Sweet Nothings Crochet: A SIMPLE BOLERO

A Simple Bolero - crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This is a really quick & easy 1-row repeat pattern that gives you this beautiful lacy bolero or jacket. You'll be amazed with the ease and speed with which this project builds up - and how light and lacy it looks.

With this pattern there are so many ideas and possibilities.

Remember to read all the way till the end of this blog to get all these ideas. Come along..let’s get this cool top done.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 100 gms of an DMC Petra knitting cotton yarn with a 1.75 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is almost similar in thickness to our Red rose or White rose knitting cottons. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn is a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 32 (S)

You can make this project to any size.

Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Find a sizing chart here : https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

We work this pattern in two parts - one for the back and two pieces for the front.

You need the round bust, round waist measurement and you will choose whichever is the larger measure for the first row. As we are working back and front separately, we will need half of this round measure for the first row calculation.

You also need the round armhole and neckline depth/dip measurement.

In case you are making this as a general size, check the sizing chart above for general body sizes.

The stitch count is in multiples of 5 + 1

1 : BACK :

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Row 1 : Start with fsc in multiples of 3 + 1 for half the round waist / bust measurement. Turn.

Note : In case you wish to start with regular chain, please work in multiples of 5 + 2, and then work the first sc in the 2nd chain from hook and work sc all the way down the chain. At the end of your row, ensure that you have multiples of 5 + 1.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Shell stitch : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ;

(sk next 3 fsc, Shell st in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) till the last 3 sts,

sk last 3 sts, dc in the last st. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(Shell st in the ch-1 sp of the next shell st) ;

rep (to) all the way till the last shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

and that's it.. that's our pattern done for the body of our project.

Work all the way in pattern, till you reach the neckline or armhole (depending on depth of neckline or half armhole measure, whichever measure comes first)

How do I know when to stop pattern for the neckline depth or armhole?

You know the length you want for your jacket, right? So let's assume you want a length of 18" from shoulder.

Check round armhole measurement. Let's assume this is 12", so half this is 6"

This means you will subtract this from the length (18 - 6 = 12") and work 12" till you reach the armhole.

Now, here's where you have to check the depth of neckline. In case your neckline is 7", you will subtract 7 from the length (18 - 7 = 11") and one side (which will be neckline deduction) will stop at 11" , and you will work 1" more to start shaping for the armhole.

With shaping both neckline and armhole, remember to keep the shoulder measurement handy. If the shoulder is say 4.5", then we shape till we get that size for shoulder.

Yes, a bit of calculation needed, but the beauty here is that you can use whatever yarn you need - without being stuck to getting one particular yarn as suggested in a pattern.

Right so back to our pattern - we work a rectangle till you reach either the neckline or armhole decrease point. I am just going to give you ideas for both decreases, but you need to work it when you need it (i.e. at the point that you need to decrease).

Back Neckline shaping :

The neckline shaping idea is the same for back and front.

The only difference is that we work a lower neckline for the front and not as low for the back, generally. That said, you could have a similarly low neck for back and front.

Measure the round neck and divide it in half (one half is the back measurement) OR check the neckline measurement from a top that fits you well.

Generally ladies have a neckline measurement of 4".

So this means that you need to first find the centre of your last row and place a marker there. Then place 2 markers 2" on either side of that centre marker. Remove the centre marker.

You will now work till marker and then back to the other side (armhole) and continue thus till you reach the shoulders.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

What are we doing differently for the split dc 2-tog?

In today's pattern we work a split dc 2-tog. One leg of the dc 2-tog is in the ch-sp of the last Shell st and the 2nd leg of the dc 2-tog is on the last dc.

Decrease row 1 : dc in the 1st dc

Shell st in each Shell st till 3 Shell sts before the marker ;

Split dc 2-tog over the ch-sp of the 3rd last Shell st and the next Shell st. Turn.

Decrease row 2 : Split dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the ch-sp of the next Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc

Decrease row 3 : Dc in the 1st dc ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Continue without any further decrease till you reach the armhole decrease or the shoulder (depending on your armhole and neckline measurement)

You've completed one side of the back neckline decrease. For the other side, mirror the instructions. Re-attach yarn at the armhole and start again.

For advanced experienced crocheters : If you are fussy about stitches facing the same direction, then you need to re-attach yarn at the 2nd marker, but then you need to reverse instructions accordingly as well.

Back Armhole shaping :

If you want a small sleeve that just flops over the shoulder, then you do not need to decrease for the armhole. We will be adding a small cap sleeve anyway but you can just work all the way to the shoulders without an armhole decrease (just working the neckline decrease for shape) if you want. I'll strongly recommend this as it's not just easy but it works really well.

Decrease row 1 : Sl-st past the 1st shell, and sl-st into the ch-sp of the

2nd Shell st ;

dc in that 2nd Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the 2nd last Shell st ;

dc in the 2nd last dc. Turn.

(leave last shell unworked)

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

What are we doing differently for our dc 2-tog?

In today's pattern we work a split dc 2-tog. One leg of the dc 2-tog is in the ch-sp of the last Shell st and the 2nd leg is on the last dc.

Decrease row 2 : Split dc 2-tog over the 1st dc & the next ch-1 sp of the Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the 2nd last Shell st ;

Split dc 2-tog over the last ch-sp and the last dc. Turn.

Decrease row 3 : Dc in the 1st st (which is that split dc 2-tog) ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the the last Shell st ;

dc in the last st (which is again that split dc 2-tog). Turn.

Continue without any further decrease till you reach the shoulder

One back complete.

2 : FRONT :

We work 2 front pieces with the same pattern as for back, but working with half the back measurement.
Repeat all the back instructions for the front, keeping the back as a template for the armhole decrease till you reach the shoulder

While the neckline decrease idea is the same, we work it in two halves for each half of our project - so I've given it to you again.

Front Neckline decrease :

Decrease row 1 : Sl-st past the 1st 2 shells, and sl-st into the ch-sp of the

3rd Shell st ;

dc in that 3rd Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Once again we work a split dc 2-tog.

Decrease row 2 : Dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the 2nd last Shell st ;

Split dc 2-tog over the last ch-sp and the last dc. Turn.

Decrease row 3 : Dc in the 1st st (which is that split dc 2-tog) ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Continue without any further decrease till you reach the armhole decrease or the shoulder (depending on your armhole and neckline measurement)

Note : Remember that you will reverse these instructions for the other side / neckline.

The armhole shaping idea is the same as for back - but only one side at a time.

Decrease row 1 : Sl-st past the 1st shell, and sl-st into the ch-sp of the

2nd Shell st ;

dc in that 2nd Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Once again we work a split dc 2-tog.

Decrease row 2 : Dc in the 1st dc ;

dc in the next Shell st ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the 2nd last Shell st ;

Split dc 2-tog over the last ch-sp and the last dc. Turn.

Decrease row 3 : Dc in the 1st st (which is that split dc 2-tog) ;

Shell st in each Shell st till the the last Shell st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Continue without any further decrease till you reach the shoulder

Note : Remember if you are working the shaping for armhole, you will reverse these instructions for the other side.

So once you complete two front parts, you can attach it to the back along the shoulders and sides, using one of the methods given below.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

For advanced crocheters : You can use the Join-as-you-go method to join the shoulders for a seamless finish. I'd start from the armhole end and work to the centre, using ch-3 spaces, and working it between the ch-sps of each shell.

So sc in the 1st st ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next Shell st ch-3 sp of the back portion of project) ;

(ch 3, sc in the next Shell st ch-3 sp of the front portion of project)* ;

rep *to* till the marker or last st ;

sc in the last st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join-as-you-go joining method : https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk

You will now join sides till armhole.

This is what you do whether you have worked an armhole decrease or not.

In case you have not worked a decrease, calculate half the armhole measurement (which is what you have to do if you were planning on shaping the armhole anyway), and join till that point. Easy enough, right?

3 : SLEEVES :

Let's work a small cap lacy sleeve all around the armhole opening.

For this we first need to work a round of ch-sps. We're working along the vertical dc bars, so I've just worked sc in each dc bar all around and chains in between the sc.

Re-attach your yarn at the bottom of the armhole.

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Round 1 : Sc in the 1st st ;

(ch 3, sc in the next dc bar) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 1 and hdc into the 1st st.

Note 1 : This brings you into the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

In case you are not happy with this, ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Then work your way using a sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp to start Round 2.

Note 2 : Try the sleeve on and see if its loose enough. If you find it too fitted and want a little more 'give', please work ch-5 (instead of ch-3) all around.

If you do this, remember that in Round 2, you are working into a ch-5 sp - so follow Round 3 & 4 instructions and work 4 rounds in total.

Round 2 : Sc in the 1st st ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2 and dc into the 1st st.

Once again we're in the centre of the ch-5 sp and start right here.

In case you are not happy with this, ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Then work your way using a sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp to start Round 3.

Rounds 3 & 4 : Sc in the 1st st ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2 and dc into the 1st st.

You can repeat this as many times as you want, but I think a short cute cap sleeve works really well for this pattern.

4. NECKLINE BORDER :

Let's work a border all around the neckline and front of the jacket as well as armhole.

I've given you four ideas - choose what works best.

For Ideas 1 - 3, I'd start from the front bottom and work along (towards the shoulders or neckline) the edge till the shaping, work 3 sc in that corner st and then go around the neckline to the other side, again work 3 sc in the front top lapel corner and then down the other lapel to the bottom. Remember at each corner we need to work 3 sc (so we have a total of 4 corners).

In the follow round, whatever border pattern you choose (from the 3 ideas below), you will work 3 sc in that centre sc in each corner for a flat finish.

Ideas :

1) You can leave it all simple and work a round of sc all around - or several rows of sc all around. This will give it a flat finish. In working the sc rounds, if you decide to work in a button placket, then remember to add button holes on one side.

2) You can work the sc edging and then work picots in the last round. This will give you a cute flat finish as well as a delicate end. I'd work picots every 3rd or 5th st depending on the thickness (or fine-ness) of my yarn. It would also make sense to count the stitches you have and then see what spacing works most evenly for you.

I'd work it such a way that I ensure we have a picot in each centre stitch of each corner.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case the video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

3) You can work a few rounds of sc all around and then work a round of crab stitch or reverse single crochet to finish. This would mean that you do not have to calculate number of stitches and yet get a beaded finish.

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case it does not open, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

4) You can work the same pattern that we've worked around the armhole.

For this, remember we're working ch-sps all around, and again working it along the horizontal bars of the dc.

The only difference is that at each corner, we will work a ch-3 sp into the same st (just as we worked 3 sc into the same corner st at each corner for Ideas 1 - 3)

Re attach your yarn at the corner st of the front lapel

Round 1 : Sc in the 1st ; ch 3, sc in the same 1st st ;

(ch 3, sc in the next dc bar) ;

*rep (to) till you reach the corner ;

ch 3, sc in the same st*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Before we work Round 2, please check that you have ch-sps in multiple of 2 + 1.

If not, just go ahead and squeeze one in.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ;

Sc in the 1st sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2 and dc into the 1st st.

Once again we're in the centre of the ch-5 sp and start right here.

In case you are not happy with this, ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Then work your way using a sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp to start Round 3.

You can work one more round, but this should do.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ;

9 dc in the 1st ch-sp ; sc in the next ch-sp

(9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now even with this border, you can choose to add a round of picot.

If you want to do this, I'd work the picot in the 5th dc.

Round 3 with picot : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ;

5 dc + picot + 4 dc all in the 1st ch-sp ; sc + picot in the next ch-sp

(5 dc + picot + 4 dc all in the next ch-5 sp ; sc + picot in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

sc + picot and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

and that's our beautiful simple lacy bolero all done

One beautiful lacy Simple Bolero all done

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