Minions.. who doesn’t love them? I was asked to create a crochet minion bag, so here’s what I’ve come up with. This case is multipurpose – from pencils, to make-up / cosmetics, travel, a First aid kit, and if you add on a strap, then a cute little bag for a little girl as well. So have fun.. let’s create.
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Materials used : Polyester purse yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Easy to Intermediate with basic sewing skills.
Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
sc-blo : Single crochet back loop only
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and bag measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
As usual, I’m using yarns available locally in India, and here I’ve used our lovely polyester purse yarns.
We will do the basic case in yellow for the Minion body, and then give it a nice 3D effect by adding the clothing and eyes + spectacles on top. Excited ? Well, I am too.. so let’s start.
There are 5 parts - be patient.
PART 1
We start on our little Minion from the base up to his rounded head.
We will start with blue and continue using blue till there is a change of colour needed.
Now rather than mar this really cute Minion face, I've decided to 'divide' for the zipper just around the neck portion from around the back. My daughter did say that we could have it all around the front as well, and the mouth portion could be the zipper.. well, I didn't want to mar the face, but there's an idea for you to try out..
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Start Round 1 : (using blue) with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;
2 dc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
As I’m happy with the base diameter of 3.5” for my case, I’m going to start working on the sides here.
IF you want a wider base, then please work Optional Round below, else continue with Round 5.
Optional Round : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
To get a nice edge for the bottom of our bag, we’ll use the sc-blo st all around.
Single crochet back loop only (sc-blo) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Round 5 : ch 1 and sc-blo in the 1st dc ;
sc-blo in the each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 : dc in the 1st sc ;
dc in the each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 7 - 10 : Rep Round 6
We are now about 2.5” from the bottom of our minion, and we’ll now introduce the yellow bit in. So let’s now visualise what we’re going to do here.
The part you’re starting at is the back of your minion.
We will work in rounds, dividing the blue for the overalls and then with the yellow of the minion body also coming along – so from this round on, we’re going to use both yellow and blue yarn and carry along the un-used yarn(s).
So 12 sts on either side of the centre back and centre front will be in blue. The side 12 sts will be in yellow.
Attach your yellow yarn.
When not in use, the yarn will be carried along.
Round 11 : (Using blue) dc in the 1st 6 dc ;
(Using yellow) dc in the next 12 dc ;
(Using blue) dc in the next 12 dc ;
(Using yellow) dc in the last 6 dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 12 - 15 : Rep Round 10
Round 16 : (Using blue) dc in the 1st 6 dc and in each dc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 17 : Rep Round 16
Fasten off blue yarn.
Rounds 18 -20 : (Using yellow) Rep Round 16.
Fasten off yellow yarn.
We’ve completed the lower half of our little Minion body.
We will make the face of our Minion from the top of the head and then work down to this part we’ve just made.
The part where we join the top and bottom halves of our little Minion will be his mouth.
As we work the face of the Minion, I am going to restart numbering.
Please note that all instructions below are for the top part of the face, and do not refer to any notes before this.
PART 2 : Minion face :
Start Round 1 : (using yellow) with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;
2 dc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Now depending on how much more you’ve increased for the base, do the same for this part, ensuring that you have the same number of sts for this top bit as you have for the bottom.
The stitch number should be equal to that on the round before the sc-blo round for the lower part.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Now I’ve decided to make the top portion the same height as the bottom half.. so I’m going to work the same number of rounds.
You see what works for you, and work that top repeat accordingly.
Rounds 6 - 19 : Rep Round 5.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
PART 3 : Eyes : (Make two)
For our eyes, we’ll use a black centre, followed by a white round and then silver (or grey) for the rims of the spectacles.
So get your yarns ready and let’s start.
Start (using black) with a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Fasten off black. Attach white yarn
Round 1 : (using white) 2 hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off white. Attach silver / grey yarn
Round 3 : (using silver) : hdc in the 1st fsc ;
2 hdc in the next hdc ;
(hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We will now make the little ear-strips for our spectacles, so we will continue with dc’s
Row 4 : (using silver) : dc in the 1st 3 hdc. Turn
Row 5 : (using silver) : dc in the 1st 3 dc. Turn
Row 6 : (using silver) : Rep Row 5.
Rep all of this for the second part of our spectacles.
Then join our two spectacle bits at the centre, and join them to the top of the face.
Fasten off yarn and leave a long tail to sew it on.
PART 4 : Little pocket on the front of dungaree
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