Sweet Nothings Crochet: DELICATE SHELLED CHEVRON YOKE

crochet yoke pattern, crochet chevron yoke pattern

DELICATE SHELLED CHEVRON YOKE

Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet’s free patterns blog.

Today, yet another plain t-shirt / top is getting a D.I.Y-ed to jazz it up just a little bit. I found this really interesting chevron plus shelled pattern as, and I plan on making this as a yoke.

Here’s a tweak (or an idea?). I just have sufficient yarn for a yoke, so that’s what I’m making – but as I reached the end of my creation, I found that this would make a really lovely top too. So, if you’re ok with a straight finish to the armholes, then hey .. here’s the idea – go ahead and make this into a top. I think this will make an absolutely awesome top.. chevrons n shells always do.

For the sleeves then, you could just go around and add a row of shells or “V’-sts (or maybe the shells from the body of the top), neatly spaced and that’d look super – as well being a neat finish to the armholes. Experiment and be different

Who knows.. I may make the top too someday.. so let’s see if you beat me to it. Do remember to tag me if you do make it, so I can see your beautiful creation too.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. Oh, and this is the photograph that got me started on this journey.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used local lovely Indian light polyester silk (lace weight) yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : The yarn I have used is also known as the Kamal kadai embroidery thread. You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton as well. The yarn I’ve used is the polyester light cone yarn, (not the purse yarn)

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

ch(s) : chain(s ch-sp : chain space

sp(s) : space(s) rep : Repeat

hk : hook yo : Yarn over

sk : Skip lp(s) : Loop(s)

st(s) : Stitch(es)

fdc : Foundation double crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)

Stitches used : Using US terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is a straight simple pattern.

We work one side of the yoke at a time.

The pattern is the same for both front and back.

The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the neckline.

Our first row is worked for half the round chest / bust measure.

Now you can be adventurous and make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).

I am going to work all the way straight past the armhole and neckline and work the decrease for the shoulders. So let’s start.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 13 + 1.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 13 + 1 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.

In this pattern we use a Special trc 4-tog (starting and ending of our rows) and a Special 7-trc tog that is worked over 7 sts. Check the ‘how-to’ for this stitch.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Trc 7-tog : Triple / treble 7-together : *yo two times, insert hk into st ;

yo and pull up a lp ; (2 lps on hk) ;

[yo 2 times, insert hk into the next st ; draw through 2 lps] (3 lps on hk) ;

rep [to] 5 more times ; yo and draw through all 8 lps on hk.

One Special trc 7-tog complete.

Special Trc 4-tog : Special Triple / treble 4-together :

*yo two times, insert hk into st ; yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ;

[yo 2 times, insert hk into the next st ; draw through 2 lps] (3 lps on hk) ;

rep [to] 2 more times ; yo and draw through all 5 lps on hk.

One Special trc 4-tog complete.

Row 1 : trc in the 1^st fsc ;

*(ch 1, trc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 fsc) ;

rep *to* till the last 4 fsc ;

rep (to) 4 times in the last 4 fsc.

In the next row, we will work a dc 2-tog over 2 sts skipping the Special trc 7-tog.

Now usually when we work a dc 2-tog, we work over 2 dc’s.

In this pattern though, on either side of our Special trc 7-tog, we have two ch-1 sps.

So we work our dc 2-tog over these two ch-1 sps each time.

Here’s how we do that.

We work the 1^st leg of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp just before the Special trc 7-tog,

sk the Special trc 7-tog and work the 2^nd leg of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp just after the Special trc 7-tog.

Easy enough, right? Now let’s name this our Special dc 2-tog.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st trc ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next trc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

*[skipping the next Special trc 7-tog,

Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;

{dc in the next trc ; rep (to) 2 times} ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep {to} once ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last trc 4-tog. Turn.

Row 3 : trc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc)* ;

rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;

Special trc over the last 4 dc.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 (ending with Row 2) till you have a yoke (or top) of the length you desire. So let’s carry on till we reach the neckline level and work our shoulder decreases.

Now here’s where calculations come in.

Fold your work in half and figure out the two corners for the neckline.

Place markers there.

We will use these markers for our first row and will work from one armhole corner to the 1^st marker and back.

Before you put your markers down, let’s also see our pattern.

We have these two sets of pattern stitches – one is our Special trc 7-tog and then we have these 6 dcs with ch-1 sps separating them.

So our decrease will work till the last Special trc 7-tog before marker, and then we decrease in the dc’s in between.

Let’s get on with it, shall we?

Note that we are probably going to be at different points on our neckline and shoulder, so use the instructions below as a reference, and work as many stitches as you would need to along the neckline edge.

The armhole edge stays in a straight line, so that end, your start stitches stay steady. If you have a different count along the neckline edge (from the instructions below), do not worry, as long as you are following pattern, and have the edge coming along well. Do note that you could write down your pattern difference, so that it will be easy when you are working the other side of the shoulder as well as the back of the yoke / top neckline.

Shoulder decrease :

Shoulder Row 1 : (Armhole end) :

trc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

Special trc 4-tog over the next 4 sts. Turn.

Shoulder Row 2 : (Neckline end) :

dc in the 1^st trc 4-tog ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next trc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

[skipping the next Special trc 7-tog,

Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;

{dc in the next trc ; rep (to) 2 times} ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep {to} once ;

rep [to] once ;

dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Shoulder Row 3 : trc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

[ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc] ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

sk last st. Turn.

Shoulder Row 4 : dc in the 1^st trc ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next trc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[skipping the next Special trc 7-tog, Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;

{dc in the next trc ; rep (to) 2 times} ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep {to} once ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Shoulder Row 5 : trc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

[ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc] ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your shoulder straps are done.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach your yarn at the marker or the mirrored stitch for the other side of your shoulder straps and continue all the way to complete this end as well.
Once done, fasten off and weave in ends.

We’ve completed one side of the yoke (or top).

Mirror these instructions for the other side of the yoke or top, deciding only how deep you would like your neckline for that section.

Join both shoulders on completion, and sides (if you’ve made a top).

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is !

Or if you have decided to make this a full top, then that’s even more beautiful, isn’t it?

You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!

Finishing :

Our finishing here involves attaching the shoulders and the sides as well, if needed.

As the edges of the neckline and base of yoke (or top) are nice and wavy , I’d like to leave it like that. You could, however, decide to do a sc or hdc in each stitch all around, just to strengthen that edge.

Then you need to weave in and tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

If you’re working a yoke, then attach the yoke to the t-shirt, and you could then cut away the t-shirt bits from inside of the yoke, so that you can show some skin and of course your lovely crochet work out too.

and just because I think the recipient looks super happy and super beautiful, I'm gonna photo bomb you just a bit..

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html