STRAPPY
BEACH LADIES TOP - 2
While
I was working on my 1st strappy beach ladies top, I thought that
just working this chart for the yoke bit, would be a great idea too.
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Here are my
pattern notes as I work on my original project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 3.5 skeins of the superb Sullivan’s knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size
: M/L : 34” – 36”
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This
lovely beach top starts from the centre front and is worked in rounds till
about the armhole. We then work side to
side for the length of the top.
This
is a top down construction.
As
we start centre front and work in circular rows, you must put your work
down each row and ensure that it stays flat and does not buckle.
I
have done a similar pattern using ideas from this chart as well as being
inspired by a photograph in an earlier strappy beach top – so do check both out
before you decide which one is yours
Before
I start off with Round 1, a tweak / idea.
We
will not be working/using all stitches from Round 1.
After
I worked 15 sc and reached too far (well, for me anyway) to rip out, I got this
idea – so here goes.
So
Row 2 uses only 9 out of all the stitches that you work in the 1st
round. Depending on how wide a “V” you’d
like for your top, increase the number of stitches. We will leave part of the stitches unworked,
and those stitches will form the centre of your “V”-neckline.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
now on, we will work in rows.
We
will not be using all the sc that we’ve just worked into the magic circle.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch
1, 2 dc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 7 sc ;
dc
in the next sc. Turn.
Leave rest of the sc unworked.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 16 dc ;
ch
1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch
2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) in the next 16 sc ;
ch
2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep
(to) till end ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
We will be working a “V”-st from here on, which will be
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ; sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk
next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk
the next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
From
now on, unless otherwise indicated, we will work all our “V”-sts in the ch-3 sp
of the earlier “V”-st.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last dc ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch
2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last dc ; ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Now
I have worked a ch-3 sp for both Rows 9 & 10.
If
you want your yoke to open out a bit more, work ch-4 sps in Row 10.
Rows 9 & 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last dc ;
ch
3, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 11 : sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sc in the next “V”-st ;
*ch
7, sc in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till the last “V”-st ;
ch
3, sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 12 : sc
in the 1st sc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ;
*9
sc in the next ch-7 sp ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till the last ch-3 sp ;
3
sc in the last ch-3 sp, sc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 13 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 sc, 2 dc in the next sc ;
*ch
3, sk next 4 sc, 2 dc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 2 sc ;
ch
2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the last sc..
Turn.
Row 14 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc
in the next 2 dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3
sp
*sk
next dc, dc in the next dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep
*to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
3
dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 15 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
[ch
2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
*ch
3, sk next 5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 4 dc ;
ch
2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
We
have done one pattern repeat, which will be Rows 14 & 15.
Now
this is when we start our creativity and fun process.
Place
your yoke on top of a top that fits you well – and see how wide across chest
have you reached with your project.
If
you find that you have spanned the chest pretty well, and have also reached
pretty high across the shoulders – (and will only need a short strap to fit the
front and back together), stop increases, and start working on the body of the
top.
In case you need a little more to span across the chest, work rep of Rows 14 & 15.
Once
you have got the width of the chest done (checking it against a well-fitting
top as I always say), mark the “V”-st (from Row 15) that marks the
armhole. Place a marker for both sides
of the top.
You
will now continue rep of Rows 14 & 15 till you have the length needed for
your top.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Rep
all instructions for the 2nd side of the top as well.
Once
we have done front and back, we will work on the border for both the front and
back continuously.
So
let’s go off and complete the two halves and meet here shortly.
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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