SHELLED
BEAUTY TOP
This
is not an easy top and it has been not an easy write up. Looking at the meagre chart, I may not have chosen to make it – had it not been specifically chosen
by my client. Come
along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 250 gms of
4-Seasons Flinders 8-ply knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For
Indians :
The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton ; Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you
can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this
blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For
Non-Indians :
This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other
international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting
cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting
cottons.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Size made : 34”
(M/L)
Size
given only so you can figure out yarn requirement approximately. You can make this top to any size.
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill
level.
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
For
this pattern we will start at the base of the top and work our way to the
shoulders. As you may have noticed the
project is a bolero, but I am planning on using the chart to make a top.
With
this pattern we will work a rectangle and then fashion out sleeves from the
sides after we finish the two rectangles that will make up a back and front.
You
can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
The
stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 20
While
working in multiples of 20, you may end up with one extra ch-5 sp, which you
will ‘discover’ when you have worked a row or two. Do not worry.
You have been ‘warned’ that this may happen, so all you need to do is
work the pattern all the way to the end, and in that ‘extra ch-5 sp, work ch 3,
sc in that ch-5 sp ; ch 3 and work that last st as per pattern’.
In
each following row then, you will need work ch-5 over that last sc (ie over the
ch-3 sps).
This
is an advanced skill pattern, so you do need to figure a bit of this as you
work along.
This is the chart that I used for this pattern
Start : with
fsc in multiples of 20 + 2. Turn.
Row 1 : dc
in the 1st st ; ch 2, sc in
the next fsc ;
(ch
5, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till the last 2 fsc ;
ch
2, dc in the last fsc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(8
dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp)
;
rep
(to) till the last ch-5 sp ;
ch
3, dc in the last dc. Turn.
In
the following row, we will work a picot stitch.
Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.
Our
picot is a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd st from hk)
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[(dc
+ picot in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ; dc in the last dc] ;
*sc
in the next ch-5 sp ; rep [to] once* ;
rep
*to* till the end ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
4,sk next 2 picot, sc in the next picot ;
ch
3, sk next picot, sc in the next picot ;
ch 4, sk next 2 picot, dc in the next
sc) ;
rep (to) till the last sc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next dc , sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
(ch
5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the next two ch-4 sps) ;
rep
(to) till end ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 4 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
(ch
5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp)
;
rep
(to) till the last ch-3 sp ;
4
dc in the last ch-3 sp ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ; dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc
+ picot in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[(dc
+ picot in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ; dc in the last dc] ;
*sc
in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep
*to* till the last 4 dc ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 2, sk next picot, sc in the next picot ;
(ch
4, sk next 2 picot, sc in the next picot ;
ch
3, sk next picot, sc in the next picot ;
ch 4, sk next 2 picot, dc in the next
sc) ;
rep (to) till the last 5 dc ;
ch
4, sk next 2 picot, sc in the next picot ;
ch
2, sk next picot, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 9 : Rep
instructions of Row 1, but work with the ch-sps you have created
dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
(ch
5, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
5, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
rep
(to) till the last ch-4 sp ;
ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep
Rows 2 – 9 till you reach the shoulders.
As
I said before, we are not decreasing or shaping for the armholes, and later we
will just join up for the sleeves.
The
easy way to go is to work two exact same rectangles – one each for the back and
front. Then join shoulders and sides ;
and work the small sleeve. You will get
a lovely off-the-shoulder creation.
In
case you decide to work a U or V or square necked pattern, here is an idea of
how to go about it.
Neck shaping :
The
pattern along the front is exactly as for back – so you will start from the
base and work all the way to the neckline.
At that portion, place a marker for the centre point of the neck and
work the pattern back to the armhole.
Complete one side first and then come back to work the second side of
the neckline.
In
case you want a shaping done, I’d suggest working 4 dc in the last sequence
(instead of 9 dc) so you get a shaped neckline.
Alter
the pattern according to the shape you want for your neckline – go ahead,
create and make something unusual and beautiful.
Sleeve ideas :
In
case you want a sleeve, once you have completed back and front, join shoulders
and sides leaving an armhole opening.
Re-attach your yarn at the corner of the armhole and run row of ch-5 sps
evenly across the armhole opening.
Keep
the same pattern in mind and calculate ch-5 sps accordingly. IN case this is too confusing, first start
with a round of sc all around the armhole in multiples of 20. You can then work the ch-5 sps easier all
around. Once you have that done, work
the pattern in rounds for the length you desire for the sleeve.
More ideas
With
this beautiful creation, I have already given you ideas on neckline – so you
can get an off-the shoulder top as well.
If you make it short then you get a neat off the shoulder cropped top as
well.
Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. Start and end with ch-4 sps if working two
halves of the front (for jacket). Then
I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and
base of jacket using the same pattern all around just once.
Have
fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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