Sweet Nothings Crochet: BAMBOO JACKET

BAMBOO JACKET

My sister-in-law found this gorgeous yarn on Marketplace and I couldn't resist making this jacket for her. I totally recommend this lovely bamboo blended yarn - its soft, easy to use and has a great fall.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 800gms of an Yatsal bamboo blended yarn with a 3.25 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 44 (XL)

You can make this project to any size.

Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Find a sizing chart here : https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

My sister-in-law I found an image on the net and these are just my notes I work on my project.

Before we start, let's get a few calculations out of the way.

a) We need round bust, round waist and round hip measurements.

As always, please use the largest measurement for your calculations

b) We also need round armhole and sleeve length if you are making sleeves

c) We need depth of neckline for front & back if you are going to keep them at different lengths / heights

d) Finally as always I suggest you keep a well fitting top that you can use as a draft

e) With all my patterns, as you know, there is are several options and ideas offered, giving you lots of chance to be as unique and creative as you like. Enjoy.

We will be making five rectangles - one for the back ; two for the front and two for the sleeves. Easy enough. Let's start.

BACK : (Make one piece)

The stitch count for the back is in multiples of 3

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 3 for half the round waist measurement. Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ;

(ch 1, sk next fsc , dc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Rep Row 3 till you reach the length you need for your top. The bottom row (where we started) is the base of the top and where you end will be the shoulders.

One rectangle for the back complete

FRONT : (Make two pieces)

The stitch count for the front is in multiples of 6

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 6 for half the front waist or 1/4th the round waist measurement. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ;

(ch 1, sk next fsc , dc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

Notes : 1) In the following row we will sk a few dc and the ch-sps in between. I will only tell you about the dc skips as that is the obvious one.

2) If you are making this for a smaller size (S/M) you will start with lesser number of sts and then your *to* repeat may not be as many times as given. You can either work the *to* repeat once/twice and then work the (to) till end OR you can work *to* 3 as given and work (to) in any sts that remain.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

Today we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use it as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

*[ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till you reach the dc before the ch-5 sp ;

*[ch 5, sc on the dc 2-tog] ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

Note : Remember that you repeat *to* and (to) as many times as you need to - or as you have worked in Row 3.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

*[ch 5, sc on the sc] ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Note : Remember that you repeat *to* and (to) as many times as you need to - or as you have worked in Row 5.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till you reach the dc before the ch-5 sp ;

*[ch 5, dc 2-tog on the sc] ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

*ch 1, dc in the ch-5 sp ;

[ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp]

ch 1 dc in the next dc 2-tog ;

ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

This completes one pattern repeat.

Rep Rows 3 - 8 till you reach the shoulders.

If you choose to shape front neckline, rep Rows 3 - 8, ending with Row 8 till the point you want to shape for neckline.

Note : If you want to shape for the front neckline, you will repeat the pattern only till that point. Please scroll down for the ideas given for neck shaping.

If you repeat to the shoulders, then you will get a small 'collar' like finish as the top centre parts of the jacket will 'flap open' after you join the shoulders.

Once you complete both front sections, please use one of these methods to join the front to the back.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

You will join sides from the base all the way till the point where you need to split for armhole, leaving an armhole opening.

For the armhole opening, you will measure from shoulders down the sides using half round armhole measurement.

You will then join the shoulders, leaving a neckline opening.

For the neckline opening, you first fold the back in half and find the centre point. Then using that centre point, mark 2 points on either side which will be half the neckline measure for back. The easiest way to figure this out will be to use a well fitting garment (not a stretch garment - regular cotton fabric garment works best). So say neckline for back is 8", then you will measure 4" on either side of that marked centre point. Got it?

Then work from the side of the shoulder till this marked point ; skip the neckline portion (say 8") in between and then join the other shoulder blade too.

Please note : As we have made a rectangle presentation, we will have a drop shoulder. This means that the shoulder attachment will be slightly off the shoulder and on the upper arm. You must remember this when you are working on the (length of) sleeve.

Neckline decrease ideas :

You have rep Rows 3 - 8 ending with Row 8 till you reach the point you're shaping for neckline at this point.

One side of jacket showing neckline decrease

Note : As I am working on a slightly larger size, I've worked sl-st past the 1st 9 sts and then worked a dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, skipping the ch-1 sp in between.

Instructions given below are for general use. Note that what you must figure is the width of the shoulder blade and the gap you need for the back neckline opening.

For the back neckline opening, fold garment in half and find centre. Then place 2 markers on either side that will determine the width (So say you want an 8" back neckline you will place markers at 4" on either side of the centre fold). You then decide width of shoulder (blades) and see that you get the front shoulder blade at the same point as that for the back. Easy enough, right? 😊

Decrease Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till the last 4 dc ;

dc 2-tog over the 5th and 4th last dc, skipping the ch-1 sp in between.

Turn. (Leave the last 3 dc unworked)

Decrease Row 2 : dc 2-tog over the 1st and 2nd dc, skipping the ch-1 sp in between ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times

*[ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* once ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn

Decrease Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till you reach the dc before the ch-5 sp ;

*[ch 5, sc on the dc 2-tog] ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 dc , just after working the last ch-5 ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc, skipping the ch-1 sp in between.

dc in the last dc. Turn

Decrease Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

*[ch 5, sc on the sc] ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* and then work rep of (to) till the end. Turn

We have a lovely curve for our neckline and here we stop our decreases.

We now continue in pattern till we reach the shoulders.

At the neckline end, we will end with ch-5 and dc in the last dc.

We start the following row in the same way at neckline end, with dc and then ch-5 and work the next pattern till the armhole end.

Notes : Remember that when you are following pattern we work 2 dc with ch-1 sps in between in the ch-5 sp. So when working this pattern and the ch-5 sp at the start, we work in the same way working ch-1 + dc twice in that starting ch-5 sp too.

Sleeve ideas :

The jacket works well with a short or pair of long sleeves but the method is the same for both.

Re-attach your yarn at the top (shoulder) centre or bottom of the armhole.

I chose to attach at the top shoulder.

I have also chosen to work 3 pattern repeats along the centre of the sleeve - so my centre top shoulder attachment worked well.

If you choose to make the same simple back pattern all through the sleeves, attach at the bottom of the armhole so that your attachment line is not seen.

If you are working the sleeve pattern : I started at the centre dc 2-tog of the pattern and then worked the ch-5 sp and then the (to) or (ch 1, dc in the next dc) part of the pattern ; I then worked one complete pattern ; then worked the (to) again till I was 10 dc (which includes all the ch-sps) from the end - at which point you work the spider-like pattern again ending with a ch-5 and join to the 1st dc 2-tog.

Yes, I know this sounds daunting but take it one stitch at a time and you will find it not so bad.

Once you get that first round done the rest is easier - trust me.

I ended with 2 rounds of hdc like I did for the full border of the jacket.

Border pattern :

I choose to work 2 rounds of hdc all around the base working continuously from base, up one side (front) , around the back neckline and down the other side (front) to finish at the base.

Note : 1) The base already has one row of fsc that we started with - so you may want to work a row of sc for the front and neckline too (to match)
2) Remember to work 3 hdc in each corner st (base of front and around neckline corners) to get a neat finish.

3) You could also end with a row of Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

4) You could also add in a button loop right at the top corner if you want

How to make a loop for your button : https://youtu.be/oocVo-ZNIcM

5) A round of picot also adds a cute & neat finish.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case it does not open, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

.. and that's one soft beautiful Bamboo Jacket done. What do you think?

.. and that's one soft beautiful Bamboo Jacket all done. What do you think? 😄

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