Sweet Nothings Crochet: CARRE MOTIF TOP

CARRE MOTIF TOP

This is a lacy motif top that looks easy breezy super delicate top and it looks easy enough. There are two parts to this pattern - and believe me, it looks a lot more complicated that it is. That said, do check skill level given.

With this project, I am giving you tons of ideas to make several projects – so come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 250 gms of Patons Regal 4-ply knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced.

You must know how to attach granny squares while working continuously. Please check all the links given below.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

This is not my pattern – just my original work and notes as I work on my project. I was inspired by the information from https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4797953/post211142418/.

Please visit this page for the chart.

For this pattern we have two sets of patterns – a motif pattern for the top of the project and a simpler filigree pattern for the lower half.

So I am just going to work the pattern for the motifs and then give you ideas on how to work the lower part of the project.

You can decide how long you want the motifs to come down your project or if you want to make the motifs all the way down the front and make the back all filigree or you want to make both front and back all motifs all the way.

One simple blog and so many ideas – go figure !

We are not shaping armhole spaces for this pattern – we are going to work two rectangles from the base of top to the shoulders. After we finish our rectangles for the body, we will make motifs for the sleeves that we will then continuously join along the armhole straight edge.

Neckline shaping is also kept simple and square – along the sides of the motif. If you decide that you want a circular neckline, you will add on your motifs, and then shape later.

Check neckline shaping ideas given here.

For neckline : We will work a square neckline to start. Once you reach the neck level, you will work only as many motifs as needed for your shoulder ‘straps’, and then continue to attach motifs for the back of the top. All motifs will be attached in one continuous movement.

You can make this to any size. Check how to after you have made your first motif.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Motif Pattern

Start : with a magic circle and work 1 dc ;

(ch 2, dc) in the same magic circle ;

rep (to) 7 times ;

ch 2 and join to the 1^st dc. (8 dc , 8 ch-2 sps)

Round 1 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp , 4 dc in the same ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

ch 2, and join to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

(ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 8, dc in the next 4 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 8, and join to the 1^st dc.

and that’s it ! That’s our motif pattern done !

With the next motif, you will join as you work Round 2. You will be using the ch-3 and ch-8 sps to join. You will join two motifs ch-3 to ch-3 sp, and ch-8 to ch-8 sp.

How to join the motifs :

Round 2A for joining : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

(ch 1, sc in the ch-3 sp of the earlier/adjoining motif ;

ch 1, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 4, sc in the ch-8 sp of the earlier/adjoining motif ;

ch 4, dc in the next 4 dc)

Note : You will work (to) for as many joins as needed. So for the first two motifs, you will join only along one side, but as your project grows, you will need to join along two or three sides as needed.

How do I make this to any size : Very simple

1. Make your first motif and measure the square you have created.

2. Keep a well-fitting top of the person for whom this is intended, or her body measurements ready.

3. Calculate how many motifs you will need across for half the (largest) body measure. So say each motif is 2” x 2” and you need a bust size of 36”, you will need 9 squares = 18” (half of bust 36”)

4. Calculate how many motifs you will need for the length of the top. So working with the above calculation, each square will give you 2” in length and you just make as many as you need for the length. You will need to decide (as mentioned above) if you want this just for the yoke or whole front etc.

5. Once you’ve made one rectangle (for either front or back) and reached the neckline portion, you will reduce the number of motifs that you have worked across. You will work only as many motifs as needed for your shoulder. The centre bit that you do not work on will become the neckline opening. Check photo below.

6. You will continue working on the reduced number of motifs till you have completed the front and back neckline in one continuous movement

7. You will then attach motifs again for the full back portion mirroring how you started with the front.

8. Once you have finished the top and bottom yoke, work on the motifs for the sleeves. You will work as many motifs as needed for the length of your sleeve. Mirror the same number for the second sleeve as well.

9. You should now have a shape similar to the photo below. Note that you will work as many motifs as you need and not copy my motif number. I have worked as many as I need using the yarn/hook I have for the size I need. Got it?

10. Great. You have now finished the yoke and sleeves and we will work on the simple pattern for the lower part of the top.

Lower portion of our top :

Re-attach your yarn in the centre of the corner ch-8 sp ;

dc in that same centre point of the same ch-8 sp ; ch 2, dc in the same ch-8 sp ;

*ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, dc in the corner st (which is where you have joined two motifs) ;

ch 2, dc in the next ch-4 sp (which is half the ch-8 sp just before the next 4-dc set)* ; rep *to* till end,

ending with a dc in the center of the last ch-8 sp. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

And this is basically your pattern for the lower half of the top.

Here’s where your creativity , individuality and crochet skills come into play.

1. You can work the lower portion rep Row 1 all the way to the end ; or

2. You can throw in a pattern every few rows or every few sts. If you decide to add a filigree pattern, all you need to do is work 2 dc in the ch-2 sp between 2 dc. So you will work dc ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc. So every few sts, you will get a set of 4 dc.

3. For the next row, you will just sk those 2 dc in the centre and you’ll be back to the ‘pattern’ of Row 1.

4. Depending on how much yarn, time and creativity you have – go for it J

5. For the final 2 rows, I’d suggest you work a full dc pattern – so for the 2^nd last row work dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp to end ; and then in the last row just work a dc in each dc till end. This will give a neat finish to the end.

6. To finish off, work either a row of sc in each dc till end or work crab / reverse single crochet stitch

7. Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Joining :

We have already joined the shoulders while we made our yoke. So you just need to run one join line along the sides to finish this off.

Neckline shaping ideas :

If you opt for the square neckline we’ve created, yaay. Your work is nearly done.

1) I’d suggest that you run a row of sc first though. For this, work the sc exactly the way we did when we joined the yoke to the lower portion of the top. All you change is work an sc instead of a dc.

2) I then suggest you run one more row of sc or crab stitch all around to get the neckline nice and flat.

In case you want a rounded neckline – you will first work the row of sc, and then identify the four corners of your neckline – two each in front and back. Mark the stitch that is bang centre. Ensure that you have the same number of stitches in between for back and front and for both sides.

To get the neckline rounded, you will need to work a sc 3-tog using that marked centre st as the centre stitch of your sc 3-tog. This means that you will work 1 sc in the st before marker, then the marked st and the st after marker and these 3 sc will make your sc 3-tog. Got it?

You will do this 4 times – once at each corner.

To get it neater and more pronounced, repeat this once more. This time, the sc 3-tog will be the marked st. Got it?

Yes, this is what makes this an advanced skill level. In case this is too confusing, just opt for the square neckline.

Sleeve finishing ideas :

We have worked our sleeves when working the yoke, and then attached sides to get a beautiful finished sleeve. May I suggest that you work at least 2 rows of sc all around to get a good finish.

Work exactly as you have for the neckline and get a neat tight finished look for your sleeves too.

More fun & interesting finishing ideas :

In case you want an interesting finish all round, work a picot for the base, neckline and sleeve base. I’d suggest working a ch-3 picot (which is ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hook).

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Have fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html