Sweet Nothings Crochet: DELICATE VIBRANT YOKE

DELICATE VIBRANT YOKE

Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet’s free patterns blog.

Today a simple strappy cami is getting a D.I.Y-ed to jazz it up just a little bit. I found this simple pattern as, and I plan on making this as a yoke, adding sleeves as well.

Read all the way to the end to see how you can make this into a top or a crop top.

My blogs make you think, just a little bit.

I just have sufficient yarn for a yoke, so that’s what I’m making – but as I reached the end of my creation, I found that this would make a really lovely top too. So, if you’re ok with a straight finish to the armholes, then hey .. here’s the idea – go ahead and make this into a top. I think this will make an absolutely awesome top.

For the sleeves then, we will just go around the armhole opening with the same pattern. Experiment and be different

I may make this pattern into a top too someday.. so let’s see if you beat me to it.

Do remember to tag me if you do make it, so I can see your beautiful creation too.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used some Milford Satin (Satin Holiday Green) 2-ply cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used twice as thick as our Indian Vardhaman / Oswal acrylic yarns or Laura knitting cotton .

You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn ; but you could also use Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky to make this pattern - even if not for a top

Difficulty level : Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

ch(s) : chain(s ch-sp : chain space

sp(s) : space(s) rep : Repeat

hk : hook yo : Yarn over

sk : Skip lp(s) : Loop(s)

st(s) : Stitch(es)

fsc : Foundation single crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used : Using US terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is a straight simple pattern.

We work one side of the yoke at a time.

The pattern is the same for both front and back.

The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the neckline.

As I'm going to stitch this onto a cami, I'm going to try and map the neck and arm shaping of my cami.

Our first row is worked for half the round chest / bust measure for whatever length you want for your yoke / top

Now you can be adventurous and make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).

For a regular length top, you will start at the waist (or hips) and that will be the length.

The width is the first row - calculations mentioned above.

For a crop top, you will start just below the bust and that will be the length.

The width is the first row - calculations mentioned above.

The neckline / armhole / sleeve are all the same for a yoke / top or crop top

The stitch count is also the same for all three projects.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 2.

Front

Back

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Start : with fsc in multiples of 3 + 2 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

sk next fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;

(sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) till the end ;

sk next fsc, dc in the last fsc . Turn

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

sk next dc, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc, rep (to) all in the next dc) ;

rep *to* till the last 2 d ;

sk next dc, dc in the last dc . Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) till the last ch-sp ;

dc in the last dc . Turn

... and that's our pattern done !

Rep Rows 2 & 3 (ending with Row 2) till we reach the armhole / neckline level and work our decreases.

Now here’s where calculations come in.

1) You can work a rectangle (with the width being the fsc chain you start with and the length being the height you need from chest/bust to shoulder.

When done, attach the two shoulder parts and sides, leaving an armhole. This will give you a small boat-like neckline and you will get a tiny sleeve.

The advantage with this creation is that you do not really need any calculations - just width and length.

To attach it to the cami, fold your work in half and just stitch the cami straps.

The wearer will then just slip it on like a cami and the yoke will add a bit of jazz to it.

If you want a shaped armhole and neckline then you need to calculate :

For armhole : check the decrease ideas given below

For neckline :

a) Fold your work in half and figure out the two corners for the neckline.

Place markers there.

We will use these markers for our first row and will work from one armhole corner to the 1^st marker and back. We will then work from the armhole to marker & back all the way till the shoulders. We will then fasten off and work the mirror image for the second shoulder.

For the second shoulder, you will re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker and work from the marker to the armhole and back

As with the first section, you will work just from marker to armhole & back till you reach the same level as the first side for shoulder.

Fasten off and you have finished the front of your yoke or top

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Armhole decrease : Row 1 :

sl-st into the 1st ch-sp, (sc ; ch 1, hdc) all in the same 1st ch-sp ;

3 dc in the next ch-sp and in each ch-sp till the last one ;

[hdc ; ch 1, sc] all in the last ch-sp. Turn.

Armhole decrease : Row 2 :

ch 3, sk the 1st sc, hdc & dc and into the 2nd dc (of the 1st 3-dc set),

dc in that 2nd dc ;

*sk next 2 dc , [dc ; ch 1, dc] in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the 2nd last 3-dc set ;

sk next 2 dc , dc in the next st. Turn.

Armhole decrease : Row 3 :

dc in the 1st dc ;

3 dc in each ch-sp till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Armhole decrease : Row 4 :

dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc

2 dc in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc , [dc ; ch 1, dc] in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 3-dc set ;

sk next 2 dc , 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Check if this is where you want to start decreasing for neckline.

How to check? If working (like I have) over a cami or tee-shirt, then place work over the cami now.

IF making a top, then place it over a well-fitting top to see if neckline depth / plunge is right

IF none of the above, then visit https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/ for body size charts.

Neckline shaping :

For this section read the instructions above and place your markers.

Neckline Row 1 : (Armhole end) :

2 dc in the 1^st st ;

3 dc in the next ch-sp and each ch-sp till the one before the marker ;

(dc + hdc + sc) in the marked ch-sp. Turn.

Neckline Row 2 : (Neckline end) :

ch 2, sk past the sc & hdc , dc in the next dc ;

sk next dc , 2 dc in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc , (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last st ;

2 dc in the last st. Turn.

Neckline Row 3 : (Armhole end) :

2 dc in the 1^st st ;

3 dc in the next ch-sp and each ch-sp till the last 2 dc ;

sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Neckline Row 4 : (Neckline end) :

dc in the 1st dc ;

sk next dc , (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc , (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Neckline Row 5 : (Armhole end) :

2 dc in the 1^st st ;

3 dc in the next ch-sp and each ch-sp till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your shoulder straps are done.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach your yarn at the marker or the mirrored image / stitches for the other side of your shoulder straps and continue all the way to complete this end as well.
Once done, fasten off and weave in ends.

We’ve completed one side / front of the yoke (or top).

Mirror these instructions for the other side / back for the yoke or top, deciding only how deep you would like the neckline for that section.

Join both shoulders and sides, on completion.

Use one of the joining methods given below

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is !

Or if you have decided to make this a full top, then that’s even more beautiful, isn’t it?

You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!

Sleeve ideas :

You can leave this creation sleeveless too - but here are ideas for making the sleeve

1) We will work one round of sc all around the armhole opening and join at the end to the 1st st.

2) We will work in rounds for the sleeve, joining at the end of every round.

3) Make a note of this number of stitches you work for the first armhole, so you can work the same number for both sleeves

The stitch count for our sleeve is in multiples of 3

So when you work the first round of sc all around the armhole opening, ensure you get a count in multiples of 3.

The pattern is the same that you have worked for the body, but we join at the end.

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Round 1 : Work a round of sc all around in multiples of 3.

Join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Keep a note of the number of stitches for ease in working the other sleeve.

Round 2 : 3 dc in the 1^st dc ;

(sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in the sc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 2nd dc of the 1st 3-dc set ;

(dc ; ch 1, dc) all in that same 1st dc ;

*sk next 2 dc, rep (to) all in the next dc) ;

rep *to* all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-sp and each ch-sp all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

... and that's our pattern done !

Check Optional Last Round idea before you rush off to start your repeats.

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 (ending with Round 4), for the length you want for your sleeve.

Fasten off and weave in ends

Re-attach yarn for the 2nd armhole and make same sleeve

I've worked picot for half the round and there's no picot for the other half to show you the difference

Optional Last Round : Picot Round

Work Round 4, adding a picot in the 2nd dc of each 3-dc set.

Depending on the thickness of your yarn, work a ch-3 or ch-5 picot

For thinner yarn you could work a ch-5 picot, but with any yarn a ch-3 picot will look just right too.

I've worked a ch-3 picot to finish.

Picot Finish Round :

(2 dc + picot + dc) all in the 1st ch-sp and each ch-sp all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

.. and here's how it looks with & without a sleeve

Neckline Finishing :

Work a round of sc or hdc all around the neckline for a neat finish.

You can then work a round of picot all around (to match the end of your sleeves)

I'd suggest you work a picot every 3rd st. If you do this, you need to ensure that you have worked stitches in multiples of 3 here as well.

Picot round for multiples of 3 :

sc in the 1st st ;

*(sc + picot + sc) in the next st ; sc in the next 2 sts* ;

rep *to* all around and join to the 1st st with a sl-st.

You can work a picot every alternate st as well.

If you do this, you need to ensure that you have worked stitches in multiples of 2 or even numbers

Picot round for multiples of 2 :

sc in the 1st st ;

*(sc + picot + sc) in the next st ; sc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around and join to the 1st st with a sl-st.

Then you need to weave in and tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

If you’re working a yoke, then attach the yoke to the t-shirt, and you could then cut away the t-shirt bits from inside of the yoke, so that you can show some skin and of course your lovely crochet work out too.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html