STRAPPY
BEACH LADIES TOP - 1
This
is a lovely strappy beach top that looks fantastic. I’m itching to see how this turns out, so
come along and let’s see how we make this lovely creation.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 4 skeins/balls of the superb Sullivan’s (Australia) knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size
: M/L : 34” – 36”
Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This
lovely beach top starts from the centre front and is worked in rounds till
about the armhole. We then work side to
side for the length of the top.
This
is a top down construction.
As
we start centre front and work in circular rows, you must put your work
down each row and ensure that it stays flat and does not buckle.
The
pattern I am working on is a combination of the chart, the yellow inspirational
top and some other tweaks. Come along,
and let’s start.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle.
Pull
lightly to close, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
now on, we will work in rows. We will
not be using all the sc that we’ve just worked into the magic circle.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch
1, 2 dc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 7 sc ;
dc
in the next sc. Turn. Leave rest of sc
unworked.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1stdc ;
(ch
1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 16dc ;
ch
1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch
2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 16 sc ;
ch
2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) till end ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
We will be working a “V”-st from here on, which will be
(dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ; sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk
next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk
the next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk
next 2 dc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in the same dc ;
sk
next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk
next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk
next 2 dc, “V”-st in the last dc + dc in the last dc. Turn.
Small
tweak
: In case you feel that you want a slightly wider and quicker sideways growth,
add a few dc in Row 7 (so 6 instead of 5) in Row 9.
..
and if you add 1 dc, you will need to add a ch 1, between the “V”-sts when
working Row 10
If
you think the shaping is proceeding well, continue with rep of Rows 7 & 8.
Row 9 : Rep
Row 7.
Row 10 : Rep
Row 8.
Row 11 : Rep
Row 7.
Row 12 : dc
in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in the same dc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch
1, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last “V”-st ;
ch
1, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the last dc + dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 13 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk
next 2 dc, 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 14 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, “V”-st in the same dc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch
1, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 4 dc ;
ch
1, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 15 : Rep
Row 13.
Row 16 : sl-st
past the 1st4 dc , sc in the next dc ;
ch
4, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch
2, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 9 dc ;
ch
4, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Turn.
Place
your work on top of a well-fitting top and see if the yoke bit is sufficient.
At this point, if the yoke portion fits, then continue with pattern – else rep
Rows 15 and 16 till you have the yoke needed.
The
other thing that we need to figure out is just where you need to start on the
next row.
In
my case, I will be starting on the 4th “V”-st from end, and working
through till the 4th “V-st from the other end. This will give me the shape for the armhole
and the rest will become the yoke and top of shoulders. Got it?
So
after placing your work on top of your well-fitting top, see which “V”-st works
for you. Re-attach your yarn at that
“V”-st and let’s work on.
Row 17 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk
next 2 dc, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 18 : Rep
Row 14.
Rep
Rows 17 & 18 , increasing 1 dc in Row 17 every alternate row, till you get
the length needed for your top.
What
do I mean by “increasing 1 dc in Row 17 every alternate row”?
Row
17 has 7 dc in the ch-3 sp, but with each row, you may need to increase it to
ensure that it sits flat and stretches across the body of the top.
So
for Row 19 for eg, (which is rep of Row 17), I have worked 8 dc in the ch-3 sp.
This
will mean that in Row 20 (which is rep of Row 18), you will need to work a ch-3
sp between “V”-sts.
All
you need to ensure is that the rows stay flat each time.
So
how do you carry on for the length?
What
I’ve done is keep mapping my crochet top off the well-fitted top and check the
shaping for the armhole. Once the armhole
has been shaped and I have the width of the top, basically continue working Rep
of Rows 17 & 18, without any increases, till you reach the length needed
for your top. Got it?
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Rep
all instructions for the 2nd side of the top as well.
Once
we have done front and back, we will work on the border for both the front and
back continuously.
So
let’s go off and complete the two halves and meet here shortly.
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Did you ever do the instructions for the Border? Do you have a picture of the back of this project?
ReplyDeleteTIA, Janice
Sorry for my delayed response. No, I do not have pictures for the back of this project - and all that I have done is given in the blog post. :)
Delete