Sweet Nothings Crochet: OFF THE SHOULDER TOP (5)

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP (5)

This is yet another off the shoulder top in a long line of tops I’ve made in the recent past. Not only is this the “in” pattern presently, but it’s also a lovely one.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of an Indian unbranded 4-ply knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

That said, you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to work this project.

Size made : 34" (M)

You can make this to any size. This is given only for a rough estimation of yarn requirement.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

The pattern is a pretty easy one line repeat. There are, however, calculations that need an advanced level of expertise.

Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made. Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Popcorn stitch : First work 3 dc, then carefully take the loops off the hook and pull the last loop out a bit ; slip your hook into the 1^st dc, pull the last loop (that you just dropped) through ; yo and draw through both loops. One popcorn stitch made. So in effect you are 'tying' all your sts together via the last loop

A great video for this stitch at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2xBe_R8UWI

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

trc : Triple / Treble crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern. This is a slightly complicated pattern and I’ve got loads of notes – bear with me.. they’re all useful!

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Let us take a quick look at what we’re working on here. I started working on the granny squares for this top and as I ‘figured’ it out, shared the photo(s) with my friend and Google/Pinterest Queen Rajeshwari – and she immediately shared this chart with me. So you have two ideas on how to make these squares.

Choices…. Decisions.. as always

We will start with a set of granny squares which will go around the shoulders.

This is the “Off the shoulders” bit. So first you make one square, measure it and decide how many you’ll need to go neatly around the shoulders.

Once we have completed that round of granny squares for around the shoulders, the body of the top is worked off this.

The pattern for the body seems to be worked in trc or treble / triple crochet stitches. You can work this in dc or trc.

Decide how long you want the top and work this shelled pattern all the way to the end. Keep it shorter and you have a wonderful of f the shoulder crop top all done! Continue it all the way down and you get a beautiful dress - one pattern and so many choices !

As always, I request that you read through all the instructions before you pick up your hook.

I stress this particularly for this pattern as there are armhole instructions that need to be read through once so you can visualize what you are going to do.

Please note that I take a lot of trouble in explanations so that it can be as clear as I can make it. Once again, I'd appreciate you share my blog post.

Part 1 : Granny squares

This is a top down construction. We start with the top around the chest / bust and work our way to the bottom.

The off-the-shoulder portion is, as mentioned earlier, is made up of granny squares. I also told you there are two ways to work this.

So the one method is working Popcorn stitches all around, and the other one (per chart) is working a dc 3-tog instead.

For a 'how to' for popcorn st as well as dc 3-tog please check the top of this blog.

So decide on what stitch you want to use, and use that stitch.

I am writing this pattern with the simpler dc 3-tog.

Start with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc. Pull lightly to close.

In the very next round, we will use a dc 3-tog.

Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

Round 1 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

[dc 3-tog in the ch-5 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-5 sp] ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You will now have four corners that are defined by the [to] pattern.

As you may have guessed, we will repeat the [to] dc 3-tog in each corner all around.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

[dc 3-tog in the ch-5 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-5 sp] ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 5, rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

We have completed one granny square.

Now you will make as many granny squares as needed to go neatly around your shoulders.

For each succeeding granny square, may I suggest that you join as you go along one side.

To join the granny square on one side : Join it as you regularly would, in the ch-5 sps. So when working Granny Square 2, join one side of Granny Square 1 via the ch-5 sps working (ch 2, join to ch-5 sp of Square 1 ; ch 2, sc in the ch-5 sp of Square 2).

You will work this from one corner to the next along one side of the 2^nd granny square only. You will then finish the square and move onto the next.

Each square is joined only on one side to the earlier square – so this is pretty easy and straight forward.

Once you have completed the full set of squares, you will have a long length of squares. You will finally join the last square to the other (free) side of the 1^st square you started with – thus making this a round of granny squares. So for that last square, you will join two sides to get this round. Got it?

I hope my rough sketches / chart help.

We will work the body of our top off this row of granny squares

Part 2 : Sleeves & body of top

We will now work in rounds for the body and sleeves of the top.

Another decision before we start off. I was thinking of working in dc here, and find that this chart also reads dc, but the top looks like it has been made using trc / triple/treble crochet.

I am going to write the pattern in dc. You choose your stitch and work accordingly.

For the purpose of our pattern, we will be working stitch count in a slightly different way. We will only be using the ch-5 sps all around, so check and see if you have an even number of ch-5 sps. Count even the corner points (that join 2 squares) as a ch-5, as we will be working in that joint / corner point as well.

Depending on where you are, sl-st to the joint/corner point or the 1^st ch-5 sp. For the sake of uniformity, I am going to say sl-st into the 1^st ch-5 sp, and each sp will be a ch-5 sp (even the joint/corner points). OK?

Round 1 : 3 dc in the 1^st ch 5 sp ;

*ch 2, (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Stop and check that you have alternating 3 dc and (to) patterns.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : sk the 1^stdc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Now in case you wish to have a slightly looser / larger top, add a dc in the centre pattern bit (i.e do not skip the dc, so you will get dc in the 3 dc ; then (to) and 3 dc again.. so you will have 8 sts for this set, as against 6. Got it?

Rounds 4 & 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

We have completed our pattern – it’s a simple one-line pattern.

We will now have this same pattern (Round 5) all the way through.

Remember that you can increase a stitch as well (per chart) if you want it looser, and stop increases any time.

Please note that if you continue any further pattern increases, you will continue your pattern all the way to the end of the top.

We will now split the sleeve away from the body.

Part 3 : Sleeve split

Before we start on this section, let us mark out our armhole /sleeve openings.

a) Fold your work in half and mark centre front and back

b) Place a marker for the two sides. How? Place a marker at the 1/4^th half round chest/waist measure. So say your Round chest is 34” , 1/4^th is 8.5”. Measure 8.5” on either side of the centre marker and place side markers there.

c) The space left after the four side markers will be your sleeve opening. Measure this opening and see if it is sufficient for your arm. If it is, you have your markers and will continue without any further increase

d) If the armhole opening is not sufficient, you will move the side markers to ensure that you have a sleeve / armhole opening that will fit you, and calculate how much you now need to add to the body / chest to get the top to fit.

e) Say you need to add 4” for the chest portion in total (= 2” per side) after you have ensured you have the armhole size right, then you will add a chain in multiples of 6 + 3 each side. Got it?

f) Once you have added in your chain, you will work Round 6A and Round 6B and then continue with the pattern as usual.

g) Whether you are increasing or not, I suggest that you split (place markers) in the ch-1 sp of the (to) sequence. IF you are not increasing, then this is a great space to join the front and back. If you are increasing, then you can add in the “missing” stitches neatly in the chain space you are increasing with.

In case you do not need to make any increases, carry on with instructions for Round 6 below.

Remember where I’ve suggested you place markers. So you will work one half of that stitch pattern repeat along one marker, work ch 1, and work the 2^nd half of the same pattern on the other side near Marker 2. Got it?

Round 6 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the 1^st side marker ;

skip all the stitches till the 2^nd marker ;

rep *to* till the 3^rd marker ;

skip all the stitches till the last marker ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

You have now divided up the sleeve and the body of your top.

Please check that the top fits the chest/bust before you carry on.

Skip instructions of Round 6A / B, if the top fits you well, and go straight to Round 7.

In case you do need to make any increases, carry on with instructions for Round 6A below.

As you are adding a chain, here’s how I suggest you work the stitches in between.

I will give it to you for an additional 9 stitches added (6 + 3 is the count)

a) So you will work the pattern all the way till the marker, and add 9 sts, then continue with pattern till the next marker and then add 9 stitches for the other armhole as well.

b) You have split your pattern at the (to), so you have worked 2 dc and then work (to) in the next ch ; dc in the next 2 ch ; ch 1, sk next ch, 2 dc in the next ch ; ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next 2 ch, (to) in the last ch, dc in the next 2 dc. This brings you to the end of one set of 9 sts for one side. Mirror this for the other side.

Round 6A : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the 1^st side marker ;

{add a chain in multiples of 6 + 3 for the increase that you need for this side (remember it is half the total increase needed)} ;

skip all the stitches till the 2^nd marker ;

rep *to* till the 3^rd marker ;

rep {to} once more ;

skip all the stitches till the last marker ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Remember that the pattern you have chosen is what you will continue working with. So in case you have made any increases after Round 5, you will continue with that.

You will also work that very same pattern in the chain length you have made under the armhole. Ensure continuity in pattern under the arm as well.

Round 6B : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the 1^st side marker ;

{ch 1, sk next 2 ch, dc in the next ch; sk next 2 ch, dc in the next 2 ch ;

rep (to) in the next ch ; dc in the next 2 ch} ;

skip all the stitches till the 2^nd marker ;

rep *to* till the 3^rd marker ;

rep {to} once more ;

skip all the stitches till the last marker ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 7 : Rep Round 5.

Continue rep Round 5 till you have the length needed for your top.

Not that hard now, was it? And I am sure you love how this has turned out.

Part 4 : Shoulder straps

There are two ideas for the shoulder strap. You can start either with a fsc or fdc. Basically here’s what I have done

a) Decide where you want to place your shoulder straps. Place markers at the front and back accordingly.

b) Decide if you want to work with fsc or fdc

c) Start and work a length of fsc or fdc all the way from front to back, in an odd number of stitches.

d) You can then work a sc / hdc all the way back to the start row and get a slender strap OR

e) Work this pattern : Row 1 : dc in the 1^st st ; (ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next st), rep (to) all the way to the end. Turn.

f) Row 2 :sc in the 1^stdc ; (sc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc), rep (to) all the way to the end. Fasten off.

g) You can work a hdc instead of a sc in Row 2.

h) You can also decide to work a row of sc or hdc + picot in Row 2. For a “how to” work a picot, check the top 0f this blog.

And that’s our lovely off the shoulder top.. all done.. I know you agree it’s a beauty.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html