Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED CROPPED TOP

Shelled Cropped Top - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

Today's crochet top has three sets of ideas - a plain yoke, a very lacy shelled pattern along the body and then an awesome border.

A friend chose this top from a Pinterest link, and of course, as all new ideas are a challenge for me.. so I happily took it on. As usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. The original pattern is all lacy, but I've decided to change this just a bit.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used an lovely 100% Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

While the pattern itself is pretty easy to follow and can be attempted by persons used to an Easy skill level, there is a lot that’s left to your creativity and knowledge. That said, do come along, it’s not that scary.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat
sc : Single crochet
hk : hook yo : Yarn over
sl-st : Slip stitch st(s) : Stitch(es)

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

INSTRUCTIONS (Using U.S. terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So as usual, before we start, a quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. This is a lovely pattern starts at the hemline or base of the top, and then we work our way up to the neck and shoulders.
There is no shaping for the armhole, as we will just straighten out after the pattern (just under bust) and go straight on up to the top.

One tip : I know that sizing and calculations thereof are pretty worrisome.
So what I usually do is try to keep a template ( a top that fits the intended) in hand, and I check against the size(s) there to ensure that I am keeping to the straight and narrow

Now here’s the twist in this pattern.
This is a cropped top, which means that it is

(a) not a fitting one (well, at least not around the waist / midriff area and

(b) It is short.
So if you’re making this project then, remember that your first start row needs to be looser than your round waist measurement.

However, one can also use this pattern for a longer and slightly fitted top – as there’s a pattern repeat given .. so let’s get our creative caps on and have fun.

Now our top is going to be worked in three parts.
I am not going with this pattern in full. I am going to take the bottom parts of this pattern, and then make the top a plain dc yoked one.

That said, once you get the pattern going, you can decide how you want to make this one for yourself.

So if you’re doing it my way, we’ve got Part 1 starting at about 3” (I think) from the bottom of the top and working our way up to the shoulders.
Once we reach the neckline part, we will work on Part 2, which is the plain dc yoke.

Part 3 is the lovely shelled border which we will do from the same fdc row that starts Part 1, but working away from shoulders.

I’m going to work in two parts for the lower part of the top and then working it in rounds when we’re working the border.

Right then, so get to it.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 + 1.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fsc or fdc in multiples of 12 till you have a fdc chain that is slightly more than half the round waist / hip of the person you’re making this for.

So right from the word “GO”, we’re going to use our picot stitch.
We will use the 3-ch picot here which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1^st ch).

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Row 1 : sc in 1^st fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc , dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc + picot in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc , sc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

In the following row, we will start with our “V”-st, which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : [dc ; ch 1, 2 dc] all in 1^st sc ;
*(sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, sk next picot, rep (to) once ;
“V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last sc ;
{2 dc ; ch 1, dc} all in the last sc. Turn.

In this row, we will be working mainly in our ch-5 and ch-1 sps (of the “V” st)

Row 3 : sc in 1^st dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and 1 sc , dc in the next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next sc ;
ch 3, sk next sc and 2 dc , sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ;
ch 3, (sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
*“V”-st in the next sc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next sc + picot, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till the last sc ;
ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in 1^st dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc and 2 dc, sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and sc, dc in the next sc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : [dc ; ch 1, 2 dc] all in 1^st sc ;
*(sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, sk next picot, rep (to) once ;
“V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last sc ;
{2 dc ; ch 1, dc} all in the last sc. Turn.

And that’s our repeat complete.
Our pattern repeat for this part is from Rows 3 – 6.

You will see that our “V”-st and picots alternate, so you get that right, and your pattern is right.

Rep Rows 3 – 6 till your project reaches just under the armhole, ending with Row 4 or 6 (one of the non-picot rows)

So Part 1 (this part) is the ‘centre’ of your top ; and then there will be this little border and then the yoke bit. So work this part till you’ve reached the yoke.

We’ll meet back in a bit and do the yoke together.

Part 2 : Yoke

You’ve reached your armhole level, we will do a row of dc’s all through, and we need to ensure that you once again have the same number of stitches as that 1^st foundation row you started with.

Next row : dc in the 1^st dc ;
dc in each dc all the way till the end. Turn.

Repeat the above row till you reach the armhole.

We will then increase stitches each end for a small sleeve.

Increase row : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ;
dc in each dc all the way till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Increase row four times.

We’ve now got a lovely little sleeve, so we will stop increases and just allow our project to ‘grow’ a little till we reach the neck level.

Next row : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc all the way till the end. Turn.

Continue without increase till you reach the neck level you desire.

Measurement for neck :

So I’ve folded my project in half at the neckline, and then marked off a centre neck opening. I then placed markers at the two points that mark the side extremities of the neckline.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Neckline decrease row : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc all the way till 3 sts before the 1^st marker ; dc 3-tog in the last 3 sts. Turn.

This dc 3-tog ensures we get a neat curve to the edge of our neck, and a quick look at how to do the dc 3-tog given below.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Next row : dc 2-tog over in the 1^st 2 st and each dc till end. Turn.

Next row : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till end. Turn.

Rep the above row till your project reaches the shoulder.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach yarn for the other side of the top. Repeat the decrease row and last 2 rows to match the other side of your project. Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 3 : BORDER

I am not sure what the border repeat is per chart, but I’m going to work it with the same repeat of 12 for uniformity (with the body of our top).

If you want this as a frilly border, then I’d suggest you use a repeat of 6. That said, for adults, a frilly border for a top like this may not work.

For our border, we will go back to that fsc foundation row, and work from the other side of the same sts.

So re-attach your yarn at one end and let’s start.

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;
ch 4, sk next 4 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

*ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

In this row, we’ll work our dc 2-tog over 2 different stitches or ch-sps.

Row 2 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st sc and the next ch-4 sp ;
dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
*ch 3, [dc 2-tog over the next two ch-4 sps] ;
ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

In this row, we’ll work our dc 3-tog.

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st sc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog ;
*ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog * ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1^st dc ;
ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

* ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once ;
ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp * ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 4, sc in the last dc. Turn.

We’ve completed one pattern repeat.

Our pattern repeat for this border will be Rows 2 – 5.
Repeat this two times, ending with Row 2.

In our last row, we’ll use our decorative picot stitch.
Our picot is a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1^st ch).

Last Row : sc in the 1^st st ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1 + picot + ch 1 and dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog ;
*ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog * ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

We have now finished one side of your project.

Rep all instructions for the other side of the project.

In the last row though, do not fasten off but leave a long tail to join the back and front of your project.

Fasten the sides of your project and weave in ends.

FINISHING :

For a neat finish, I’d suggest you run a round of sc all around the neckline and armholes, and if you feel like it, maybe do a round of picot as well

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html