SARAL
TOP
Gorgeous and creatively challenging patterns like this are what made me start on my blogs.
You see a lovely easy pattern and then find that as you do not have the
requisite yarn, you do not manage the gauge and therefore you feel you can’t work that
project.
A
few years back, we (in India), did not have a wide range of local yarns and the
international ones were not easy to procure.
A lot has changed with the internet opening up our horizons, to both
yarns as well as free patterns and I hope you enjoy all the hundreds of
patterns I’ve amassed in my blogs.
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The
designer has intended this to be a loose top which also makes it an ideal
cropped top – and a really easy beach cover up top as well.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size. Please read
through all my detailed instructions before you pick up your hook.
Come
along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of our
lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply fingering weight acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm
crochet hook
For
Indians :
Our lovely Indian Anchor, Red rose knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton , Pony
cotton as well as Laura yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you
can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this
blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For
Non-Indians :
Among the other international yarns I’d say you could use Milford Satin
knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10
knitting cottons.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Size made : 34”
(M/L)
This
is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need. The yarn you require will depend on the size
you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work
Difficulty level : Easy to intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Saral
means straight / easy in Marathi and this is what I think this top is.
I thank the designer for the original freebie and for giving me her permission to blog about the tweaks I've made to this project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
This
project is worked in one piece like a rectangle, with a neckline scooped out in
the middle of the project. Then we join
the sides and leave an opening for the armhole.
We
are making the project to go around the chest (or round waist – whichever is
the larger measure), & you will end up with an automatic little sleeve.
I started the pattern with fhdc (foundation half double crochet) and for a quick how to, check the top of this blog for info. I also worked in all hdc, and once again 'how to' is on the top of this blog.
The free pattern is at
Using
the pattern instructions as guidelines for this pattern, I had to rework the stitches a bit to get it
to the size I needed with the yarn I had in hand. For the full pattern, you must visit the link above.
So
what do you do if you do not have the yarn specified?
1.
Start
with the number of stitches needed for your body size and if you find that it
does not work, go up sizes till it works.
If this works for you, go straight off to the pattern sheet now and have
a fun creative day.
2.
In
case this does not work, then you just start with a fhdc chain with an odd
number of stitches till you get the length you need.
3.
Now
how do you calculate the length for your fhdc chain? This pattern is worked
from the front base of the project, across the shoulders and down the back base
of the project all in one continuous row.
I’d suggest you figure out the length you want for this top (say 22”)
and then know that the first row of fhdc that you work needs to be 44’ (22” x
2). OR
4. Get one of
your earlier crochet tops or a well fitting (non-stretch) top that you can use
as a template. Start on your fhdc chain
and see that it goes from the front over the shoulder to the back of your top
and you’re good to go.
5.
You
will then go to the pattern sheet and work it as given. I chose to work hdc (half double crochet) in each stitch as given,
but you can also work dc all through – especially if you intend this to be a
beach cover-up, the "laciness" will look good.
6. Now for the
neckline : Once again you will measure this against your template top. So fold the rectangle you are making and mark
a front and back point for the neckline.
You will then work hdc till the 1st marker (that marks your
front neckline) and sc in each st (for around the neck) till you reach the 2nd
marker, and then continue in hdc all the way down for the back.
7.
For
the next 2 rows, I worked hdc till that 1st marker, and then worked
sl-sts over the sc till the 2nd marker and then hdc all the way down
the back. I found that that worked to
give me a shape for the neckline.
8.
I
did work the chain as given by the designer, but the number was not the
same. So you just count the number of
stitches between the two markers you’ve placed for the side you just worked,
and you will work that many stitches.
Basically, you are working the chains for the number of stitches you are
skipping along the side – but you did get that, I know.
9. Then I
worked 1 row of sc and 2 rows of sl-st along this chain row as well, and then
continued with the pattern in hdc all through.
10. Remember
that the pattern has a set of hdc rows, and then a lacy dc ; ch 1, dc row – so
try to keep this pattern going along that centre divided portion as well. In case you find it too difficult to work the
pattern along the division, just work hdc all through on both sides of the
neckline, and once you finished the division, go back to the pattern. Just ensure that you have an even number of
rows on either side of the neck division.
11. Before you
head off to finish the right side of your top, ensure that you slip the project
over your head and it fits well.
I
have just finished a top with a rectangle construction and then after joining
the sides, I made a short set of sleeves.
Using that same idea, I finished joining the sides leaving the armhole
and then worked the same pattern along the armholes too once more, to get a
small sleeve. You do get a bit of a
sleeve even without this addition – but I had the yarn, I had the idea, I
thought it would work.. and it did ! So hey, see what works for you.
I
think this is a pretty cool project, and though I do not repeat patterns, I
feel I am going to work on this one again to make it slightly fitted! Do watch
this space for more fun freebies.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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