Sweet Nothings Crochet: GULABI TOP

GULABI TOP

This is an interesting top with a front opening that’s worked into the pattern of the yoke, and it looks easy enough.

I hope you enjoy working on my Gulabi top.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 250 gms of 4-Seasons Flinders 8-ply knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)

You can make this project to any size. Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

The pattern and the stitches itself are easy, but the calculations and the attachment of yoke are a wee bit tricky.

That said, do come along and you may just realize you are able to do more than you thought you could!

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

For this pattern we will start at the base of the top and work our way to the armholes. The top yoke bit is worked with a tiny little cap-sleeve (that is worked as part of the yoke).

The pattern for the lower part and the yoke part are slightly different, so we work two patterns in one.. how fun is that?

You can make this project to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.

In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/1bzbbEjOC1o for the stitch pattern for the body of our Gulabi top

The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 7 + 3

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 7 + 3. Turn.

From our very first row, we’ll work a “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

sk next fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ;

(sk next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) till the last 2 fsc ;

sk next fsc, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

In the following row we will be working on both the dc that form the “V”-st.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

2 dc in the next dc (1^st leg of the 1^st “V”-st) ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc (2^nd leg of the same 1^st “V”-st) ;

*sk next dc , dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

sk next dc, 2 dc in the next dc (1^st leg of the next “V”-st) ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc (2^nd leg of the same “V”-st)* ;

rep *to* till the last leg of the last “V”-st ;

2 dc in that last leg ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ;

*sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole level. At that point we will be changing the pattern, so if you decide that you love this pattern, and then just work this pattern all the way to the shoulders.

Now before we go ahead with the yoke pattern, as per design – here are some other newer ideas.

Work two rectangles one each for the front and back, join at the shoulders, join the sides leaving an armhole opening, and you have a neat off-the-shoulder top all ready to go.

If you decide to work the pattern as charted, then work only till the armholes, and come back here for the second part of the pattern.

So if you are working the two rectangles and same pattern all the way through, you need to work in a neckline.

In case you decide to work a U or V or square necked pattern, here is an idea of how to go about it.

YOKE :

There are two ways to start on the yoke.

1) Start the yoke as a separate piece and then attach it on to the yoke part of the top.

2) Attach the yarn to the two ends of the work you have just done for the base of the top, and work just sufficient stitches for the sleeves.

Whatever choice you make, ensure that you keep the stitch count in mind.

Our stitch count for the yoke is in multiples of 7 + 5.

So how long do you make this first row? You already have the base done (till armhole), right? So decide how much of an overlap you want over the shoulders for the sleeve and work that many extra stitches. You can easily work a gauge because the stitch count for the yoke is the same as that for the top.. so go ahead calculate and start.

In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/Dxh2Ls50JBE for the tutorial of the yoke pattern

Start : with fsc in multiples of 7 + 5. Turn.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ; ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

*ch 7, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 fsc ;

ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st sc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-7 sp ; 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

2 dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 2, sc in the next dc ;

*ch 7, sk next 2 dc + 1 sc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-7 sp ;

ch 2, sk last ch-2 sp, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 2, sc in the 1^st ch-2 sp ;

*ch 7, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 5, sk next dc , sc in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, sc in the last sc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 – 5 till you reach the shoulder level.

General neckline shaping ideas :

For the neckline, it’s pretty simple.

1) You just divide the front section at the centre point.

2) You then work from one armhole to the centre point and back

3) Work as many rows as you have for the back.

4) Re-join for the second side and work exactly as you have for the first side.

5) You can take this pattern all the way to the top or you can shape for the last few rows

6) If you decide to shape, all you gotta do is decide how much of a shoulder you want and work only to that part.

7) Once you have finished both sides and back, work a few rows of sc all around

8) You can finish with either a row of crab stitch (reverse single crochet) or a row of picot.

How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

If the video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

How to work the Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : In case the video tutorial does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Neck shaping :

The pattern along the front is exactly as for back – so you will start from the base and work all the way to the neckline. At that portion, place a marker for the centre point of the neck and work the pattern back to the armhole. Complete one side first and then come back to work the second side of the neckline.

Alter the pattern according to the shape you want for your neckline – go ahead, create and make something unusual and beautiful.

Here is a chart for general measurements. Please note that these are just for an idea and may not work for you. As always, I suggest that you keep a well fitting top to map your work off.

Sleeve ideas :

With my Gulabi top, I worked the yoke pattern such that I got a sleeve on each side.

So if you have worked my pattern, skip this section.

However, if you decided to take any one of the above patterns (i.e. that of the body or that of the yoke) and work a whole top in that pattern, then here is an idea for what you can do.

So I'd suggest that if you are making your top this way, you work that pattern as two rectangles - one each for the front and back.

Once you have completed back and front, join shoulders and sides leaving an armhole opening.

Re-attach your yarn at the corner of the armhole and

run round of sc in multiples of 7.

You can then work the pattern easier all around.

Once you have that done, work the pattern in rounds for the length you desire for the sleeve.

More ideas

With this beautiful creation, I have already given you ideas on neckline – so you can get an off-the shoulder top as well. If you make it short then you get a neat off the shoulder cropped top as well.

Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. Start and end with ch-4 sps if working two halves of the front (for jacket). Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using the same pattern all around just once.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html