armhole.

Sleeves :

If you are happy with it being just slightly off-the-shoulder and sleeveless, then run a round of sc or hdc all around the armhole and you’re done.

In case you want a small sleeve, then first you need to run a round of sc or hdc all around the armhole and then work a ‘similar’ pattern to whatever you have worked for the shoulder. So in my case, I once again alternated my two chosen colours for two rounds each.

For a slight shaping under the arm (arm pit), I started and ended with a hdc 2-tog over the first two and last two stitches from Rounds 2 – 4. For the rest of the rounds, I just worked a hdc in each hdc all around. As you can see, I worked a total of 10 rounds per sleeve.

More ideas

1. With this beautiful creation, if you make it short then you get a neat off the shoulder cropped top as well.

2. Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. This will mean that you will make two rectangular halves for the front and one larger rectangle for the back. Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using the sc or hdc all around.

3. For a snazzy finished look, I’d add in a few picot all around ;).

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html