ROSÉ PINK SHELLED BABY DRESS
#Blogaday 41/365
This pattern has been on my “to-do” list for a
while, and somewhere along the line, I think I forgot about it.. that said, my
darn ‘to do’ list is unending and constantly growing longer, so I should
forgive my forgetfulness too ;)
Anyway, just the other day, someone shared this inspiration
on Facebook, and I remembered that I *still* needed to get this done ! No time
as good as the present.. so here we go.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 1 skein of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level :
Intermediate
Size : Length
: 15.5” ; Chest / Breadth : 19”
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet dc
: Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp : space rep
: Repeat
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I do not claim this to be my pattern , but here are my pattern notes as I make my own original project
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here
today. With
this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a yoke from the round
chest, past the armholes to the shoulders.
We will then come back to the same foundation
start row, and work the shells for the lower part of the dress.
Remember that you need to work a back placket
opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open all the way to the
start row for a younger child. That said, you will then be working one piece
for the front and two halves for the back.
Part 1 : Front (Make one piece)
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start with fsc in multiples of 6 + 3 (for half round chest measure). Turn.
In the following row, we will
be working a dc 2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Now usually, when we work a dc
2-tog, we work it over 2 sts.
In this
pattern, we will be working it over 3 sts, skipping a st in the middle.
This means that we will work
the first leg of the dc 2-tog in the 1st st ; sk the next st, and
work the 2nd leg of the dc-2 tog in the next st, which means a total
of 3 sts for one dc 2-tog. This gives us is a wider “V” pattern, which looks
awesome.
Let’s call this our “Special dc
2-tog”
If you find this stitch uncomfortable,
or difficult, may I suggest you work a dc 3-tog over the 3 sc.
You will get a neat diamond stitch which will
also look pretty darn awesome.. trust me!
Row 1 : dc in the 1st 3 fsc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over
the next 3 fsc ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
STOP : Before continuing, check
that the two rows that you’ve started with are of the width needed for the
child’s half round measure.
Sometimes, a
pattern will ‘pull’ and decrease the length of the first foundation row, so
check now please.
We will start a minor decrease
along armhole to shape it in the following
rows.
For this we will use a
regular, usual dc 2-tog to decrease.
Row 3 : (Decrease row) :
dc
in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over
the next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* last 2 dc ; dc in the
last 2 dc.
Row 5 : (Decrease row) :
dc
2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts
;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
We will now divide for the
neck.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc.
Turn. (3 sets of 3-dc)
Row 7 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
Special dc 2-tog over the next
3 sts ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog
;
*sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the
next 3 dc ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last
dc.
Turn. (3 sets of 3-dc)
Row 9 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
dc in the next dc ;
sk next dc,
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3
dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last
dc.
Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)
Row 11 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 12 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last
dc.
Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)
Row 13 : (Decrease row) :
dc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;
ch 1,
dc in the next 3 dc* ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the
next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2
dc. Turn.
Row 14 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the
Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last
dc.
Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)
Row 15 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the
next 3 sts ;
ch 1, dc in the last 3 dc.
Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
You have completed one side of
the front yoke.
Re-attach your yarn for the second side of yoke on Row 6, and rep/ mirror instructions for Rows 6 – 14.
Once done, fasten off and weave
in ends.
You have completed the front
yoke.
Part 2 : Back
There are two ways to work the
back.
You can either work exactly
like you have the front, in one piece, but keep the back neckline a little
higher. (This is what the designer has done per chart)
May I suggest that you work the
neckline a little higher for the back.
As per the chart, the designer has worked till Row 9 and then divided
for the neck.
The other way is to divide the
back into two parts and work a button placket all the way from the chest to the
top, keeping the back neck all the way to the shoulders. (This is what I have
chosen to do)
If you decide to do this, then
the simplest way to count off your stitches for the back is to work it off the
front. So divide your front in half, and
see how many 3-dc sets you have (not the ones that form the “V” but the ones
that are dc on dc).
As we start and end with 3 dc
on the 1st row, it works out best, if you are able to get the
same 3 dc in the middle back as well.
However, this may not always
work out. You may have a “V”-st at the
centre, so all you will need to do is work the 3 dc after that, and allow the
two sides of your back to overlap on these 3 sts to get the width right. Make sense?
So go ahead and divide your
front, work out the number of stitches needed for back and work the start row,
and then Rows 1 -14 for the back as well.
May I suggest that you work the
neckline a little higher for the back.
As per the chart, the designer has worked till Row 9 and then divided
for the neck.
Note though, you will be
working the decreases for the armhole side, no matter which row you are
dividing for the neckline.
When you finish off, you can decide which method you are using to join
the shoulders, and join them before you leave your work.
Good. Choose your method and
work the back. We’ll meet in just a bit to work on the skirt portion of our
beautiful dress.
Part 3 : Yoke finishing
Before we start off on the
skirt portion, let’s finish off the yoke completely.
I hope you have attached the
shoulders for the yoke. If you have made
two back pieces (as I have), then join them at the bottom so that you will not be
confused when working on the skirt portion of the dress.
Let us now work a quick border
around the neck and armhole, and then join the sides up as well (not
necessarily in this order) ;)
So keeping the two sides
together, mark out the armhole requirement and join the sides.
For the border, let us first run a round of sc all around the neck and armhole areas in preparation for a small pattern.
Border pattern :
Row 1 : Run a round of sc
all around the neckline and armhole.
For an estimate of how many sts
to work all around, may I suggest you work 2 sc in each vertical bar of a dc ,
and then when you come around to the flat sections, you just work a sc in each
st and ch-1 sp all around till the end.
Our stitch count is 3, so try to see that you can get a multiple of 3
Row 2 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
I’d say that 3 rounds should
suffice for a cute border.
So I’m going to make the next row the final one, and
add a picot in the centre of the ch-3 sp.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
We’ll work a ch-3 picot, which
is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-3 sp ;
sc + picot in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc + picot in the next
ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat all these instructions for both the armholes as well.
Great job! We’re now all set to work our skirt.
Part 4 : Skirt portion of the dress
Our stitch count for the skirt
portion is in multiples of 12.
So here are a few ideas for the
skirt portion. We need to get the stitch
count right, but you could also decide on how frilly you want the skirt, and
add stitches to the foundation row of the yoke in preparation.
The skirt portion is worked in
rounds off the bottom of the first foundation row of the yoke. So in case you have worked two back portions,
please ensure that you have attached that bit up first.
To start, let us run a round of
sc all around the foundation row, and work it such that you get the stitch count
in multiples of 12.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the
next sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, sc in the
next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st to the 1st dc ; sc in the same dc
;
*[(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, dc in the same dc ;
rep (to) 3 times] ;
ch 1,
sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In our following round, we will
once again be using a dc 2-tog.
However, this time we will be using it
as a decorative stitch and so we will work both the legs of the dc 2-tog in the
same dc.
This will make it a
thicker puffier stitch and give it the pattern we are looking for.
Feel free to use a dc 3-tog if
you think you want more accent or a thicker stitch (especially if you are using
a thinner yarn)
Round 4 : sl-st to the 1st dc ;
dc 2-tog in the same
dc ;
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next
dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sc on the 1st dc 2-tog ;
*[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in
the next dc 2-tog] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next sc and ch-2 sps, sc in
the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : sl-st to the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*(dc ; ch 1, dc all in the same
ch-5 sp) ;
ch 1, 8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 1, rep (to) once in the next
ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
Round 7 : sl-st past the 1st dc and ch-1 sp into the next
dc ;
sc in the same dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
ch 4, sk next 4 dc and two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : dc 2-tog on the 1st dc ;
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog on the next
dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 9 : sc on the 1st dc 2-tog ;
*[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in
the next dc 2-tog] ;
(ch 5, sk next two dc 2-togs, sc in the next dc
2-tog) ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, sk next
sc and ch-2 sps, sc in the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We’ve completed one pattern
repeat.
Put your work down and measure
how many inches you get lengthwise from Round 6 to 9.
Rep Rounds 6 to 9 according to
the length you need, ending with a Round 8.
Last Round : sl-st into the ch-2 sp ; sc in the same ch-2 sp ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m
sure you’ll agree.
Edited to add : You may notice that I have finished with Round 7, and that’s
because I was a teensy bit short on yarn, but as you can see, it makes no
difference to the pattern at all. So go
for it!
Final touch : I’ve added one small rose and a satin ribbon. The satin ribbon is of course, store bought..
and for the small rose, check out this link and you’ll get not only the rose
but also some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for
hair.. so have fun.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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Have a great day and see you soon.
I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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