Sweet Nothings Crochet: LACY TOP or SARI BLOUSE

LACY TOP or SARI BLOUSE

This is a lovely lacy vest that can be slipped on top of just about anything. It is a pretty pattern and I’d say it can be attempted by almost anyone .. so come along and let’s see how we make this lovely creation.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Baroque knitting cotton with a 1.75 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

This lovely creation was shared on Facebook recently, and I was soon asked if I could re-create this wonderful project. I have made my project into a sari blouse. I think it will make a wonderful crop top and a gorgeous night wear project too.

Create something unique and be wowed by your awesomeness ;) !

see how lovely it looks as a sari blouse

As always, please read through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook. Enjoy crafting this absolutely stunning creation today.

Our pattern here is a lot like the diagonal box or diagonal block stitch. I say “a lot like” because in all the videos I have seen for the above two stitches, there is a prominent dc that shows between our diagonal boxes / blocks. In the vest, as you will see, there are no dc’s in the main part.. so here is an attempt to try and recreate this genius pattern.

The way this stitch is worked makes this an Advanced skill level.

We start our project from the bottom up – from the base of the top to the shoulders. So our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist measure. Remember that you need to check both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.

Part 1 : Front and back

Make two

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 4 + 1 for half the round waist / chest measure. Turn.

From the very first row, we will work the diagonal block / box stitch.

Before we head off, let me try and explain what we are going to do.
We will work a 4-dc set as a block.

For this, we will first work a set of 4 dc,

TURN and then work dc in each of these 4 dc to complete one block.

Now as usual, we start our work from the right hand side, and head sideways to the left. But with each little block we will work back and forth to complete the block, and then move left (as we usually do) again to the next block.

Hence at the centre of the next set of instructions, there will be a TURN and then as usual there is a Turn at the end of the row as well. Got it?

In this pattern you could use either a hdc or dc.

I have chosen to work with hdc to get a smaller diamond pattern, and will write this accordingly.

Work a dc in the place of hdc, if you want your project to progress faster.

Please note that there were no charts that I found with the top.

These are charts that I "thought" would look like the stitch and I have been inspired by these charts to create my original pattern and product.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Row 2 : trc in the 1^stfdc ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 fdc, sc in the next fdc ;

[TURN (and work along the ch-3 just made), 3 hdc in the ch-3 sp ;

TURN (and working back along these 3 hdc) hdc in the next 3 hdc]* ;

rep *to* till last fdc ;

trc in the last fdc. Turn

Great.. you have successfully completed the main part of the pattern.

Now in the following row, there’s a small twist to the pattern.

Where do we place the sc for the next diagonal box ? That’s the question and tricky part.

So let’s get this out of the way. See the box.. the top corner / apex is where have the 1^st dc of the 2^nd row on that box...?

Identify and mark that st.

We will use the corner of that stitch for the next set of sc.

Our box st stays the same.. there’s a ch 4, an sc and then 2 sets of 4-dc to get the diagonal box.. all the same. OK?

Row 3 : trc in the 1^st trc ;

*ch 3, sc in the corner of the box ;

[TURN (and work along the ch-3 just made), 3 hdc in the ch-3 sp ;

TURN (and working back along these 3 hdc), hdc in the next 3 hdc]* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

trc in the last trc. Turn

And that’s basically our pattern for the top.

So what would you like to do? Choices yet again…

You could rep Row 3 for the whole top and believe me, you will be hopping along with this pattern in just a bit.. and the whole top will look splendid with this pattern…

OR you could do what the designer has done, and break the pattern a bit with this little lacy bit.

Now we may all be working different rows, so just for convenience, I am going to continue numbering without a break. Please do not get confused.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, dc in the corner of the box* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

trc in the last dc. Turn

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next sc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc ; dc in the next the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

Note : At the end of this row, you may not have an even finish at the end.. i.e you may not end with a ch-2 sp and then 2 dc at the end. You may have 3 dc.. it does not matter. This is just a break in the pattern.. and those last stitches will get neatly lost in the side join anyway!

However, this makes a slight difference in your start for the next row. So in case you end with 3 dc at the end, you just start with 3 dc and then work 2 dc in each ch-sp and dc in the next 2 dc. Easy enough? Let’s get to it.

Row 7 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

*ch 2, sk the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 dc ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn

Once again if you have a different number of start dc, do not worry. We aer just working a full row of dc.

Row 8 : dc in the 1^st4 dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

Over the next 2 following rows, I am going to use a combination of 3 hdc and then hdc 3-tog to form a diamond. Now here’s another tweak.

I have a feeling that the designer has used the same diagonal box stitch that we used before but using a smaller st this time for this next section. i.e I think the designer has worked a 3-sc set box in this section. I am not sure.

If you find the hdc and hdc 3-tog difficult, please use 3 dc followed by dc 3-tog over the 3 dc.

So you decide what stitch you want to work for this section…

and it does not make any difference to the pattern at all. This is just a break section.. so go crazy and create.

Note though, that I will write instructions like I have worked it.

Row 9 : hdc in the 1^st dc ;

* sk next 3 dc, 3 hdc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;

sk next 3 dc, hdc in the last dc. Turn

Row 10 : hdc in the 1^sthdc ;

*ch 3, hdc 3-tog over the next 3 hdc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

ch 3, hdc in the last hdc. Turn

Row 11 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

*3 hdc on the next hdc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* till the last hdc ;

hdc in the last hdc. Turn

Rows 12 - 19 : Rep Rows 9 & 10

Check Note below.

Row 20 : Rep Row 9

Note : So we have total of 6 rows of diamonds.

IF you want less (depending on the length of your vest etc), reduce the number of repeats.

Row 21 : dc in the 1^st hdc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last hdc. Turn

Remember as before, if you had a different number when we’d made this border before, you’re going to have to copy that pattern again now. First we’ll rep Row 8, and then Row 7. Got it?

Row 22 : dc in the 1^st4 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last 6 dc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last 4 dc. Turn

Row 23 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

*ch 2, sk the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 dc ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn

Row 24 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

We will once again rep our diagonal block / box pattern

Row 25 : trc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;

[TURN (and work along the ch-3 just made), 3 hdc in the ch-3 sp ;

TURN (and working back along these 3 hdc) hdc in the next 3 hdc]* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

trc in the last dc. Turn

Row 26 : trc in the 1^st trc ;

*ch 3, sc in the corner of the box ;

[TURN (and work along the ch-3 just made), 3 hdc in the ch-3 sp ;

TURN (and working back along these 3 hdc), hdc in the next 3 hdc]* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

trc in the last trc. Turn

Rep Rows 25 & 26 till you reach the armhole level.

Given below are ideas for how to decrease and shape for the armhole.

Part 2 : Armhole Decrease ideas

Place a marker in the 4^thdiagonal box on either side from the end.

To start, re-fasten your yarn at the 1^st marker and work the pattern all the way till the 2^nd marker.

This means that you will work a trc in that 4^th diagonal box corner and work all the way to the end, and work a trc in the 4^th diagonal corner box marker at the other end. OK?

Continue to work the next few pattern rows for the armhole from one end to the other keeping the armhole shape.

Now here’s where you need to make a calculation. In the armhole section (per the designer’s photograph), there are several rows of the diagonal block stitch as well as the hdc 3-tog pattern we have just made.

So here’s what I did.

1) I measured the width of the hdc 3-tog pattern, i.e between the two all-dc rows (Rows 5 – 21). This section is part of the armhole.

2) Decide how loose / deep you want the armhole and reduce this measurement from the round armhole measure.

3) Calculate how many inches you gain with a row of the diagonal box / block stitch

4) Working both these calculations in , work the diagonal block stitch and then rep Rows 5 – 21 and all this till you reach the neckline level.

5) If you look at the photograph, you will see that after the armhole decrease, the designer has worked 7 rows of the diagonal box / block stitch and then one set of all-dc to all-dc

Part 3 : Neckline Decrease ideas

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1) Decide how deep and how wide you want your neckline

2) Place a marker on either side to mark the width of neck. For this, fold your project in half, find the centre and then place 2 markers at equal distances away from the centre which will be the side markers.

3) Our pattern here is just simple dc ; ch 1, dc all the way to the end, so this will be worked from one armhole to the 1^st marker and back to the armhole.

4) You will continue this all the way to the shoulder level.

5) Once you finish one side, re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker (for neckline) and then work all the way to the shoulder

Part 4 : Pattern for the shoulder portion

So after you have finished the all-dc row, the top of the vest is a really simple one and I’m going to write this down quickly for you. Remember that this will be worked after the all-dc row ; and just for convenience, I will call these Rows 1 & 2.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

After this lovely combination of patterns, we’ve finished one side of your lovely vest. Rep all these instructions for the other side of the vest as well.

Part 5 : Finishing

So you have successfully finished two halves of your vest. Using one of the joining methods giving above, join the shoulders and sides of this vest.

I have then run a round of hdc all around the armhole and neckline.

And you have a fantastic new top all ready to go.

I enjoyed making and writing up this fantastic top pattern, and I know you did too. Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html